T254 Rear Seals etc

[elsievo]

Hi, former lurker now "proud" owner of a used T254 with loader and belly mower. Got it at an online auction . . . note to self, when spending that much money go and inspect anything you buy.

Anyway, it looks like I will get to know this machine intimately, and I feel in the end I'll have a great little tractor to do what I need. Just more parts needed than what I was led from the pictures.

I have both rear seals leaking at the axle. From the exploded view of the parts manual looks like if I drain the fluid, take the housing off I should be able to take off the clips, bearings etc to slide the axle out and replace the seal.

The questions I have:
1. I don't see a gasket between the housing and the transmission body or is there some kind of sealant one puts on the surfaces to ensure the oil does not leak out the seam?

2. While in there should I replace the bearings anyway? (Tractor has 468 hours)

I'll post a picture of it when I get it back together. Have to repair some tires (2 going flat in 24-48 hours) and a few bent & missing parts on the mower deck. Of course the seals and then perform the 500 hour service while I'm at it. Will eventually add a Bercomac snowblower for the winter to handle the driveway at home, the shop and church parking lot. (very small church)

 

[Gregster613]

elsievo, I'm needing to do the same with my 273. I got both seals from Jordan's in Idaho and asked about the gasket. They said there isn't one and to just use sealer. They gave me the name of what they use - They called it "Rite Stuff" oil resistant sealer. Can be gotten from Napa. But I believe any type of silicone sealer will work. I didn't think about the bearings at all; I've got over a thousand hours on mine and hear nothing grinding while using it, just the annoying leak spot on floor whilst it sits.

If you would either post pictures or at least document the process it would be a great help for me. I'll be doing this by myself and have been trying to plan out how to handle removing all the "heavy" pieces - tire, housing assembly, ROP structure, etc., etc., without hurting myself or having any mishap. Then putting them back on. Can be quite a challenge I'm afraid.

The actual seal replacement should be rather simple by itself, but getting to it is the challenge! I wish you luck and would appreciate any tips you might share. I've been putting this off because it's quite a procedure to get it apart but I do need to get to it soon. Greg

 

[elsievo]

Thanks for the tip on the sealer.

I will take pics and document what I did (right) as I go along. Will probably do on the other items I'm repairing as well so someone could learn from my mistakes / successes.

I'm ordering parts now. It may be a pdf with photos instead of a video. The size of the shaft covers even on this small of a tractor are pretty substantial. You're going to be looking at a bit more weight than I. Tonight I was looking underneath to see where I can put blocking so nothing falls on me. Hope the rear tires come off a bit easier than the fronts. I think they have trained gorillas with 6 foot long wrenches tightening these bolts. It was a bit too much for the 20v battery powered impact wrench. Had a "wired" electric in the shop and it persuaded them to back out.

 

[Gregster613]

elsievo, The housings are what particularly concern me! With the gears still inside it looks as if could be quite heavy. Figuring out a way to hold them level as they come off is challenging. The oddball shape is perplexing. I'm thing something like an engine hoist might be worthwhile to purchase beforehand of starting disassembly. Or maybe even a pallet jack? I have neither at this time, and don't really want to buy something if I'm not going to use it. I don't know. That's why I'm very interested in how you approach this task.

I've never taken my tires off but I can just imagine how tight those nuts will be. I've got pneumatic tools so I hope they will be strong enough or else an electric impact is also on the list of needed items. If a "long" pry bar and a piece of pipe added to the mix don't work first either!

Thanks for your reply and looking forwards to learn how this works out for you - and gives me needed ideas too! Greg

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

Can you clamp some kind of anchor on the ROPS, and use a winch of some kind?

 

[elsievo]

Seals were ordered the other day from my not so local TYM dealer. I'll use OEM for this but plan to measure and make a note so next time I might find something local if necessary. I'll look into the idea about hooking something to the ROPS. I'm a bit concerned about balance and that the axle housing might slip. May put thick padding right below and let it drop, then figure how I'm going to support it when I have to reinstall. In the mean time I'll replace that plastic fan on the input shaft . . .

 

[elsievo]

Sorry for the delay . . . trying to get all the parts to do this job as well as 500 hour service etc. Anyway today we tackled the beast.
First off, could TYM make replacing the HST filter just a bit more difficult to replace on the T254, I wasn't quite challenged enough (heavy sarcasm).

