Stuck Cylinder Liners YM1700

SailorBob · Sep 4, 2007

I have everything I need now to put my tractor back togother but, I can't get the old cylinder liners out. I searched the forum and found a thread with someone with the same problem with a 1500 but, he never posted a resolution.

FYI, I did not split the tractor and have not removed the crank, etc. I don't really have a place to do it. I have attempted to make 2 different pullers. The first attemp was with angle iron with spacers over the block. I used a 9" bolt between the bottom and the top piece. (The spacers were definetly not blocking the liners nor was the bottom piece hitting anything either. ). The angle iron just bent when I starting tightening the bolt. ( i guess it was not thick enough. So, I took 2 pieces of 1/4" steel stock together. Same result. I am running out of ideas. I know some of you had done this. Please help!!!

It is frustrating to get this close and get stuck.

rock2610D · Sep 4, 2007

I had a similar issue. I used 1/2 inch steel and it bent too. I ended up using the 1/2 inch steel and welded a 1/2 inch piece (on edge) on top of that 1/2 inch piece of steel to make a "T". The hole is what causes the bend. So get the brace as close to the hole as possible.

Once I did that the liners just slipped out.

I will post a photo of my contraption tonight.

mark777 · Sep 4, 2007

If you have access to a MIG welder, you can make a series of small, vertical welds which cause the liners to shrink after they cool down. Our machine shop does this often...and says most pull out by hand.

Mark

SailorBob · Sep 4, 2007

Rock,

That sounds like it should work. I would like to see the photo I don't have a welder though.

Thanks guys for your help.

Mark,

That is the second time I have heard the welding trick. The guy at the machine shop where I had the head done said the same thing. He did not say I needed a MIG welder though.

Looks like I now need a welder to use either solution. I wonder if the Admiral will go along with this one.

I have been wanting one for a long time...I think I might make a trip to Harbor Freight to see what a cheapie welder might cost.

MJPetersen · Sep 4, 2007

Welding works very well to shrink parts such as bearing races and cylinder liners. It does not have to be a mig any welder will work. When the weld cools it contracts and draws the metal in. the result is a slip fit. Be careful that you do not burn through the liner, not difficult to do.

Mike

kenmac · Sep 4, 2007

MJPetersen said:
Welding works very well to shrink parts such as bearing races and cylinder liners. It does not have to be a mig any welder will work. When the weld cools it contracts and draws the metal in. the result is a slip fit. Be careful that you do not burn through the liner, not difficult to do.

Mike

Would a propane( map gas ) torch get hot enough to produce the same results ??

Just an Idea. These can be had at local hardware ,WM stores

MJPetersen · Sep 5, 2007

It is not the heat, but the contraction of a weld that "shrinks" the liner. This is the well known "warp" factor in welding. You can make a 1/2 in. plate of steel curl like bacon by welding successive beads on one side.

Mike

kenmac · Sep 5, 2007

I have applied enough heat to stuck things to at least get them to move. A torch would be worth trying if he doesn't have a welder or can't weld. I agree that welding will curl metal .I was a welder for many years in my previous life

rock2610D · Sep 5, 2007

Sorry, I could not post photo last night. Liners do come out easy after you get the bending of puller issue figured out.

If I were to do it again I would use a 1 inch thick piece of steel, 2.5 inches wide and the right length to not hit block. Drill a 1/4' to 3/8" hole in middle of 1" thick steel and use althread (1/4" to 3/8") to pull liners.

I used a 1/2 inch thick piece of metal 6" by 6' for my top brace. Layed it flat on top of head bolts. Head bolts should have nuts on them to protect them. Wood tends to crush and not apply an even pull on liners.

No welding needed just a drill.

Note: I also ground a lip on both ends of the puller piece of metal. This lip allows the puller to slip ever so slightly up into the liner. It helps keep puller centered and will not slide one way or another making sure both sides of puller never contact block.

SailorBob · Sep 5, 2007

rock2610D said:
Sorry, I could not post photo last night. Liners do come out easy after you get the bending of puller issue figured out.

If I were to do it again I would use a 1 inch thick piece of steel, 2.5 inches wide and the right length to not hit block. Drill a 1/4' to 3/8" hole in middle of 1" thick steel and use althread (1/4" to 3/8") to pull liners.

I used a 1/2 inch thick piece of metal 6" by 6' for my top brace. Layed it flat on top of head bolts. Head bolts should have nuts on them to protect them. Wood tends to crush and not apply an even pull on liners.

No welding needed just a drill.

Note: I also ground a lip on both ends of the puller piece of metal. This lip allows the puller to slip ever so slightly up into the liner. It helps keep puller centered and will not slide one way or another making sure both sides of puller never contact block.

Thanks for your help. I f I understand you correctly with your first suggestion is to use a 1" think piece of stock at the top to sit on top of the head bolts and cut a corresponding piece for the bottom of the cylinder with a groove to allow it to slip slightly up into the cylinder. I suppose that I could use my angle grinder or Dremel tool to make the groove. I guess I am a little concerned about potentially bending the head bolts. The last contraption that I built i just used a stack of 4 1/4# peices of stock set them on top of the block next to the head bolts. I then placed the cross piece on top of those stacks and started tightening it. I guess I was hoping that once the liners break loose I would be able to grab them and pull them out.

The square piece at the top will not work on this tractor because it is a 2 cylinder and the middle head bolt on the port side is shorter than the others. (see pic)

I guess I will have to look for some 1" stock now that would be the cheapest option

OR

I found a 90 amp flux wire welder on sale at Harbor Freight for $118 (reg 199). I wonder if it would be sufficient to remove the liners.(I used to have a Lincoln AC/DC buzz box years ago when I owned a steel hull boat something always needed welding on that beast) and I think I could still run a few beads up the liner.