Top n Tilt on Grand L '30 Series

[glennmac]

Top n Tilt on Grand L \'30 Series

Usually knowledgeable dealers are giving me inconsistent info on the physical set-up and pricing on TnT. What is clear is that Kubota has a TnT "kit" that lists for $700. Separately, also listed are stackable rear remote outlet/valve/lever kit packages: $600 for the first pair of outlets/levers, $400 for a stackable second outlet/lever, another $400 for a stackable third outlet/lever.

The confusion is whether you can, and what you get if, you just order the TnT kit. I can frame the questions this way.

1. Are the two sets of remote outlets/levers ($600 + $400) a prerequisite for the TnT kit (another $700)? One dealer says yes. This is the way it was on the Grand L '10 series; you install two sets of outlets and run short quick couple hoses from them to the TnT cylinders. Another dealer after checking with Kubota says, no; on the new '30 series the TnT kit is complete and self-contained, presumably including levers. But he doesn't know how the TnT cylinders and hoses are plumbed into the tractor.

2. If the second dealer is correct, how and where are the hoses plumbed? Are these hoses available as "rear outlets" for other purposes if the TnT cylinders are disconnected from them?

Any info, preferably accurate, would be appreciated.

 

[CTyler]

Re: Top n Tilt on Grand L \'30 Series

When I asked my dealer about it he said ballpark figure was around 1k+ for TnT and valves/remotes. They would stack the valves and add quick connects. He metioned the prices seperately, basicaly what you posted. Perhaps because I have an existing valve/remote, not sure.

Perhaps they offer TnT as a package and seperately. I didn't get into specifics.

 

[JATO_RaT]

Re: Top n Tilt on Grand L \'30 Series

To answer question #2, the factory uses a quick disconnect block utilizing up to 6 disconnects or quick release hydraulic fittings. From there, there are hoses with male fittings that plug into this block. The other ends tie to the top and tilt cylinder. I opted not to go with the factory setup. Its very clean, but I just wanted my valve setup in the conventional position rather then at the 3 pt hitch lift lever area. The 3 slots are there for the factory TnT. Pricing and all the rest I am derfinitely not sure about. I know that you can continue to stack up to 2 valves to the original valve. The top link cylinder on them is 24" in the closed position which made it necessary to add 4" to my existing top link hydraulic cylinder off my International. The extra length is needed because of the draft links with the easy hook up extensions. If you really want some good info about Kubotas accesories, talk to the guys over at tractorsmart.com. Rat

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Re: Top n Tilt on Grand L \'30 Series

Recently installed on a L4330HSTC. Top-N-Tilt kit (L8326 - $700). Requires only 2 remote valves but we installed 3 for use with a hyd box scraper. First postion valve base kit (L8305 - $400) and double acting valve (L8303 - $200) OR float dentent valve (L8304 - $250). 2nd postion stacking kit (L8306 - $200) and 3rd postion stacking kit (L8307 - $200). 2nd and 3rd postion each require one of the two valves listed above (L8303 or L8307). The "L" numbers are order codes and all prices are MSRP not including installation.

 

[hayden]

Re: Top n Tilt on Grand L \'30 Series

This is a slight deviation, but it reminds me of comments you made some time ago regarding the usefulness of the tilt part of a top and tilt.

After using both for about 2 years now, yesterday I removed the Tilt side. I concluded, as you predicted, that Tilt is extremely useful for a back blade, box blade (let's not debate box blades), or other grading implement, but I've found it to be a downright nusance for everything else. For a mower, backhoe, chipper, splitter, winch, etc., I prefer a solid, stay-in-position fixed link. I was constantly adjusting it for field mowing to prevent (not successfully) digging into the ground, trying to balance the backhoe attachment, etc. If it were benign, that would be one thing, but it's a downright pain in the butt. Where you need it, it's priceless, but otherwise get rid of it.

Fortunately, the Tilt cylinder is easy to remove/replace so I'm going to be swapping it out as needed.

 

[glennmac]

Re: Top n Tilt on Grand L \'30 Series (Confusion)

I appreciate the responses but am not sure I am any clearer on my original questions.

Rephrasing the questions using the part numbers: Will a Tnt Kit (L8326-$700) by itself give a fully functional top and tilt including two operational levers in the factory slots? One dealer thinks, yes, because no prerequisites to the L8326 kit are listed in the dealer sales book and because he talked to someone named Tim at Kubota HQ. Rat's answer lends some support to this, since he talks of different physical implementations. (I am compelled to observe that Rat must be a dealer's dream: he buys zillions of big tractors yet is "definitely not sure about" pricing. ;-)) This would give TnT for only $700 less whatever discount off retail one can negotiate. Pretty cheap, especially if you can disconnect the hoses from the TnT cylinders and use them for other rear implements.

Or, are the following parts a prerequisite to the L8326 TnT kit: a L8305/L8303 first position stackable base kit and valve ($600) plus a L8306/L8303 second position
stackable kit and valve ($400). This is what ktcmah suggests, and I take it he works for Deen Implement. This implementation would cost $1700 less discount. Much too expensive. (Especially given the marginal usefullnes of tilt, as confirmed by Hayden the Hydraulic Tinkerer.)

CTyler's quote of about $1000 for a two stacked valve TnT is inconsistent with the pricing of $700 or $1700.

