TC45DA - won't start

[fishpick]

Got home - need to plow before the rain comes - jumped on tractor - turned key - lights came on, waited for glow light to go off - it did - turned key - DEAD - no more lights or sounds.

I poped the hood, yanked off the battery connectors - cleaned it up, tested (9.5V) threw the quick jump charger on there - tried to start...

Starter knocks but won't turn... then it sounds like a relay going crazy somewhere below the fuse array...

Going back out to screw w/ starter solenoid but thought a quick post (as I came in to get manual) would make sense should I miss the mark.

I know there's a bunch of posts out there from searching about the starter - but none mention the super fast relay clicking sound I'm getting too... And I get that if I turn the key or not (starter knocking only when key turned). Ohh - one more data point - if I pull the 7.5A fuse that manages the glow plugs and voltage reg... I still get the knock on the starter when I turn the key but the relay freaking out sound never comes along... Any thoughts?

Things never fail when you don't need them! Back to the barn for me.

 

[lhfarm]

I'd double check the charge on the battery. I had a similar situation and the battery was bad, not holding a charge. I didn't try to start it with a quick charger.

Good luck

 

[fishpick]

I think the battery is mad - yes - that's a discovery... but I would thing it would start with a 100A quick starter on it. Could confirm with jumper cables.

Pulled side shroud on op platform behind starter... holy cr@p there's some NASA level of electrical on this tractor... there's a relay in there that's doing all the clicking - but I can't tell from the schematics which one and why (lower row - last one on the right - Bosch)

I'm still digging.

 

[fishpick]

Well - I guess ??? it's the battery. I just tried jumping it from the Silverado and the relay is quiet, the glow plugs acutally "heat up and then shut off" - and the starter "sorta" turned over once then went back to knocking... tried it a couple of times with the wife in the truck getting the RPM's up... but boy did the truck light dim when I hit the key. Never have I seen a battery kill something to the point it can't be jumped - but guess there's a first.

now - the NH dealer is closed - anyone care to cross reference battery for me to a part number I can get at Advanced Auto Parts or Wally World? Anyone, anyone? Bueller? Bueller?

 

[jinman]

I think you will need to leave your charger on that battery for at least an hour before trying to start the tractor. At 9.5 volts, it is very weak. I'd remove the battery and then jump directly from the truck battery without the tractor battery in the circuit. Right now your tractor battery is part of the problem with getting enough voltage/current to the starter. The buzzing relay is evidence of this.

I have used just a jumper battery connected to my tractor's battery cables to start my tractor. It didn't turn over at full speed, but it was enough to start the tractor. You just have to remove the old battery so it is not contributing to current drain.

As a final effort, you can temporarily remove your truck battery and install it into the tractor. Even if it won't fit into the clamps, it should sit on the battery shelf and let you attach the tractor's battery cables. That should get you started for sure. After the tractor is started, you should be able to remove the battery and the tractor will keep running. Make sure the positive lead doesn't touch ground if you do this.

 

[fishpick]

I moved on - more than enough to do on a small farm in April.
I plan on taking the battery to an auto parts store tomorrow and getting a replacemment. Looked at the date on the NH - poor thing is 7 years old!
Anyhow - may have discovered a super small radiator leak in the process.

 

[DocHeb]

Anyhow - may have discovered a super small radiator leak in the process.

This series of tractors had problems with batteries out-gassing and leaking onto the radiator as the fan pulls air through. While you have the battery out take the time to clean up everything and repaint any bare metal for protection.

 

[fishpick]

Was the battery - ended up replacing with NH ag battery - little beefier and figured for the whole $18 more it keeps my dealer open AND I'm not putting a leak potential infront of expensive cooling stuff. Put it it, started her up like nothing ever happened.
Every dead battery is a new learning experience.
As for the radiator leak - I think there may be something... but it isn't rust - it isn't visable - and it looks like it's been there for a long, long time. So - never mind

 

[jinman]

Great! I hope you get at least as many years on the new battery as the old one, maybe even more.:thumbsup: