TC35D Dead

[RDrancher]

This morning I went out to unload from the trailer. One clunk out of the starter then nothing. No dash lights, no solenoid clicking, no relays buzzing...nothing. I just replaced the battery so I thought maybe the alt wasn't functioning. Hooked up to the Super Duty but still nothing.

I had a particularly tough clearing job yesterday so I checked the PTO switch first, which seems to be functioning fine. Also checked the seat safety, which I have jumped, but that connection seems fine too.

I checked all of the fuses, including the main 40 amp fuse and all look good.

So with no dash lights at all, whats my checklist? Keep in mind that my manuals were stolen from my truck...so please be a as descriptive as possible.

 

[jinman]

Did you check fuse #2 with an ohmeter? Do you have a fuse in that slot or a self-resetting circuit breaker? Fuse #4 supplies the instrument panel and relay power to the headlights, but fuse #7 supplies power to the bulbs once the relay is energized. Check your headlights for operation.

If you had a complete electrical failure and all the fuses are good, you have to consider your battery cable connections (both ends) and the ignition (key) switch. BTW: The hazard flashers don't go through the key switch. So, if they work, it points to the key switch as your problem.

I would not waste time troubleshooting PTO, Neutral Sensing, or the seat switch circuits if I had complete electrical failure like you described. It has to be something else.

Also, my starter fails/sticks on my tractor and I have to go to start several times to get it to catch and turn over sometimes. Maybe two or three times per year it will do that. I repeatedly turn the key to start and it just clicks, then normally kicks off after 6-10 trys.

 

[Jerry/MT]

This morning I went out to unload from the trailer. One clunk out of the starter then nothing. No dash lights, no solenoid clicking, no relays buzzing...nothing. I just replaced the battery so I thought maybe the alt wasn't functioning. Hooked up to the Super Duty but still nothing.

I had a particularly tough clearing job yesterday so I checked the PTO switch first, which seems to be functioning fine. Also checked the seat safety, which I have jumped, but that connection seems fine too.

I checked all of the fuses, including the main 40 amp fuse and all look good.

So with no dash lights at all, whats my checklist? Keep in mind that my manuals were stolen from my truck...so please be a as descriptive as possible.

I'd start by seeing if you have battery voltage at the small wire connection to the starter solenoid when you try a start. if you don't, put a jumper across each interlock switch (clutch, transmission, seat, pto, etc) and then see if you have voltage. You might have a failed open interlock switch or one that needs adjusting. If the solenoid is being pulled in you can usually hear it.

Make sure that your battery cables and terminals are "tight and brite" and that there is no internal corrosion in the cable itself.

You can check the starter by jumping directly from the battery to the starter solennoid "big" connections but MAKE SURE THE TRACTOR IS NOT IN GEAR! If it turns the engine over, the starters good.

Tap the starter with a block of wood. They can sometimes "stick'.

 

[RDrancher]

Jim, all fuses were checked out with the ohmeter. The 7.5 amp (to the right of the metal circuit breaker) showed blown, but when I replaced it there was no change. Just for my own satisfaction I replaced the circuit breaker with a fuse to check and still nothing. No hazards at all, so that rules out the switch? Battery and cables are new but I will check the battery again and bypass just to make sure.

Jerry, I will check the starter now.

It's not very encouraging when you go through the checklist with the dealer's service guy and he says...hmmm.

 

[barbqranch]

I would turn the key to the run position and maybe turn on something else that uses power, and then take your volt meter and ground the negative lead to the frame, then start measuring voltage. You should get 12 volts at the battery terminal, then follow the cable and get 12 volts at the other end, etc. until you get zero where you should have 12.

 

[RDrancher]

Thought is was the ground. Cleaned it and it started, but did it again on the next try. Ended up being a bad (new) battery ground cable. Replaced it and ready to get back to work tomorrow.

Thanks folks!

 

[jinman]

Awesome! Now, go make some money.:laughing:

 

[RDrancher]

Awesome! Now, go make some money.:laughing:

No kidding. I took off today to get new tires on the trailer and rebuild the brakes. There goes my Saturday!

Can't complain though...business is real good.

 

[gmason]

I had mine not start and appear dead even after replacing the battery . Traced the issue to a bad ground. I replaced the ground wire and cleaned the connection to the bolt to the tractor frame and everything was fine then
Gary

 

[Jerry/MT]

Thought is was the ground. Cleaned it and it started, but did it again on the next try. Ended up being a bad (new) battery ground cable. Replaced it and ready to get back to work tomorrow.

Thanks folks!

Glad you found it and you're up and running! Thanks for coming back and telling us what you found.