Soleniod controlled Water

[jasonf]

Guys:
Here is the situation. I have a 1 inch plastic pipe going to the barn. I want to do the following: Hot water, Cold water and Warm water. I have the hot and cold lines in the Mobile home, and a 4 pair of wire between the barn and the Mobile home. My problem is I need a solenoid operated valve that is capable of controlling the Hot Line and another for the Cold line before they go into a Y fitting that goes to the Barn. I have come up with using a 24V AC Irrigation Solenoid valve (for auto lawn sprinklers) from Lowes that cost $15. That will take care of the Cold side fine. The problem is how to control the Hot side. The Lowes Valves are good for up to 120 degrees. I need something rated for hotter water than that. I would like to be able to send HOT water out to the barn in the winter for the Horse buckets. Any Ideas on controlling the HOT side? The solenoids would be controlled by 2 switches in the barn. One hooked in series with each solenoid. That would give me all 3 temps (HOT, COLD and WARM). The only thing I can come up with for the HOT side is a Zone control valve for Hot water systems in Houses. (but they are around $70 each) /w3tcompact/icons/sad.gif Any other ideas?

 

[Mark_in_NH]

Seems like a fairly complex system you are tyring to create.
First off, I would be curious as to how far away from the house is the barn ???
Depending on that distance and the possible fact that the water line may be full of cold water which is effecting the temperature of that pipe. Or do you have 2 lines run, 1 for hot / 1 for cold.
Just how hot is your Hot Water going to be, by the time it gets to the barn ?
How deep is this line(s)? Is it / Will it be prone to freezing ? Is it pitched so it can drain back, once you shut the selenoid(s) off ?
Do you have a check valve installled in line(s) to prevent it draining back ? Are you going to use a mixing valve to create your warm water.
None of my ?'s consitute an answer, I am merely curious.

I would think that the valve from a commercial or really good residential dishwasher might work. But I'd bet that thet are as expensive a heating system zone valve.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Think OUTSIDE of the box, you probably passed a few of the valves you need driving to & from work this week.
Every automatic washing machine sitting by the curb waiting for trash pickup contains one. Add a couple relays so you can operate the 110 volt coils from the barn, and you have it.

 

[TimSullivan]

I have a manual system similar to what you are talking about. It worked well until the valves were both open and the cold water feed back through the hot water line and ruined a hot shower for the wife. You may want to put a one way flapper valve in the system.

 

[frank_f15]

mark pretty much , asked the same questions i would ask. there are many valves that will handel high temp. but u are going to pay for them. another thing u might need to consider , do u think u might need slow opening/closing valves?

 

[beenthere]

Ahhhh! My experience exactly. Funny now, but not at the time it happened.

 

[gws]

How about a solenoid off a dishwasher?

 

[jasonf]

The 1" plastic line is already run inside of a 3 inch plastic hose. it is buried below the frost line. The barn is about 20 feet away and I have a Yard hydrant that has a auto drain feature that will keep it frost free. I will have to put an anti syphon valve in the setup just in case.

 

[jasonf]

You know I was thinking the same thing! The problem is that the soleniods are 120 VAC, (I was hoping to run low voltage out to Yard Hydrant. but I could use relays to control the 120 volt solenoids) The more issue is that the outlet of the Washing Machine control valve is very small perhaps 3/8 to 1/2 of an inch. I think the flow to the hydrant would be too slow to fill a bucket, wash the horse, etc.... Although it does fill the tub of a washing machine in about 5 minutes, wouldn't you say?

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Dishwashers only connect to the HOT water.