Snow SECRETS TO USING A SNOW BLADE

[Chilly807]

I think you're right James, the R4 tires are normally on welded one-piece rims and aren't adjustable without spacers. I notice a big difference in the 3400 with them adjusted all the way "wide".
I have R1's. Last year they were set as they came from the factory, which was with the inner "dish" out, and the lugs on the rim itself on the inside of the dish. I switched the rears side to side and put the lugs on the outside of the dish, added about 4 inches to the tractor width and a ton of stability. Before changing them, even backing over an ice ridge was enough to activate the "pucker factor" for me.

The 7 foot blade would be a better choice for snow, I have a 6 foot blade myself. For moving dirt , I think the 6 foot is a good match for the tractor power and traction.

One thing you can do with the shorter blade is to offset the blade to one side as far as the sway chains/turnbuckles will allow. Some blades let you move the whole blade to one side (true offset), but I cheat and simply set the sway chains to angle the whole blade to one side. I have mine adjusted about 8-10 inches to the right, so it will wing the snow further out on that side. It doesn't quite cover the left tire track when it's set like that, but I rarely take a full width cut except on the first pass through anyway.

Ordinarily I try to put the centerline of the tractor on the ridge from the last pass, break it down with the bucket if I have to. At a 35-40* angle you don't get much spillage off the leading edge of the plow that way. I normally plow going ahead only, use reverse and the back of the blade for tidying up.

Sean

 

[Oldchuck]

No seatbelt with the ROPS down, you want to get away from the tractor if it rolls in that condition. In all truth though, unless you're working somewhere that has limited overhead clearance, the ROPS should be up and locked, and your seatbelt ON. Snow clearing is particularly dangerous for rollovers, since ditches and other hazards are harder to see, you're often working from memory as to exactly where they are.

Sean

I know you're always supposed to fasten your seat belt but when I blow snow I just can't do it. I ain't as agile as I used to be and snow blowing to the rear requires constant and quick attention shifts to rear and front and both sides. I just can't do it with a belt on. So I live dangerously.

Same goes for pushing a blade to the rear I suppose, except you don't have to deal with that constant, blinding spray of snow.

I've thought about attaching a big rear view mirror so I don't have to twist so much. I've even thought about a rear TV monitor set up. But the problem I have with those ideas is the same problem I have with my glasses or goggles. After about two minutes of white-out spray from the blower I'm totally blinded by crusted up or fogged up snow and ice.

 

[Nature Girl]

Yes, your detailed instructions will help me look at the set up with new eyes and try to make some adjustments. Fortunately we did not get the huge bank of snow that was anticipated so my panic has lessoned. I certainly would rather be on the safe side and make sure my installation is right.

I still need to sit on the tractor a bit just to warm the seat and make some tracks in the snow while I attempt to move a few smaller cedar logs we are ready to hew.

With appreciation!

 

[Chilly807]

I know you're always supposed to fasten your seat belt but when I blow snow I just can't do it. I ain't as agile as I used to be and snow blowing to the rear requires constant and quick attention shifts to rear and front and both sides. I just can't do it with a belt on. So I live dangerously.

Same goes for pushing a blade to the rear I suppose, except you don't have to deal with that constant, blinding spray of snow.

I've thought about attaching a big rear view mirror so I don't have to twist so much. I've even thought about a rear TV monitor set up. But the problem I have with those ideas is the same problem I have with my glasses or goggles. After about two minutes of white-out spray from the blower I'm totally blinded by crusted up or fogged up snow and ice.

You're not the only one that doesn't use the belt, Chuck. I'm as guilty as anybody, although I always put the ROPS up.

Sean

 

[Travelover]

One trick I use in really deep snow is to plow in reverse with the back blade in the straight (no angle) position. I then plow in a "Y" configuration, first pushing the snow to the left in an arc, then the right, alternating down the driveway. Once you have done this the length of the driveway, you can go back and clean it up using the angled blade and moving forward. Be careful pushing snow in reverse because you can bend the 3 point arms or break the turnbuckles if you whack something solid. :ashamed:

If the snow is deep, but not excessive, I adjust the blade to a tight (more acute) angle and plow in a forward direction. For lighter snow I use a wider (less acute) angle on the blade. I also keep the FEL full of packed snow for more traction on the front wheels.

 

[Ford tractor]

[

I think you're right James, the R4 tires are normally on welded one-piece rims and aren't adjustable without spacers. I notice a big difference in the 3400 with them adjusted all the way "wide".
I have R1's. Last year they were set as they came from the factory, which was with the inner "dish" out, and the lugs on the rim itself on the inside of the dish. I switched the rears side to side and put the lugs on the outside of the dish, added about 4 inches to the tractor width and a ton of stability. Before changing them, even backing over an ice ridge was enough to activate the "pucker factor" for me.


Sean

Actually, "most" industrial wheels are width adjustable. The L3700 seems to not be, it's a pretty small tractor with just 19.5" wheels and it's an economy model. That really limits the machine, imho. Since there is a reported 1" clearance side to side, now there is no chance of getting chains on it.

 

[TDVT]

I have R1's. Last year they were set as they came from the factory, which was with the inner "dish" out, and the lugs on the rim itself on the inside of the dish. I switched the rears side to side and put the lugs on the outside of the dish, added about 4 inches to the tractor width and a ton of stability. Before changing them, even backing over an ice ridge was enough to activate the "pucker factor" for me.

Boy that's good to hear.

I have Ag's on my 3400 as well & I have never felt all that confident about it's stability. Our 8N feels much more solid. I have thought about swapping around the track-width but have been too lazy. Thanks for the push.

 

[mostly_gas]

Don't make the tire chains a high priority. I have not used chains since going to 4WD 15+ years ago and have not had a problem. I have R1 (Ag) tires and they are not loaded. I cleaned the last round of snow and sleet off without putting on the wheel weights. I live in the same general area as you.
One thing to remember is push the snow as far over as you can when pushing snow to leave room for more snow if it does not all melt between storms.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Sean, I just have to ask, are you ever going to paint that blade black?

 

[Chilly807]

Brian,

Now that's a good question.. it was sorta blackish when I got it, but the rest of the blade was the Land Pride yellow/brown/whatever-ya-call-it kinda colour. Me being a Kubota owner (note the GREY paint on the end of the lift arms?) I decided I'd paint the blade grey, and the rest of the blade is now K-orange.

I have to admit, I'm running low on grey paint though. I guess this means I'm gonna have to buy some more.. grey paint!

Loosely translated, the answer to your question is .. not anytime soon

Sean