TC33D and CountyLine Rotary Cutter 4 foot

[Lab Guy]

CountyLine Rotary Cutter, 4 ft. ​

4.3
SKU: 212723099

I had a rusted out HC48 (Heritage Cutter 48) that I had to replace. Apparently, in my part of the country, I was told it would take another year to get one. So I was driving by a TSC in the area and bought a CountyLine 4ft cutter.

There was some assembly required after I dragged off the back of my truck. I have a quick disconnect that needed some adjustment thanks to help from a neighbor that's a retired diesel mechanic. You have to buy a quart of the 80W-90 gear oil; make sure to follow the instructions to open the top and other plug so the gearbox is not overfilled. You will still have at least half a quart left.

I greased the u-joints, stuffed grease inside the rear wheel axle and support hole on the cutter. It will be necesssary to install the support frames as well. Watch your fingers while assembling and connecting. I had to remove the cone guards on each end of the shaft, otherwise, there was no way to install the shaft onto the cutter gearbox or easily connect to the tractor's PTO shaft. I guess it's 'safe' because most people would never be able to use the thing. Anyway, a flat blade at the base of the cones took them off. I put one cone on the cutter backwards so at least that part is protected from rain a bit.

I ran it a bit yesterday, so there is this whining noise coming from it. I don't have really thick grass to cut yet since it's winter, but it seems to work okay for the thin stuff I was cutting.

I watched another video or two of someone using this cutter with a smaller John Deere and overall this cutter got good reviews. It's made in China, so while I hate supporting the Chinese economy, there was nowhere else to get one and I did not want to wait since prices will go up. The HC48 dealer told me there were at least three price increases last year.

I also bought a package of shear bolts (5) for $15 plus tax. I hope I don't need them, but I got the last package on the shelf.

I put some 'Blast' spray oil on the bolts holding the blades. I have a mechanic neigbhor that I would like to help me take off the bolts so I can put some anti-seize compound in case the blades need to be removed in the future.

 

[RickB]

Be sure to go back later and check the gearbox oil level. Depending on the design it can take a while to fill the void below the upper output shaft bearing.

 

[Lab Guy]

Be sure to go back later and check the gearbox oil level. Depending on the design it can take a while to fill the void below the upper output shaft bearing.

Okay, thanks for the tip. If one does not read closely, the manual for the cutter gives the impression it's the entire 1 quart used, but it's not.

I only operated it a few minutes yesterday. Is this 'filling' something that takes a long operating time?

 

[RickB]

It's more about the speed at which thick gear lube passes through a roller bearing if there is no other path.

 

[jeff9366]

I put some 'Blast' spray oil on the bolts holding the blades. I have a mechanic neigbhor that I would like to help me take off the bolts so I can put some anti-seize compound in case the blades need to be removed in the future.

I would not put anti-seize compound on the blade bolts. You don't want a blade to fly off with potentially lethal consequences. If you need to change a blade plan to use a socket and a piece of pipe over the socket handle for leverage.

 

[RickB]

Anti-seize on the threads and shank of the blade bolts is an excellent preventative. Properly tightened they will not come loose.