Septic tank and leach field repair

[dlabrie]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The last time the tank was pumped, if ever, did they comment on the overall condition?
)</font> I have had the tank pumped every 2 years since I have been here (18 years). I don't think the last guy really looked closley at the tank, other than to pump it out. I will have it looked at more closley this Spring.

I believe the field is pluggged. There are no suronding trees. About 6' from the field, on 2 sides, the ground slopes down about 6-8'. About 5 years ago, I noticed water seeping out one of the sides. I stuck a shovel in the area and water gushed out. I put in a temporary pipe to route the water away but the area has continued to weep . I think it's time to do a major repair.

 

[surfran]

In addition to the new baffle using the 90 and pvc extension, you may want to put a Zabel Filter in as well. My new system was put in a couple of years ago and the contractor added one of them. It stops the solids from going out.

Here's a link to their website.

Zabel Filters

 

[dummy]

Yea, definitely sounds like its outlived it's usefulness. I was thinking about this the other night and wondering if it's surrounded by ledge. How deep are the layers according to the map? Probably a good time to get some estimates for repair before deciding which way to go. Still not convinced it's not a DIY project, although it will be easier with a hoe onsite. Another option could be to hire an excavator and you do the plumbing, backfilling, etc. thereby keeping within the " homeowner repair" realm.

 

[kayssupply]

If it has been soaking out the sides for a long time, be prepared for a much bigger hole than you started with ,if you are going to try to dig it out with a tractor. If it has soaked the surrounding ground ,you will have to remove a lot of mud to get in and around. A large excavator could " stand off " and pull out the gravel and leave more of the mud. If your ground is clay, you may spend more time stuck than working. You have quite a project for a first timer.

 

[PILOON]

In my area, Quebec, Can,

A 3 BR system consists of a 750 gallon tank and a field that is 5 pipes wide and 3 pipe lengths long.
Every run is linked at the ends with 'tees' and 90 deg for the corners.
That gives a bit over 150' of pipe each row set 3' from the next.
size is therefor 15 ft wide by 30 ft long plus approx additional 3ft on all sides.

A bed of crushed stone 3/4" about 6-8" thick is raked perfectly flat (transit is a must) and the whole works covered over with additional 4-5" of stone.
Geotextile cloth is then placed over the works and a good 6" of coarse sand covers it all.
Top soil generally added with sod for a finish.

This can also be built over an existing soil base for a mounded field.

Perk tests are as simple as digging a 2-3" hole and dumping 10 gals of water in it.
If after 1/2 hr the water is gone the perk test is passed.

If perk test fails, generally due to clay, then a mound is made from sand and the field laid over it.

The most critical part is 'absolutly level bed' so that the grey water is evenly distributed for even absorbion.

Many experts will suggest that a good layer of top soil and you have one of the best vegi gardens around. Just don't plant dep rooted stuff.
The vegies will greatly aide in the evaporation process.

My mother made her flower garden over hers with fantastic blooms.
Her field has been in use for 30 yrs. (Old flowers)

 

[dlabrie]

I took some picts of my 1973, approved septic design. This one is a
X section of the system.

 

[dlabrie]

This one is the size requirement.

 

[dlabrie]

This is of the test pit

 

[Taylortractornut]

really a backhoe is needed to put in a drain feild. Ive put in quite a few as an operator and to get it level with a loader bucket would be super hard. too much fall it boils out at the end of the line not enough fall and it wont leave the tank. In MS we are alllowed 1/10 of a foot fall per 60 feet of line. We have a laser and reciver set up on our grade rod to speeds things up a bit.

 

[avclay]

Piloon,
what are the problems if the gravel bed isn't "absolutely flat?" Even distribution of the water makes sense, but is "transit flat" really necessary?
Just asking since my field is on a decline getting that flat will be a PIA!
Or, do I only have to worry about each pipe being flat in relation to each other?