Snow Blower Electric Chute Deflector Modification

[Snowlan]

I'm buying a used pull type snow blower next week, it has manual chute deflection PLUS an electric deflector kit that hadn't been installed. Has anyone ever had issues with fuses while lowering the chute and deflecting heavy snow at the same time? I'm curious how over specced the motors are because I'm thinking about adding a second deflector for more control, but this will put a lot more leverage on the motor. Once I've got it running I can test with an ammeter while applying some force, just curious now if the concept will work without upgrading the motor/circuit.

Since my driveway is raise and wooded on both sides, I have no need for high discharge angles. With an open station tractor I'm hoping extending the chute as long as practical and keeping the snow more or less horizontal will reduce the "blizzard effect".

Well, just typing this has allowed some evolution of the concept, I'll still post it as I'm happy to receive any opinions. I can make the new intermediate chute piece the manual section and put the motor on the existing deflector that I'll move out to the end, the motor load will be unchanged that way. This will give me better control of the final discharge angle.

 

[Underwhere]

I have been running an electric chute deflector for years. I use a 6 inch linear actuator.

I always keep a spare one on me and I blow fuses frequently.

It's amazing when it's working but I'm done with it.

I'm hoping to put together everything on hydraulics.

 

[PILOON]

My electric chute rotator is a modified electric winch and has served me well for some 8+ years.
I leave my top deflector 'wide open' as my drive is in the forest and the further the better.

 

[dnw64]

I have been running an electric chute deflector for years. I use a 6 inch linear actuator.

I always keep a spare one on me and I blow fuses frequently.

It's amazing when it's working but I'm done with it.

They make electric actuators with literally thousands of pounds capacity. Here's one with 330# capacity for $40. https://www.amazon.com/ECO-WORTHY-A...T,B00VBASRP8,B07HNV39YL,B00LON21DQ,B07HNTBJYL

The combination of a heavier duty actuator and proper leverage can easily handle your problem. I designed and installed an electric actuator on my Massey front blower and never once blew a fuse or burnt the actuator. It's been in service for, I think, 5 years now.

This reminds me - I need to get this set up on my Kubota. I have hydraulic rotation, but get-off-and-adjust deflection. We're in a really windy area so when possible I like to have it down as low as possible (even WITH a cab), but there are some places where I want maximum distance. I generally compromise according to prevailing conditions.

 

[dlctcg]

I think you could definitely get electric actuator that can handle the load... but also when building projects like this, I also would likely use a manually (push button) resettable Circuit breaker for the that circuit... If it does trip... no swapping a fuse (or hoping you remembered to bring one after the last time it went)... just push the button.

I did this for the control box I built for our PTO debris / leaf blower, which has chute rotation & deflection... works great..

Couple of examples:

ATC Blade style circuit breakers

Panel mount quick connect circuit breakers

They even have weatherproof covers for the panel mount... links are just for reference you can get these just about anywhere...

Just a though to help eliminate changing / having fuses when needed

 

[chim]

I'm buying a used pull type snow blower next week, it has manual chute deflection PLUS an electric deflector kit that hadn't been installed. Has anyone ever had issues with fuses while lowering the chute and deflecting heavy snow at the same time? I'm curious how over specced the motors are because I'm thinking about adding a second deflector for more control, but this will put a lot more leverage on the motor. Once I've got it running I can test with an ammeter while applying some force, just curious now if the concept will work without upgrading the motor/circuit.

Since my driveway is raise and wooded on both sides, I have no need for high discharge angles. With an open station tractor I'm hoping extending the chute as long as practical and keeping the snow more or less horizontal will reduce the "blizzard effect".

Well, just typing this has allowed some evolution of the concept, I'll still post it as I'm happy to receive any opinions. I can make the new intermediate chute piece the manual section and put the motor on the existing deflector that I'll move out to the end, the motor load will be unchanged that way. This will give me better control of the final discharge angle.

Without info on the power required to run the two components, can't say. When I built electrical controls ofr mine, I used a motor made for a car seat for rotation and a linear actuator for up/down. The control was a pair of rocker switches on a condulet on the end of a cord. Since the movement was via my thumb, there was never an instance where both were used at the same time. My GUESS is the current draw will be low enough so it isn't an issue.