Tractor Safety
- Thread starter richn
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JerryG
Super Member
Are you working on the wheels or something else?
RoyJackson
Rest in Peace
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- John Deere 4052R Cab,, Deere 855D UTV, Z920A Zero Turn Mower and assorted implements
Also, what kind of tractor and how big?
At the minimum, just removing both rear wheels:
(Please ensure the wheel bolts or nuts are loosened (just broken loose, not removed!) before you start jacking.) The tractor should be parked on a level concrete surface. Level is extremely important!
1) Two Jack Stands of sufficient capacity to support the weight of the tractor with the wheels on the axle.
2) Floor (preferably) or Bottle jack or sufficient capacity to lift the rear of the tractor and tire/wheel assemblies: I jack directly on the drawbar bracket and raise the wheels up so there is ¼ to ½ inch clearance (note, you may have to go a bit higher to accomodate the jack stands, then lower to the clearance above). Since I use a floor jack, I don't block the front wheels. As the floor jack raises, the tractor will move back slightly (jacks in an arc rather then straight up). You can block the front wheel if your floor jack has wheels or casters.
If you've got to use a bottle jack, make sure the pump handle is long enough that you won't be under the tractor. Other then the bottle jack lift straight up, the procedure is the same as the floor jack. BTW, I never get under the tractor. I use a length of wood (anything will work) to push the jack stands into position under the axle.
3) An assistant to help handle those big tire/wheel assemblies. This is especially important if the tires are filled!
That's enough to remove the rear wheels. If your tractor is larger, you may want to consider letting a dealer or professional tire shop handle this job.
I've only had to do this when I had my 670 (which had much smaller tires then the 790's). I followed exactly the procedure I just typed, including the assistant (a herniated disk and loaded tires are a bad mix). In this case, I had a leaking tire. The assistant also helped load the tire/wheel in to the pick up bed.
If I'm checking the inflation of the rear tires, I'll jack it (again, under the draw bar bracket) just enough so I can rotate the valve stem(s) to 12 O'Clock. I do not put the jack stands under the axle when checking inflation.
Be safe and good luck!
At the minimum, just removing both rear wheels:
(Please ensure the wheel bolts or nuts are loosened (just broken loose, not removed!) before you start jacking.) The tractor should be parked on a level concrete surface. Level is extremely important!
1) Two Jack Stands of sufficient capacity to support the weight of the tractor with the wheels on the axle.
2) Floor (preferably) or Bottle jack or sufficient capacity to lift the rear of the tractor and tire/wheel assemblies: I jack directly on the drawbar bracket and raise the wheels up so there is ¼ to ½ inch clearance (note, you may have to go a bit higher to accomodate the jack stands, then lower to the clearance above). Since I use a floor jack, I don't block the front wheels. As the floor jack raises, the tractor will move back slightly (jacks in an arc rather then straight up). You can block the front wheel if your floor jack has wheels or casters.
If you've got to use a bottle jack, make sure the pump handle is long enough that you won't be under the tractor. Other then the bottle jack lift straight up, the procedure is the same as the floor jack. BTW, I never get under the tractor. I use a length of wood (anything will work) to push the jack stands into position under the axle.
3) An assistant to help handle those big tire/wheel assemblies. This is especially important if the tires are filled!
That's enough to remove the rear wheels. If your tractor is larger, you may want to consider letting a dealer or professional tire shop handle this job.
I've only had to do this when I had my 670 (which had much smaller tires then the 790's). I followed exactly the procedure I just typed, including the assistant (a herniated disk and loaded tires are a bad mix). In this case, I had a leaking tire. The assistant also helped load the tire/wheel in to the pick up bed.
If I'm checking the inflation of the rear tires, I'll jack it (again, under the draw bar bracket) just enough so I can rotate the valve stem(s) to 12 O'Clock. I do not put the jack stands under the axle when checking inflation.
Be safe and good luck!
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
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- 51,575
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- Central florida
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
Good info there from RJ.
Block all tires that are still on the ground.
If no jack stans.. then use solid good wood cribbing
Absolutely NO concrete blocks.. especially the hollow cell kind. Event he solid ones will crack, break and split side to side in an emergency setting.
I usually get the stands in, then relieve air pressure in the tire and then use a hand cart to get the bigguns off. Nothing like letting a 2-400# tire fall on ya. And if it does fall.. let it.. worry about getting it up once it stops moving.
I really agree with the info onthe big tractors. I have a 4500# hi lift jack.. it was ALL it would do to jack up my big NH just to take a front off. if a rear ever goes.. it will be a farm call. I'll pay the 75$ just so i don't cripple myself.
Any time I work on stuff that can 'trap' me.. i have a cellphone on my person.. not setting on my bench.. but on my person... Ya can't crawl with a 9000# tractor on yer leg.. etc..
Soundguy
Block all tires that are still on the ground.
If no jack stans.. then use solid good wood cribbing
Absolutely NO concrete blocks.. especially the hollow cell kind. Event he solid ones will crack, break and split side to side in an emergency setting.
I usually get the stands in, then relieve air pressure in the tire and then use a hand cart to get the bigguns off. Nothing like letting a 2-400# tire fall on ya. And if it does fall.. let it.. worry about getting it up once it stops moving.
I really agree with the info onthe big tractors. I have a 4500# hi lift jack.. it was ALL it would do to jack up my big NH just to take a front off. if a rear ever goes.. it will be a farm call. I'll pay the 75$ just so i don't cripple myself.
Any time I work on stuff that can 'trap' me.. i have a cellphone on my person.. not setting on my bench.. but on my person... Ya can't crawl with a 9000# tractor on yer leg.. etc..
Soundguy
Its an MF 202 Tires are 14.9x24 they are loaded but I plan on draining prior to removal. I need to relace a rim that is severly rotted from the brine solution. I like the idea of the hand cart. that should work well. My plan is to be very safe while doing this
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 51,575
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
Don't pull the center if you don't have to.. just the rim.. that will save some weight..
soundguy
soundguy