I'll make a pdf with pictures on the seal replacement, it was pretty straightforward. Started by draining the HST fluids from both sides and the mid pto. Then jacked it up, making sure it was stable, removed the wheels, disconnected the brake (take the rod off the lever, makes reassembly much easier). Disconnected the brackets on the rods, (bolts go through the axle housing. Then went around the housing taking out the bolts on mine there were 3 different lengths but pretty obvious which ones went where on the reassembly. Took a rubber mallet and softly tapped on the inside of the wheel flange and the housing came loose fairly easy, again many soft taps used on my part. There are a couple pins and the bolts for the bracket. You may have to gently wiggle to get the housing off. Mine are aluminum so the entire assembly was only 30 - 35 lbs. The 273 will probably be larger and cast iron, don't know how you would hook a cherry picker or similar to lift it if it was too heavy by hand. Maybe a crib on a creeper that would allow it to drop a small distance and you could wheel it out, or call Bubba or the Mountain Ox. Once it was off there is a circlip on the end of the shaft (inside the housing) take that off, pull the bearing, the gear and spacer pull right out. Numerous taps with the rubber mallet to drive the shaft off the other bearing and out the housing (in the direction of the wheel flange). Pryed the seal out with a screw driver. Cleaned all the material from the sealant used from the edges of the wheel housing and HST reservoir. (bolt holes too).

Put in the new seals (I greased mine) it looks like the previous owner used the gasket paste. Put the shaft back in, had to put the wheel flange down and tap around the housing with rubber mallet to seat the outboard bearing. Might have worked better having a support for the housing and a hole for the shaft and tapping on the wheel flange. Replace the spacer, gear, inboard bearing and circlip. I put the sealant on the edge of the housing per instructions on the tube. Put the housing back on, brake lever and bracket. Instructions on the sealant said to tighten somewhat, wait an hour then torque to specifications. Don't put the wheels back on before you do the final torquing of the housing bolts (don't ask me how I know this.) Now I'm waiting for it to completely dry before adding fluid.

 

[Gregster613]

Sorry for the delay . . . trying to get all the parts to do this job as well as 500 hour service etc. Anyway today we tackled the beast.
First off, could TYM make replacing the HST filter just a bit more difficult to replace on the T254, I wasn't quite challenged enough (heavy sarcasm).

I'll make a pdf with pictures on the seal replacement, it was pretty straightforward. Started by draining the HST fluids from both sides and the mid pto. Then jacked it up, making sure it was stable, removed the wheels, disconnected the brake (take the rod off the lever, makes reassembly much easier). Disconnected the brackets on the rods, (bolts go through the axle housing. Then went around the housing taking out the bolts on mine there were 3 different lengths but pretty obvious which ones went where on the reassembly. Took a rubber mallet and softly tapped on the inside of the wheel flange and the housing came loose fairly easy, again many soft taps used on my part. There are a couple pins and the bolts for the bracket. You may have to gently wiggle to get the housing off. Mine are aluminum so the entire assembly was only 30 - 35 lbs. The 273 will probably be larger and cast iron, don't know how you would hook a cherry picker or similar to lift it if it was too heavy by hand. Maybe a crib on a creeper that would allow it to drop a small distance and you could wheel it out, or call Bubba or the Mountain Ox. Once it was off there is a circlip on the end of the shaft (inside the housing) take that off, pull the bearing, the gear and spacer pull right out. Numerous taps with the rubber mallet to drive the shaft off the other bearing and out the housing (in the direction of the wheel flange). Pryed the seal out with a screw driver. Cleaned all the material from the sealant used from the edges of the wheel housing and HST reservoir. (bolt holes too).

Put in the new seals (I greased mine) it looks like the previous owner used the gasket paste. Put the shaft back in, had to put the wheel flange down and tap around the housing with rubber mallet to seat the outboard bearing. Might have worked better having a support for the housing and a hole for the shaft and tapping on the wheel flange. Replace the spacer, gear, inboard bearing and circlip. I put the sealant on the edge of the housing per instructions on the tube. Put the housing back on, brake lever and bracket. Instructions on the sealant said to tighten somewhat, wait an hour then torque to specifications. Don't put the wheels back on before you do the final torquing of the housing bolts (don't ask me how I know this.) Now I'm waiting for it to completely dry before adding fluid.

Good write-up and job elsievo, and you are correct - my 273 had cast housings - and was heavier than aluminum but was not that difficult to lift out once gotten to the actual lifting portion of the job. Mine only had two different sized bolts and they were obvious as to where they went also. Like you, instead of grease, I used hydraulic oil on my new seals to make them slide in easier. All else is exactly the same procedure. Glad you got it done! You didn't mention having to remove the ROP assembly? I had to on mine and that in itself is an ordeal! But, what isn't - when working on our tractors and doing something for the first time!
Good job and glad you got-er-done!!

 

[elsievo]

Fortunately on the T254 you do not have to remove the ROPS to get at anything down there. Just get the wheels off. With my closest dealer 2-1/2 hours away it looks like I will become very well acquainted in servicing my TYM. Thankful for sites like this where I can find info and the encouragement to go and do it. Had to replace the fuel filter assembly as the shut off handle was loose and beginning to drip. In looking at the way the hoses are routed it seems like a self bleed system at least on the supply side up to the high pressure fuel pump.

Former owner abused and didn't maintain this tractor, would not doubt it was a rental. Next project is to see why there is so much play in the loader control. But at least we're functional at this point with fresh filters and fluids all around.