It remains a mystery to me.

 

[_RaT_]

Re: Top n Tilt on Grand L \'30 Series (Confusion)

Glenmac, if it helps at all, I paid $1300 for:

1. top link cylinder quality brand, well made (Gannon).
2. Tilt cylinder, Gearmore brand and appropriate attachment bolt to 3 pt hitch.

3. 3 spool valve, Dinoil brand, not sure of Kubotas, but it is quite possible even better then mine.

4. Bracket assembly custom made attachs to ROPS, fully adjsutable.

5. 6 hoses about 16" long off 3 spool valve all with male or female conectors. Those are followed by hoses that attach to the cylinders with the appropriate ends, either male or female (San Francisco excluded)

6. Fittings to attach too TnT hydraulic cylinders
7. All the necessary plumbing to provide hydraulic resources to the 3 spool valve, in essence, two long 3/8" hoses/fittings and aluminum block to attach to power beyond just in front of the hydraulic filter.

Thats about $400 dollars off Kubotas asking price for the equivalent setup. Kubotas is more deluxe, includes a cast block for six quick disconnects, uses Gannon hydraulic cylinders, and high quality hydraulic couplers (SafeWay brand). Mine are Pioneer.

I opted for my dealers because it was less costly, I already had a top link cylinder so the total price was actually less then $1300, I like the position of my 3 spool valve better then the 3 slotted (personnel preference and not a big deal)

P.S. Why are you asking this question? Do you or are you thinking about an L30? Mine is awesome, a word I don't use lightly. I have used it to describe the Harley landscape rake and my new L3830 HST.

Rat...

 

[Bird]

Re: Top n Tilt on Grand L \'30 Series

Glenn, I don't know what's included in the kit you're talking about, but I do know that my dealer, in 1999, when he couldn't find a top 'n tilt kit for my B2710, told me that Kubota did have one for the larger tractors and that it cost about $1,400, so it sounds like Rat's price is about right.

 

[glennmac]

Re: Top n Tilt on Grand L \'30 Series

Well, Rat's setup is so customized that it doesn't shed much light on Kubota's factory implementation and pricing, but both the old and new Grand L's did and do have the TnT kits. I was hoping that the new one was less expensive. I'll just have to press the dealer for the scoop.

Rat, where are your valve handles if not in the slots? Protruding off the ROPS?

Yes, I've seriously been thinking about trading in my 2910 for a 3130 (or '34 or '38). The '30 seems like such a price bargain for all the features and hydraulic power. I can actually upgrade and lower my monthly payments. But I worry a little that the 3130 is a little light on hp for its weight; it has a worse hp to weight ratio than the 2910. Hence I think about the '34 or '38, but then it starts to become too expensive.

I would go to a rear discharge 72" (or maybe 84") Landpride RFM. Maybe trade my very experienced Woods MD 160 5' cutter for a 6' Woods Brushbull, just to get a new and bigger mower for all the fields I've cleared.

I also need something "custom" to amuse me. Have spent substantial time researching R1W radial tires, which is my biggest want and need, and will be posting my research info soon. Am thinking about a 4n1, but can't really justify the cost for something I don't think would be that useful when I think seriously about it. (How often would I really need to clamp onto something with jaws.) I really would like a hydraulic toplink for lifting the mower and adjusting my backblade snowplow, but have never believed tilt would be of any use to me. But I don't want to spend $1300 for TnT, and I think just a toplink setup would cost at least $800.

Ah, I don't know.

 

[_RaT_]

Re: Top n Tilt on Grand L \'30 Series

I would agree that with TnT, it's the first "T" that really matters the most. The tilt has usefulness with a boxscraper, but even at that, the top link is vital for boxscraper work. I have my valves just above the handle you would use to get on the tractor and back a little, I think I have a picture posted somewhere in the L30's thread I started. I went the route I did because I knew factory TnT is very costly. When I had a L48, the dealer gave it to me at his cost which was $1500. It was about the amount I "lost" on selling it. Remember though, I had cut and moved about 2000 yards of material and several other large projects including a considerable amount of grading with it. Not a bad rental charge. I kept the toothbar for it and its on my L3830. I, like you, think the L3130 is a bargain tractor. The larger loader and as far as HP goes, does it use the same engine as the 2910? It's torque is only 10 lbs less then my L3830 and a couple less then a L3430. Anyway, you are right, TnT is costly, I never priced it from Kubota simply because I knew where it was with my L48. For the handy, you could purchase your own valve(s) and get your own hydraulic top link going at for much less. It will require some custom work and figuring out, a dealer could certainly get the power beyond adapter for you. Custom or premade hoses can be had for reasonable costs. Quick couplers are always pricey considering the amount I used which was 8.

Another note, my L3830 handles my 84" RFM very easily with the exception of very thick, very wet and going uphill grasses. In that case I slow to about 2.5 mph and resume to about 4.8 to 5.5 mph. The more I use the brains feature of this tractor the more I like it. At first I did not care about it. I have yet to bring the tractor to full RPM as its still in its "break in" phase. I am absolutely thrilled with this tractor. The ease of loader removal, the steering sharpness, quietness, and the hydrostatic transmission is superb. I assume the L3130 HST is similar. Rat