stabilize top & tilt for mowing?

txdon · Jul 1, 2004

Is it possible to put some kind of valve on a regular hydraulic cylinder so it will not drift? My top and tilt moves out about an inch an hour when I mow. Thanks, Don.

JoshJ · Jul 1, 2004

txdon- i dont know much about it myself, but this post may help you out Top and Tilt Valve Info

MadReferee · Jul 2, 2004

Yep, you need a double pilot operated check valve. They can be purchased seperately and added to your cylinder. Just make sure you get one with the right specs. Take a look at these threads for more information.

Double pilot operated check valves

Check valve info

Jsheds · Jul 2, 2004

I've just spent several hours reading about top and tilt, TCC, whatever you want to call it. It seems that everyone agrees you can add a double pilot check valve to top link that doesn't have one, but has anyone actually done it? If so, which one did you use? I've read seemingly endless discussions about the cracking pressure of the pilot valves, and that a valve with the high cracking pressure can't be found. My dealer just dropped off a top and tilt sytem that he had sitting in the basement. For $400 it got a 3-spool valve, hydraulic top and side links and all the plumbing to plug it into my rear remote. I would like to install the check valves if possible, does anyone know where to find one that will work?
Thanks,
Jim

MadReferee · Jul 3, 2004

I have no idea what brand of valve is used on the CCM or TCC cylinders since they are both made overseas. I also know of no one who has actually put their own on a cylinder. You could always be the first as someone has to.

For $29.50 or whatever, I would get the one from Surplus Center and try it. You already got a fantastic deal on the rest of the setup so another $30 is no big loss.

Good luck and keep us abreast of your progress.

Birdhunter1 · Jul 3, 2004

I don't know what kind of tractor you have but I have been alking to Glenn9643 about a MF 1455 and in the reviews section of TBN under the MF section, he posted what he added to his rig to take care of this same problem. Also if you do a search for MF 1455 you'll find a post of his on this subject.

Glenn9643 · Jul 3, 2004

Birdhunter1,
You read the review and assumed that I would get everything done that I planned to do! I still haven't got the thing fixed. I did order a lock-valve but they didn't have it in stock and I haven't reordered. There are several here but some seem a little large. I still plan to get one and install it but don't know just when. For the present I've resorted to taking the tilt cylinder off except when using the box blade. Bush-hogging is just too much of a pain with the drift in the tilt cylinder. I guess check-chains would solve it but the cylinder shouldn't leak down that much seems to me. There's been a lot of confusing discussion regarding the double-piloted checkvalves but through all the hocus-pocus I don't think it's really that complicated. Look at the fitting size, gpm rating, pressure rating, and select one that will match your equipment. If I find that I'm wrong after trying one I'll certainly let everyone know...
And so far I haven't had any problem with my Prince hydraulic top link leaking down or "drifting".

txdon · Jul 5, 2004

Thanks everyone, I think I'll wait for Glen9643 to find all the bugs before I try one. It seems easy enough but there are several areas that are tricky. First the right valve: GPM, PSI, NPT ports, Pilot pressure ratio, physical size, and then comes the plumbing. When you do it Glen take plenty of pictures! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

MadReferee · Jul 5, 2004

When you add $60 for check valve + fittings and adapters + plumbing you have spent probably over $100 not counting any labor involved. It would seem to me that spending $170 to get a new complete top link with all the goodies from CCM would be extremely cost effective. You could then use you existing top link cylinder for something else. Just thinking.