Those 6-8 Damaged Teeth

[WranglerX]

While hand filing chain today noticed there is 6-8 teeth that have more bluntness and did not come to sharp chisel point as all the other teeth did with a few strokes of file....

Do i really file the blunt teeth until they are sharp (lots of file strokes) or just keep applying a few strokes when I do regular chain filing and over time with the removal of materials (a few file strokes) the chisel points will eventually come back as the removal of material on all the teeth even out the wear......

 

[ruffdog]

If the blunted teeth are evenly distributed around the chain and are also on both sides, doing what you are doing is fine. If the blunted teeth are all on one side or all together, I would fully sharpen them. Most times I just fully sharpen the dulled teeth though.

 

[old and tired]

Write off the chain or grind them all down to the same. Are the blunt teeth on just one side? or both sides?

 

[WranglerX]

Both sides...

 

[5030]

Buy a new loop. Not that expensive. In fact, I keep a few extra's all the time.

 

[old and tired]

If it cuts straight, I'd just run it after applying a few strokes, sooner or later it will sharpen to a point!

 

[xyz123]

IMO just take those one down till sharpened. Test cut and see if cutting straight.

When doing folks chain I come across a short one I just do that one instead of doing the whole chain down to that one. Because sometimes it would take alot of chain cutter length down doing.

But I try and find the shorter cutter most times and make all the rest same if not to much off. But unless like I said above.

 

[WranglerX]

Buy a new loop. Not that expensive. In fact, I keep a few extra's all the time.

With 90% still useable cutter (each tooth) still on "loop", don't think it a candidate to discard at about $40 a loop...

 

[John_Mc]

If you use a progressive depth gauge tool to set your raker height, it's far less important to keep all teeth the same length, since each raker is customized for the individual associated tooth. Non-progressive tools or methods require keeping teeth the same length for them to work correctly, since they bridge two or more teeth to measure a raker's height.

When I use a progressive depth gauge tool to set all the raker heights, I'll regularly just sharpen each tooth until sharp, even if a few are way out of whack. I'll still make some effort to keep them in the ballpark, but even if some are way out, the saw still cuts straight. So if all of the teeth one one side get smashed on a rock, I can just file each side until sharp, use the progressive depth gauge to adjust the rakers, and it cuts just fine.

Progressive depth gauge tools:

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  Husky Depth Gauge tool.jpg

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Non-progessive depth gauge methods:

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  oregon style depth gauge.gif

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  Pferd Chain Sharp CS-X.jpg

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