Simple Valve Handle Relocation Kama 554

[3RRL]

Hi guys,
I wanted to share a simple modification which made operating a little easier for me.
My Kama 554 came stock with 2 rear remotes. Several years ago, I switched that valve so it operates 2 hydraulic side link cylinders when I added top and tilt. I also added another 3 spool valve so I could have 3 sets of rear remotes.
The problem I was having was reaching the handles when operating the top and tilt. Normally, looking over my right shoulder while box blading or with any implement, I was out of position to get to the handles. Not only that, but the base of the handles was crowding the floor space. Additionally, while getting or leaning into the cab with the tractor running, I would occasionally hit the levers, then activating the one or both cylinders. I broke an upper lift arm that way by the cylinder extending when I didn't know it.
Below are photos of the stock handles' location and linkage.
Rob-

 

[3RRL]

My goal was to move the handles up and to the rear.
I could then reach them when turned around, plus they would be more out of the way when entering the tractor. I started by cutting the existing handle guide bracket into 2 pieces. They had guide slots in the bracket and were double decked. I figured I could use one at the floorboard and one higher up on the fender. I made a pivot point above the lower guide and some simple linkage. The links were so I could move the bracket rearward. I had to drill and tap new holes in the floorboard for the new location. The pivot point above was so I didn't have to have a longer throw for the levers to operate the valve. That way, they would have the save throw (travel) as before.

Then I made some linkage pieces and welded the existing handles to some flat stock to make them longer. I also made some spacers for the longer handles. They would keep the handles in place right at the pivot point. Of course, with the new linkage, the valve operated in reverse of what it was. I switched the connections (JIC fittings) on the cylinders so the up and down were the same as before.
Below are photos of the guides, new pivot point, linkage and spacers.
Rob-

 

[3RRL]

I used the top half of the guide, adding a couple of mounting brackets, to guide the longer levers.
I also added a couple more bends in the levers to get them closer to the fender. Below are the pictures of how they turned out. You can compare the new location with the old location, side by side. I got lucky guessing where to put the pivot so as to retain the same travel too.
The new location are the middle photos.



You can see how much the levers have been moved to the rear, out of the way.
Entry into the cab is a lot easier, and the way the top guide bracket shields the levers, I'm less likely to move them accidentally. Last, the handles are now in a position where I can easily reach and operate them while being turned around, looking back.
I like my new mod.
Rob-

 

[valley]

Rob, That looks good! You certainly make things more comfy to use. How much bigger is the Kama than Loretta's Jinma? what size engine? Is it as big as 60hp? Richard

 

[3RRL]

Rob, That looks good! You certainly make things more comfy to use. How much bigger is the Kama than Loretta's Jinma? what size engine? Is it as big as 60hp? Richard

Hi Richard,
My Kama is 55 engine hp and 50 PTO hp.
With fel, implement on and loaded tires, it weighs in at just over 8,000lbs.

 

[valley]

Rob, The reason I asked is: I may need a bit bigger machine. I'm enjoying the 254 and am getting some things done but for some of these rocks I could use something bigger, no rush. The bucket doesn't hold much into the bargain. I picked up a rock today, the FEL could hold the weight but upper lip stoped it from fitting back into the bucket, so it tipped out as I was driving out with it. Maybe I can reshape the bucket a bit. Richard