TC 40 D Fuse block

[Cdawg]

I have a fuse that melted down in the fuse block under the instrument panel. It is the one furthest to the right. A 10 amp fuse. I managed to pull the pieces out with a pair of pliers but was wondering what the fuse was for. Everything seems to work well without it.

 

[jinman]

That's fuse #7 and is for your front headlights. The headlights are the only thing listed in the table for that fuse.

 

[Cdawg]

Thanks jinman. One of the fuses melted welded the fuse block shut. I'll have to get a small external fuse holder and put it along side. When I took the block out I saw that that fuse is cross wired with #6. Are those both headlights?

 

[jinman]

When you say "cross-wired" do you mean in parallel or only one side connected to the same bus? If only one side is connected to the same as fuse #7, it's probably just the hot +12 power that is supplied as a bus to all fuses.

 

[dave1949]

Any idea what caused the fuse/block meltdown? One possibility would be a draw of a hair under 10 amps for a long duration. Another is a direct short, but the fuse managed to melt together in such a way as to keep conducting, for a short while at least.
Dave.

 

[jinman]

I checked the schematic and the reason fuse #6 and fuse #7 are tied together is a bus as I suggested. Fuse #6 is for the hazard flashers. This is a hot bus that is powered all the time, even when the ignition switch is OFF. It comes directly off of the 40 amp main fuse. This allows the hazard flashers and headlights to be turned on when the key is OFF.

 

[Cdawg]

When you say "cross-wired" do you mean in parallel or only one side connected to the same bus? If only one side is connected to the same as fuse #7, it's probably just the hot +12 power that is supplied as a bus to all fuses.

A better term would have been jumpered. There is a jumper from 6 to 7.

I checked the schematic and the reason fuse #6 and fuse #7 are tied together is a bus as I suggested. Fuse #6 is for the hazard flashers. This is a hot bus that is powered all the time, even when the ignition switch is OFF. It comes directly off of the 40 amp main fuse. This allows the hazard flashers and headlights to be turned on when the key is OFF.

 

[Cdawg]

Any idea what caused the fuse/block meltdown? One possibility would be a draw of a hair under 10 amps for a long duration. Another is a direct short, but the fuse managed to melt together in such a way as to keep conducting, for a short while at least.
Dave.

No idea why it melted. It was strange though. The plastic on half the fuse was gone and the blade below where the plastic should have been was welded in to the blade socket. I don't have a good enough camera to get a good detail or I would post a picture.

 

[hcormier]

I have a TC 45 that wouldn't start, after running good all day. Replaced an old battery, but it still would not turn over. Found a melted fuse block, but the 40 amp fuse was still good. Dealer says I have to replace the entire wiring harness, for $500+! Any tips on how to tie an external fuse into the line?

 

[jinman]

Any tips on how to tie an external fuse into the line?

Do you need to replace only one fuse? Remember, a blown fuse is an indication of another problem. A melted fuse block is an indication of a very BIG problem. Do you have any idea what caused these problems? You may have to find the problem first. Don't make the mistake of fixing the symptom. Were the fuses the right size, or maybe a wrong fuse causing the wires and fuse holder to overload. . . just sayin'.