Tough Tire Paint ???

[doxford jim]

Hi Guys,

I am wanting to paint steel rims for our harsh winter road conditions (salt, sand, grit and chemicals etc.) These are for my pickup and I will be driving though salt and chemically treated snow and slush.

I have not thought before about road salt damage, but with the new wheels I have just bought, I would like to get the maximum protection for minimal cost.

I have read a bit about coating/painting wheels and wonder what you all might recommend. I have heard the Plastikote has a new wheel paint out - anyone tried it? What other companies sell tough and durable wheel paint that are readily available.

I also would like to repair the old wheels I have that are chipped and starting to signs of rust buildup. What would your recommendation be for this situation ?

I am sure that any paint good for road vehicles would be just as good for tractor wheels, so any info would be helpful for all.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Jim

 

[doxford jim]

Oooooops - I meant "Touch Wheel Paint" - my mistake.

 

[varmint]

As I have posted before, I think two-part epoxy primer is incredible... I have used it on several metal items subject to weather and harsh use, and it seems almost indestructible. The photo shows my bucket's cutting edge- the gray is that primer, after it was used multiple times to scrap up gravel and stone from a paved road where it had washed down after heavy rains. The Kubota orange is worn off, while the primer remains.

 

[Pepsiboy]

For the old rims, I would suggest sand or bead blast then powder coat in your choice of colors. For the new rims, you might try what I did many years ago. That was to take the new rims (before mounting tires) and give them at least 2 coats of high temperature engine paint. Let it dry at least 2 days between coats and at least 3 days before mounting. I did this a long time ago when I lived in Minnesota. (Yeah, I DO know about salt damage.)

Best of luck.
Dave

 

[Gary Fowler]

For a hard surface, you cant beat a 2 part epoxy paint. I used a Dupont 25P many years ago to paint industrial piping in a powerhouse and it was incredible. It would stick to any surface including oily/ greasy or wet areas (you could actually roll it on in a light rain), just wipe off the excess lump of grease and paint over it, could barely beat if off afterward with a chipping hammer. It can be brushed, rolled or sprayed. It was a bit expensive even in 1988 it was $100 a gallon but was cheaper than blasting and painting which we were not able to do anyway inside of a building on the field weld areas. Prep was hand wire brushing or power wire brushing for severely rusted areas, the rest was just a wipe with a rag.

 

[bumperm]

Two part epoxy paints are tough and adhere exceptionally well for sure, one reason epoxy primer is popular in many demanding applications like aircraft frames and hangar floors. However, most epoxy paint does not stand up to UV, tending to chalk over time. Two part PU (polyurethane) top coat, over epoxy primer, is one solution to the epoxy/UV issue, as PU is much more weather resistant (used on many aluminum and composite aircraft).

Another choice is powder coat, as suggested by a previous poster, which is really a generic name for the process, as there are different powder coat formulations for different characteristics.

Then there's good old cheap rattle can :c), repaint more often.

bumper

 

[Danno1]

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Well I'll tell ya. If you want to do it on the cheap, I've used Rustoleum Clear Coat over Rusto Flat black over Rusto Primer. Put on 15 min to 1/2 hour in between each coat. Do it on a hot sunny day in the summer. Let them bake in the sun for a few hours. Sometimes I've base coated w Cold Galvanize but haven't really noticed any difference.

Done this on road tires on daily drivers that get used all winter. Never had it peel or flake off. And yes, we have sand and salt up here too.



.

 

[doxford jim]

Hi Guys,
Thanks for your replies/suggestion - much appreciated.
I have been doing a bit of searching on line and of the paints mentioned, I can find little in the way of local retail sales in Canada (which does make a difference at times).
I have been thinking that rattle cans might be the way to go but don't know what the best paint would be wheel application. One brand I can buy locally is VHT Epoxy paint in our local Canadian Tire store. Has anyone else tried this brand out - if so what do you think?
Another paint that looks to be very good is POR15 and it is rust treatment paint I believe. Supposed to be good and can be bought in a rattle can. Anyone tried this brand ?

Stop Rust with POR-15® - We Know What Permanent Means!

I think this stuff would be great for chassis frame and underbody treatment too - what it is designed to do.
I would be interested to know what others experiences have been.
I only go into town once a week (40 mile drive) , so I will check out what is available when I go in on Tuesday.
Will follow up later once I have something to write about.
Again, thanks for comments and suggestions - I am looking for suggestions.

Cheers.
Jim

 

[bumperm]

Oh, one thing I forgot to mention: pre-paint surface prep is really important for best results. A phosphoric acid etch works wonders on both ferrous and aluminum items. This sounds complicated but it ain't. Products such as Jabsco Metal Prep (Home Depot etc) contain dilute phosphoric acid and surficants, brush on, wait 30 seconds or so (follow directions of course) and hose off. Dry, prime and paint.

The acid etch converts rust so it can be painted over. It etches aluminum to prevent it from oxidizing under the paint which would cause it to peel. I also do a brief acid wash prior to anodizing aluminum to make sure the surface has no contaminants.

bumper

 

[Ram4x4]

For the money and hassle you'll spend to do an epoxy paint, just do what I do....use the old, steel wheels in the winter and save your nice wheels for summer. That way you can put on (and leave on) the winter tires on the old wheels. No need to keep swapping tires at the shop every season. Just jack it up and swap wheels, and done...unless you just HAVE to be pretty in the winter too