use of rototiller BX24
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jeff9366
Super Star Member
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- Tractor
- Kubota Tractor Loader L3560 HST+ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 3,700 pounds bare tractor, 5,400 pounds operating weight, 37 horsepower
Only very, very few Three Point Hitches incorporate down force, which is only helpful when tractor is NOT moving such as using a mounted auger. Even when using an auger, the "help" is limited.
When the tractor is moving, Newton's Law of Equal and Opposite Reaction means downforce lifts rear of the tractor, decreasing traction. No net gain to you.
WEIGHT is key to cutting effectiveness with all ground contact implements. Buy HEAVY.
A 40" to 54" PTO powered roto-tiller works fine on any BX size tractor.
LINK TO T-B-N ARCHIVE: "TILLER ON BX": https://www.google.com/search?clien...oe=UTF-8&gfe_rd=ssl&ei=luSGVoXKLIOd-AXLg6mwBQ
Here is tiller reference pricing: pto tiller in Heavy Equipment Attachments | eBay
When the tractor is moving, Newton's Law of Equal and Opposite Reaction means downforce lifts rear of the tractor, decreasing traction. No net gain to you.
WEIGHT is key to cutting effectiveness with all ground contact implements. Buy HEAVY.
A 40" to 54" PTO powered roto-tiller works fine on any BX size tractor.
LINK TO T-B-N ARCHIVE: "TILLER ON BX": https://www.google.com/search?clien...oe=UTF-8&gfe_rd=ssl&ei=luSGVoXKLIOd-AXLg6mwBQ
Here is tiller reference pricing: pto tiller in Heavy Equipment Attachments | eBay
Last edited:
Spindifferent
Gold Member
Consider a reverse-rotation tiller as they may help dig deeper. Weight is your friend. Recommend Woods or Land Pride.
xzcVAbc5
Gold Member
I have a Countyline 4' tiller made by Behlen (branded Countyline) that I bought at TSC for my BX25. It weighs a ton, but the Kub picks it up without a problem. The website says 595lb and I bought the tiller last spring so I'd guess that's accurate. I also have a Speeco Cat 1 quickhitch so that adds weight (70lbs?).
The tiller is USA made, but has Chinese gearboxes. I'm not sure if the top gearbox can be rearranged in order to make it reverse till. I'd hate to have to take all the tines off and swap direction if I wanted it the other direction.
For forward till vs. reverse till I think I prefer the forward till. If it hits a big rock it goes out the back and it's usually on the top of the soil. I found a 3' piece of rebar in my sister's yard last fall. It caught in the tines, but didn't bend anything on the tiller.
As far as performance I'm glad I didn't buy a bigger tiller. 4' keeps the engine loaded plenty. When I till it's usually with the skids fully raised so it's all the way in as far as it will go.
Attached are some pictures of my setup that a friend took a week ago when I tilled his new yard. The tiller is set on the second hole.
The tiller is USA made, but has Chinese gearboxes. I'm not sure if the top gearbox can be rearranged in order to make it reverse till. I'd hate to have to take all the tines off and swap direction if I wanted it the other direction.
For forward till vs. reverse till I think I prefer the forward till. If it hits a big rock it goes out the back and it's usually on the top of the soil. I found a 3' piece of rebar in my sister's yard last fall. It caught in the tines, but didn't bend anything on the tiller.
As far as performance I'm glad I didn't buy a bigger tiller. 4' keeps the engine loaded plenty. When I till it's usually with the skids fully raised so it's all the way in as far as it will go.
Attached are some pictures of my setup that a friend took a week ago when I tilled his new yard. The tiller is set on the second hole.
