Sticky rear brake ideas.

[puckgrinder85]

The problem started when you walked into autozone.

 

[dodge man]

When I did the brakes the first time 14 months ago I had a caliper stick right away the next day. I got another one at Advanced Auto Parts thinking it would be higher quality. It was a different box but the paper work inside was the same as Autozones. Who rebuilds them I don't know.

 

[94BULLITT]

It is really best to change the hoses when you change the calipers. You did not let the caliper hang by the hose when you did the brakes did you?

 

[The Fred]

I own a 2004 Dodge Ram 4x4 with the Cummins. Its a 3/4 ton so single rear wheel. About 14 months ago I redid the rear brakes with all new parts. Dodge uses a rear drum brake inside the disc brake hub for emergency brakes. I replaced everything, new rotors, calipers, e-brake parts and new pads. About a week after I did this work the drivers side caliper was sticking. I replaced it again with another rebuilt one and everything has been fine until last week.

Last Firday I got home and could smell the drivers side brake was hot. I pulled the wheel the next day and cracked the bleeder on the caliper and there was no pressure. I pulled the caliper and the wheel would still not spin easy. After much work and getting a different drum brake tool I was able to spin the star wheel adjuster enough to loosen the e-brake. I thought everything was fine but when I drove it for a test drive the brake was still getting hot. The next day I pull the wheel and the caliper is sticking this time. I got the caliper at Autozone, it was a rebuilt, but it had a lifetime warranty and got another one free. Everything seems fine now.

My question is was it just a coincidence the e-brake and disc brake caliper were sticking at the same time? As far as I know the systems are in no way tied together. Did one problem cause the other? My opinion is that the calipers I'm getting are crappy rebuilds.

E-brake cable sticking? You might back the parking brake off just a tad more but as a rule when the drums get hotter they expand getting looser not tighter.
I see rebuilt calipers with old pistons, peeling chrome and some of the worst quality control you have ever seen. Good check on the caliper when it is unloaded (no pads) push the piston in a bit, it should come back out on it's own .010" or so. It needs to retract just a bit.

New fluid I hope? Yeah the hoses can constrict but you already cracked the bleeder so you know that's not the issue. Hanging the calipers by the hose may not be a good idea but a wive's tale just the same. Also I've seen dirt pushed back into the ABS unit from backyard mechanics not releasing the bleeder before pushing the pistons back in. ABS unit, now that will cause some problems. Oh and make sure your pads aren't sticking in the holders, they should be free to move around a bit. Some of the junky rebuilt calipers I see don't come with brackets and the rust must be cleaned out of the pad holders.

Good luck, Fred

 

[dodge man]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I also thought of the abs as being a potential problem. I don't know that I have 100% new fluid but let's say I bleed the heck out of them 14 months ago.