I'm a Woodmizer fan, having owned an LT40 (34" x 21' capacity) since 1991. They make an electric motor version, and IF you don't plan to move it and have power source, I'd sure go that route. The gas engine on mine is the worst part of it (not that it's that bad). I also would NOT go to the expense of a hydraulic mill unless A: You plan to go on the road with it (the hydraulic loading feature would be handy) B: You plan to saw commercially. I've sawed probably close to a million board feet on my mill in 29 years and never really had the need for hydraulics....more cost and more maintenance.
As for a kiln....I air dry my lumber for 4-6 months per inch thickness, which will work fine for any type of framing lumber. IF I need it for cabinet type lumber, AFTER it has air dried to around 20%, I'll move it into my kiln.
I built a dehumidifier kiln in my shop that hold about 1000 bdft and uses an old 20,000 BTU window AC for the heat/drying. The room is 7x14 with a 7'6" ceiling. Inside is OSB with a couple coats of aluminized mobile home roof paint for a good vapor barrier. The window AC just sits on a shelf inside so the scrap heat off the back heats the room (it will hit 135 degrees peak). As the room heats up, moisture is driven off the wood, hits the cold coil on the front, condenses and runs in a bucket. The first week or so, it will take a 5 gallon bucket of water off wood that is already at 20% or less ! After another week, that will taper off to about nothing, and checking the wood with a meter, I'll have 6-8% lumber.
The switches on the left side control various outlets inside: Lights, receptacle for a fan to circulate air inside, and another for a small electric space heater....which is needed to get the room 'started' if I'm using it in the winter. Once the room hits mid 70's, the AC unit will run, and the scrap heat off the AC is all that is needed....by the 2nd day, it will be 110 or so in the room....and continues to build as the wood heats up.
The window AC is one I got for free from somebody that was converting to central air. The first one had R12 in it, and worked great for years until the compressor died. So I found another big ole free dog, but it had R22 freon in it.....and is NOT meant to run above about 110 or so. Once the room hits that temp, the head pressure gets to be too much, and the AC shuts down. Fortunately, I had a buddy in the AC business, and he replace the R22 with some recovered R12 he had, and now it works fine again.
