Small Post-Framed Barn Construction: Opinions Welcome!

[UOFan]

Wait, so you are building a goat barn, while ALSO building a new shop, directly next to your older existing shop? This just all got way more interesting lol.

More pics of the shop buildings! I'm not sure about the picture rotation but maybe you could try rotating them in your phone before uploading.

Yep, I usually start another project before finishing my current project! Will post more pictures of the shops.

Realizing its already built but for next time or others out there, with a 15' span you do not need center posts. The roof load will transmit to the outside walls so there is no vertical load on the center, especially with very little snow load.
Your barn looks great and it looks like quality construction!

Thank you. We decided to put the additional 6x6's mainly for looks..gotta keep the wife happy.

Will echo what others have said about condensation. I built an open on all 4 sides tractor shed about ten years ago. Did not know what I was doing. It is a little overbuilt and plenty sturdy. It has survived one decent snow/ice event (very rare here) as well as some big winds and storms. But, not knowing any better I put tin over purlins. There are many days that it rains in there from condensation. All my equipment has marks from drip lines. Most of the purlins are water stained. A few have gotten soft.

All future shops, sheds, barns or carports will have some sort of sheathing with tar paper and then metal.

Yeah, I ended up using plywood and some synthetic roofing felt that my neighbor gave me he had leftover from a jobsite. He's a GC and that's what they're using on new builds around here.

 

[Hay Dude]

About the only thing I would have done differently on the framing is skip the center posts and put up trusses. I made my own and had a 24' span. There is ZERO sag in the roof and the building is probably going to land somewhere in one piece if a tornado ever gets it. I put all the trusses together with screws and glue. Ain't no way they're coming apart (with any component in one piece).

Did you use Timber Locks for screws? I love those things

 

[N80]

I don’t know what Timber Locks are but our cabin kit came with Ollylogs. I think they came in 12 and 16 inch. They self tap. No drilling. They zip right through pine logs. The carport I’m planning will be 6x6 posts and 4x6 beams and I’ll put the whole thing together with the Ollylog screws. I have a bunch left over. Which is good because they are pricey.

 

[pmsmechanic]

^^^ to a limited extent. After years of expansion and contraction of the panels, added to lack of proper framing diagonals, those holes through the 26/ 29ga.
(0.079"/0.0149") will "egg out" even more with the buildings movement.
For the sake of only 4 2x4x16's, one at each corner of the roof, I don't rely on any possible "racking" abilities of the metal.

Out here nobody does diagonal bracing on a tin covered building. I've seen screws loosen up but I've never seen "egged out" screw holes. I'm wondering if it's because we don't get as hot during the summer months. Also because of wind we use one size larger screws than in most areas of the country.

 

[OldPaint]

Did you use Timber Locks for screws? I love those things

Nope, just regular construction screws, but a butt load of them. Each truss has 120 screws (60 each sided) in it for all the escutcheon plates and the webs. In addition to the screws, every escutcheon got a nice coat of Gorilla wood glue to stick them to the component beams. I used 14' 2x4's for the top chords, and 10' 2x4's for the bottom chords, and cut up 8' 2x4's for the W members. Took about 4 days to build all the trusses, another 2 to stand them up and get the purlins on. They were light enough I put 3 of 10 up on the top plate by myself, in June of 2021, AFTER shoulder surgery in June and October of 2020. I doubt each truss weights more than 200 lbs, but according to the calculator I used, they're good for nearly a ton each. I do like the open floor plan too. I had to cut about 6" off the top cords to get my 16" overhang. We don't have any snow load to consider here, so I got away with the purlins on roughly 4 foot centers. A relatively local dealer cut my roofing to length, so I had a custom fit roof. Had lumber been just a little cheaper and I had it all to do again, I'd put the purlins on 2' centers. Newer metal ag roofing isn't quite as thick and robust as the old 5V that I put on several barns as a kid. It's a little worrisome to walk on it and not feel like you're gonna go through.

 

[Hay Dude]

Sounds good.
I would routinely do a 2 car garage roof truss package in less than a day with a helper. We would load all the trusses upside down and once you get a gable wall truss up and braced, get your 2x4 braces marked and up, just flip them up and use a pole to stand them up under your 2x4 braces.
Then we started to rent a crane for a day. So nice