Trailering a Power-Trac

[hoaglagd]

Am wondering if anyone out there has experience trailering a Power-Trac 422 or 425. I am considering purchasing one, but one of the issues is hauling it around. I have a 3000 pound gvw trailer hitch. That means if I have 1600 pounds of Power-trac and attachments, I can only have a 1400 pound trailer. I am not sure that I can get a dual axel trailer that weighs less than 1400 pounds.
Does anyone out there have experience hauling a Power-trac with a single axel trailer?

 

[KentT]

I have no experience with hauling a PT on a single-axle, but I've trailered one over 1,000 miles on a 14' dual-axle. I also have quite a bit of experience hauling other garden tractors on a 12' single-axle, however.

You'd certainly be borderline on a dual axle, but they pull far, far better than a single. If you were willing to pay the price for an aluminum dual-axle, you could just barely get under that 3,000 lbs with an attachment or two. You can get aluminum 12' or 14' trailers that weigh about 1,000 lbs. In comparison, I have the 14' version of this steel one, and it weighs right at 1500 lbs with the spare...

Hawkline Trailer

Before I bought this trailer, I strongly considered getting a 12' single-axle to replace the old 12' snowmobile trailer I'd been using. My neighbor, who has MUCH more trailer experience, kept telling me to go to the 14' dual-axle as a minimum. (He recommended 16' or bigger.) I finally chose to go with the 14' dual, and am glad I did. With a weight distributing hitch, this thing tows like a dream... even up to 70 MPH or so.

Back to your question, IMO you need at the very least a 12' trailer (PT with just a bucket on it) or better yet, 14' trailer (PT with a mower deck on it). Either of those, as a single axle, is going to require you to get the "balance" exactly right or you'll be putting too much or too little tongue weight on your hitch. Then there's the issue of brakes...

A dual-axle would work much, much better -- especially given the rear-engined PT... and a 16' trailer would work even better, allowing you to load several attachments and the PT. IMO, if you're going to be hauling it farther than across town, spend another couple hundred and replace your hitch with a Class III hitch so you can pull a bigger trailer -- IF -- your tow vehicle is rated to tow more....

Then, get at least a 14' dual axle, with electric brakes -- which will cost an additional couple hundred for the brake controller, installed. Give serious consideration to a 16' -- because it'll only cost about $100 - $150 more, and won't weigh a whole lot more either....

I just pulled my PT-425 from Mass to Tenn (900 miles) on a 14' trailer with a 60" finish mower deck, 48" rough-cut mower, 60" rake, and small HD rock bucket -- all on a 14' trailer. But, I had to stack the implements, and stand the finish mower deck up and strap it on to the siderails. A 16' or 18' trailer would've made it much easier....

BTW, I also had a boxblade, grapple bucket and minihoe in the bed of my pickup, so I was very close to my legal CGVW on a Dodge Dakota. My 2 cents, your mileage may vary...

 

[dturnmire]

I hauled my PT-180 (1260 lbs.) plus brush cutter (not sure how much it weighs) in the bed of my 1988 Chevy S-10 pickup from Virginia to North Georgia without any problems. I have also hauled it around over the past several months without any problems in my pickup. With the brush cutter it weighs as much as the PT-422.

That being said, you would probably be better off using a trailer.

 

[Barryh]

Kent,

For those of us that do not have / or want to spend 2,000 on a trailer at this time. How would you rate this trailer as just a (local) hauling tool to get from A to B? Trailer

I plan to buy 5 + acres still a few years away, to build a retirement home, but until then need something to move my PT as I have a Navigator with the tow package.

I know a lot of HF tools are total junk, but some of there items are a great buy. Anyone else had any experience with one of these trailers? /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

 

[ClintBlake]

I haul my 1999 model PT422 in a 5'x10' single axle trailer quite frequently. The trailer has a tilt bed with 2.5' sides and has a gvw of 2000# because of no trailer brakes. With my trailer, I back the PT on so more weight is forward of the axle. The 10' bed length means some attachments like the trencher will hang over the back. Weight has never been an issue, but if our refuse collection center (the main use for this trailer is hauling trash to the dump) allowed longer than 10' bed lengths, I would definitely opt for a 12' trailer just for more room.

