slider909
Bronze Member
Use a awl to align it. I have to when mine shears.
Shear Bolt Broke On New Deck. PTO Shaft & Gear Box Holes Don't Align.
- Thread starter FunkeeMunkee
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TractorGuy
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My guess is the hole was drilled in the gearbox shaft at an angle. Try rotating the yoke 180* and see if the holes will line up. You might need a large tapered punch to get the holes lined up.
Also look at the front of the yoke and make sure the C-clip hasn't come off and got gone. When you slide the yoke all the way towards the gearbox you should see a groove with a C-clip in the end of the shaft. If it just has the groove you need to replace the missing clip.
Also look at the front of the yoke and make sure the C-clip hasn't come off and got gone. When you slide the yoke all the way towards the gearbox you should see a groove with a C-clip in the end of the shaft. If it just has the groove you need to replace the missing clip.
mikedodd
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It's hard to tell from the small images, but it looks to me like the gearbox hole isn't clear. Maybe it has part of the broken shear bolt stuck to the side. I have a couple of suggestions:
1. Does the PTO connector slide on the gearbox shaft? To me, that's the first thing to ensure, or else the holes will never align.
2. Use a nail set or other hardened tool to tap on whatever is occluding the hole, to see if you can break it loose.
3. Use a coarse round file to see if you can file away some or all of whatever is occluding the hole. You need to get that gearbox shaft hole completely cleared.
4. Once the gearbox shaft hole is clear, can you insert the new shear bolt? If not, as someone else suggested, tap a tapered round tool into the hole to slide the PTO connector until the holes align. I've attached a photo of a Stanley tapered punch I've used to align holes, but it's just over 1/2" diameter. Maybe you could insert it, then hammer it sideways to move the PTO connector. Or, use any tapered tool, such as the masonry drill in the photo. Insert the handle into the hold until the tapered end hits, then hammer on the tapered end. Or grind a taper on the end of any piece of steel 3/4" diameter or larger, and hammer that into the holes.
I hope this helps.
--- Mike
1. Does the PTO connector slide on the gearbox shaft? To me, that's the first thing to ensure, or else the holes will never align.
2. Use a nail set or other hardened tool to tap on whatever is occluding the hole, to see if you can break it loose.
3. Use a coarse round file to see if you can file away some or all of whatever is occluding the hole. You need to get that gearbox shaft hole completely cleared.
4. Once the gearbox shaft hole is clear, can you insert the new shear bolt? If not, as someone else suggested, tap a tapered round tool into the hole to slide the PTO connector until the holes align. I've attached a photo of a Stanley tapered punch I've used to align holes, but it's just over 1/2" diameter. Maybe you could insert it, then hammer it sideways to move the PTO connector. Or, use any tapered tool, such as the masonry drill in the photo. Insert the handle into the hold until the tapered end hits, then hammer on the tapered end. Or grind a taper on the end of any piece of steel 3/4" diameter or larger, and hammer that into the holes.
I hope this helps.
--- Mike
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Martin Roper
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To me a grade 8 is a pretty standard shear bolt, some times shear pins just want to be replaced. The fact that these holes are not lining up on either 180 degree suggests to me that they haven't been since new so putting the pin under more pressure (as it seems unlikely to be the pressure of work that broke it). I would re-drill the hole, I know that will affect the warranty but you have already proved it is not up to much anyway and you have a machine you can not use at the moment.
bearthebruce
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TractorGuy
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I haven't seen a picture of a slip clutch. Why would the gearbox have a smooth shaft with a through bolt if it has a slip clutch?
the old grind
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TractorGuy
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I haven't seen photographic evidence that the OP's driveshaft has a slip clutch. All he has posted is close ups of the yoke hole.
A lot of mowers will list a slip clutch shaft as an option.
His mower should have a plastic document tube with the manual inside.
As far as expecting a dealer to service a slip clutch prior to delivery you are dreaming. The only implement I have with a slip clutch type shaft had the clutch bolts tightened All the way down. All the parts were rusted together and a cup of water came out when I tapped them apart with a hammer. I had to take it all apart and sand the rust off of all the parts.
A lot of mowers will list a slip clutch shaft as an option.
His mower should have a plastic document tube with the manual inside.
As far as expecting a dealer to service a slip clutch prior to delivery you are dreaming. The only implement I have with a slip clutch type shaft had the clutch bolts tightened All the way down. All the parts were rusted together and a cup of water came out when I tapped them apart with a hammer. I had to take it all apart and sand the rust off of all the parts.
TractorTenderfoot
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I am truly a tractor tenderfoot, but with some machinery experience. The bolt that sheared may not be a "Shear Bolt," per se, but it is a bolt, and it did shear. I am working a slip clutch issue on a different thread based on a quote from my Frontier RC2060 manual.
My Frontier RC2060 manual has this quote:
"Slip Clutch Operational Check"
"After the implement has been stored for thirty days or more, perform the following operational check."
It goes on to describe how to loosen the bolts on the slip clutch and then to operate the PTO to make sure that the slip clutch . . . slips to protect the rest of the drive train. In my case, it does not slip (it sat for a long time prior to my ownership) and I'm in the process of figuring out how to get it free. The best advice I've gotten on this forum to free it is that while the bolts on the slip clutch are loosened, to engage the PTO back into heavy grass that would presumably cause the clutch to slip, then adjust the bolts as described in my manual and go about my mowing business.
Questions: Is it possible, that you engaged the PTO while at full-rated engine RPM, rather than engaging it at idle and then ramping up the RPM to full speed? I have heard anecdotally that such can shear bolts.
Why didn't your new mower come with a manual?
There are quite a few minor maintenance issues associated with tractoring, and you may want to consider getting familiar with them to save many trailer trips to the dealer.
My Frontier RC2060 manual has this quote:
"Slip Clutch Operational Check"
"After the implement has been stored for thirty days or more, perform the following operational check."
It goes on to describe how to loosen the bolts on the slip clutch and then to operate the PTO to make sure that the slip clutch . . . slips to protect the rest of the drive train. In my case, it does not slip (it sat for a long time prior to my ownership) and I'm in the process of figuring out how to get it free. The best advice I've gotten on this forum to free it is that while the bolts on the slip clutch are loosened, to engage the PTO back into heavy grass that would presumably cause the clutch to slip, then adjust the bolts as described in my manual and go about my mowing business.
Questions: Is it possible, that you engaged the PTO while at full-rated engine RPM, rather than engaging it at idle and then ramping up the RPM to full speed? I have heard anecdotally that such can shear bolts.
Why didn't your new mower come with a manual?
There are quite a few minor maintenance issues associated with tractoring, and you may want to consider getting familiar with them to save many trailer trips to the dealer.