ericm979
Super Member
Thanks for posting that link. I wish they'd update the manual to make it more readable but a video is better than nothing.
Gordon I don't think there is a way to turn off the automatic brake.
Tractors and wood! Show your pics
- Thread starter Bota4me
- Start date
Thanks for posting that link. I wish they'd update the manual to make it more readable but a video is better than nothing.
Gordon I don't think there is a way to turn off the automatic brake.
John_Mc
Elite Member
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2001
- Messages
- 4,045
- Location
- Monkton, Vermont
- Tractor
- NH TC33D Modified with belly pan, limb risers & FOPS. Honda Pioneer 520 & antique Coot UTV
The manual reads as though it were translated from the original Croation into Swahili by a native Chinese speaker before finally being translated into English.
You can just tie off the brake rope to something. However, I never bother with that. I do find the cable relaxes a hair when releasing the drive rope. As with most machines, you just get used to how it works after a while.
Mine has never been right; I’ve always had to tie off the rope whenever I pull it out. I doubt it ever will be now, I tried everything I could think of and messed with the adjustments more than I should have.
Every time I see a newer model it has more features than before... mostly minor things which don’t make it work harder, but still look rather handy.
Every time I see a newer model it has more features than before... mostly minor things which don’t make it work harder, but still look rather handy.
John_Mc
Elite Member
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2001
- Messages
- 4,045
- Location
- Monkton, Vermont
- Tractor
- NH TC33D Modified with belly pan, limb risers & FOPS. Honda Pioneer 520 & antique Coot UTV
My Uniforest 35E is an older model. I believe the brake engagement and release mechanism has been changed since I got mine, but I've not had the opportunity to look closely at a 35M.
On the 35E, I soon discovered that how you had the clutch adjusted affected the brake. If you had the clutch adjusted a bit too tight, the power cold still engage and disengage from the black rope. However, you had to hold tension on the red rope in order to keep the brake released while winching. This is because the mechanical linkage between the brake and power lever would only disengage the brake of the power lever moved far enough over in the "engaged" direction for the linkage to push the brake off. The tighter you had the clutch adjusted, the less motion of the power lever it took to engage the clutch. Tight enough, and the linkage between the power lever and the brake never never disengages: the clutch engages fully first and prevents further movement of the power lever. (There is some adjustment in that linkage as well, but figuring out what's going on with all of this is tough from just looking and reading the bad english in the manual.)
I suspect this is why the directions in the manual for adjusting the brake on the 35E are a bit different than what was shown in that video.
John_Mc
Elite Member
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2001
- Messages
- 4,045
- Location
- Monkton, Vermont
- Tractor
- NH TC33D Modified with belly pan, limb risers & FOPS. Honda Pioneer 520 & antique Coot UTV
what model do you have?
Mine is an M, but an early model. Every time I see a newer version they've added more, but as long as it pulls the log to me it's good enough. I found the piece about oiling the chain to be especially interesting, although I would have consulted the manual before doing anything.
ericm979
Super Member
I think that using chain lube for street motorcycles, carefully, would be the way to go. That kind of lube is made to stick to chains moving at high speeds.
That's what he said. Also to take it off before lubing, otherwise it will throw lubricant all over the clutch, rendering it useless.