If I want to carry more than a couple of attachments with the tractor, I use my 6'x16' enclosed trailer just for convenience.

 

[Barryh]

Well I guess that pretty much answers my question.

>> I back the PT on so more weight is forward of the axle. <<

This was also my thoughts. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[tracdoc]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have a 3000 pound gvw trailer hitch. )</font>

What is the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) for your tow vehicle? That is probably the most important primary consideration for towing. It is the maximum allowable weight including trailer + trailer cargo + passengers + trunk/bed cargo. That figure should be stamped on an inside door frame or available on-line. If your GVWR is high enough, you can always beef up your current 3k# hitch to accomodate the GVWR. That would open up more opportunities for you, too.

That said, I echo Kent's comments on ALUMINUM trailers and dual axles. They are considerably lighter and the weight savings can be used to carry cargo or to keep you under your GVWR limit. I have a 14' Featherlite dual axle open car hauler {HERE}. It weighs ~900#, and I don't think there are many 14-footer dual axle trailers that are much lighter than that.

I center the PT over the forward axle to provide sufficient tongue weight (important to prevent fishtailing). I then use a pair of 5,000# axle straps {HERE} around each ROPS tube where it is bolted to the front of the PT. I clip the rings of each axle strap together and secure to the deck eyes with 2" ratcheting straps {HERE}. That arrangement provides excellent downward, forward and outward securing forces. To secure the rear, I clip in two more of the 2" ratcheting straps to the hitch eye on the PT, and cinch those to the two outboard rear deck eyes. That gives 4-point security. I also engage the PT parking brake.

I can secure the PT in mere minutes on this trailer with this strapping arrangement, and I have trailered the PT with confidence some 200 miles from home to Tazewell, and back, and that's over some mighty hilly and twisty roads /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[KentT]

Barry,

If it were my $$, I wouldn't spend it that way. At the very least, I'd shop around (used, Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.) and get a 5' X 10' or 6' x 12' landscape-style utility trailer. If you're not buying a larger one with brakes, don't be afraid to look at used trailers. Everything is pretty visible making it easy to check condition (tires, etc.) and the two headache areas are wheel bearings and wiring -- neither of which is an expensive repair if needed.

I'm just suggesting that if you try hauling a PT on a trailer that small, you'll be immediately wishing you had something bigger...

A final caution -- trailering something heavy is SERIOUS business -- just imagine dropping your PT into the middle of a busy intersection, whether or not it's still attached to a trailer... Think not only of the damage to your equipment, but also of the liability of it hitting someone else, or them hitting it....

 

[tracdoc]

Barry,

I would only urge caution when considering that HF trailer, not so much because of it being from HF, but because of its construction. It has a load capacity of only 1,800# which is only 400# above the weight of the PT sans implements. Add a bucket and/or mower, and you'll be perilously close to the trailer load limit. Second, the wheels are only 12" diameter. That may be ok for trailering small riding mower or load of mulch or cement blocks, but not for the investment you have in your PT. The 12" and smaller wheels work too hard by spinning many revs/mi. That means heat and heat results in blow-outs. How many boat trailers with tiny wheels have you seen sitting at the side of the road with blow-outs? Lots I'll bet. Not that the HF has tiny wheels, but imho they are not big enough for my comfort hauling a PT. The trailer should have at least a 3,500# single axle with 15" wheels. Your tow vehicle can certainly handle that plus cargo with ease

I got my Featherlite pre-owned through a classified at racingjunk.com {HERE}. Lots of racers fire sale their stuff when they move on to bigger race cars, need more space, etc. I seize those opportunities to get good deals to fit our limited race budget. In my case, the fellow was selling the 14 footer to move up to a 22 foot enclosed trailer for his race car (to tow behind his 40' Class A MH /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif). Some great buys are to be had, and this is a good time since the race season is winding down in most parts of the country. While it would be hard to find a $400 Featherlite (I hope you do /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif), you can find a solid unit that will serve you well, for a whole lot less than $2k. Not to throw a wet blanket on this, but even if one is only towing from A to B, safety is still #1. If your PT came flying off and caused injury to a bystander, that would be tragic indeed.

 

[Barryh]

I have never really pulled a trailer, so I guess maybe I should re-think this a little bit. Thanks sounds like good advice /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif