Tractors and wood! Show your pics

[Creamer]

Measure out 20" from the tip of your bar to where ever it lands on your saw, and there's your measurement right there, and it's always with you as long as that saw is in your hands.

I get them close enough so I rarely have to hold the saw up, but I see my helper checking himself every so often...

SR

That is what I have been doing. Just always looking for new ideas. I don't want to carry extra stuff.

It seems that when I used to cut at 16" it was pretty easy to get them very close but I have more trouble at 20".

 

[dieselcrawler]

Hi Greg,

I meant to comment before on the swing mill, thanks for the cool vid and pictures!

That was a righteous redneck repair on the saw bar bonding!

I always run 16" too, I like the added torque and control it gives me, even though I know I could be spreading the wear over more teeth with a longer bar and chain.

Why do you use the 16" ones?

Thanks again,
Thomas

I run 16's on all 3 of my saws, two stihl 025's, and my 'truck saw' (always in my truck for roadside emergency use), and MS170. I made the 20" to allow me to nibble down bigger trees with one of my 025's, but they are just not powerful enough to handle more than 16" bars for every day use. If I do need a real saw, I can borrow a stihl 650 any time I need. That's what I chunked down the saw logs with, 24" bar.

I normally cut firewood at 16", using the bar as a gauge if needed. I go with 16", so that 3 rows makes 48", to make figuring a full cord easy. (3 rows 4' tall, 8 long)

 

[PhysAssist]

I run 16's on all 3 of my saws, two stihl 025's, and my 'truck saw' (always in my truck for roadside emergency use), and MS170. I made the 20" to allow me to nibble down bigger trees with one of my 025's, but they are just not powerful enough to handle more than 16" bars for every day use. If I do need a real saw, I can borrow a stihl 650 any time I need. That's what I chunked down the saw logs with, 24" bar.

I normally cut firewood at 16", using the bar as a gauge if needed. I go with 16", so that 3 rows makes 48", to make figuring a full cord easy. (3 rows 4' tall, 8 long)

Also, for me anyway, since my Lopi wood stove only really likes to eat 18" and smaller logs, I can always get somewhere between 16" and 18" average logs w/o much thinking about it.

 

[Ryansweatt2004]

Here's my l3901 sitting at the edge of a five acre wood lot. Got pretty close to five cord of tree length stacked up last weekend. One pile of logs and one pile of tops.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I always get the longest bar I can on a saw. It's just handy I find. Less bending forward especially when limbing. Also, you pay just as much to have a longer chain sharpened, so why not? Doesn't mean you have to try and cut down bigger trees. I wish I had twice the bar on my Oregon (electric) pole saw!

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I always get the longest bar I can on a saw.................. so why not?

Because I don't like packing the extra weight around + many saws become unbalanced and more tiring to use.

Also, I don't like having to sharpen all the extra teeth and take all the extra rakers down...

The longer chain/bar's cost more too, and extra oil is needed to keep them oiled.

SR

 

[MossRoad]

I'd take a more powerful engine with a shorter bar over a maxxed out engine with a longer bar. Sometimes you just need that extra umph and there's nothing more discouraging than having a machine bog down.

 

[xring100]

I always get the longest bar I can on a saw. It's just handy I find. Less bending forward especially when limbing. Also, you pay just as much to have a longer chain sharpened, so why not? Doesn't mean you have to try and cut down bigger trees. I wish I had twice the bar on my Oregon (electric) pole saw!

Thats just not practical when you get into larger saws. Your talking about lbs of weight. I'd never limb with a 36"or 42" bar. I Have my own Oregon Tecomec chain grinder but the shops here charge 40% more to sharpern chains 24" or larger. If i didnt already have a 20" bar and 4 or 5 loops of chain id run a 16" bar on my ms361. I stick with a 25" bar on the 660 normaly. It does come in handy to have the big bar though

SR Is spot on here

 

[terryknight]

Thats just not practical when you get into larger saws. Your talking about lbs of weight. I'd never limb with a 36"or 42" bar. I Have my own Oregon Tecomec chain grinder but the shops here charge 40% more to sharpern chains 24" or larger. If i didnt already have a 20" bar and 4 or 5 loops of chain id run a 16" bar on my ms361. I stick with a 25" bar on the 660 normaly. It does come in handy to have the big bar though

SR Is spot on here

i agree as well. though it is nice to have a long bar for those times you need it.

 

[4570Man]

I bought my 372 with a 28" bar. That bar makes the saw front heavy and pretty pointless for cutting 14" wood. I bought a 20" bar for it which sees 95 percent of the use, and the balance is way better. I have been using a 35" cc saw with a 14" bar for for cutting limbs off. Besides being considerably lighter than my 51 cc saw with a 20" bar it is much easier to limb with because the shorter bar is easier to wield through brush.