using up ignition points on 8N

   / using up ignition points on 8N #11  
Bully, I am inclined to agree with you. Reason being I have a 600 ford that did as he said and I frist changed the points. Then after a little while, maybe an hour I had the same thing. My problem was a carb related issue. I crossed two plug wires and of course it backfired and ran fine longer than it did when changing the points. Later I drained the little bulb below the carb and did an unprofessional adjustment without much improvment. I rake hay with this tractor so it gets run a lot now and I think the running a lot helps but some times I still have to peck on the carb or cross wires to get a goood smooth run but not often. I have had bad points to make it stop just like turning off the key. I love these old tractors but I enjoy the trouble free operation of my new 4330....Luck to the guy with the problem and I hope my past has been some help to him......teddy
 
   / using up ignition points on 8N #12  
If you are continually burning up the points on your tractor do this quick
check. Look at your Battery, and see if it is Positive Ground or Negative
Ground. Ah, let's assume that it is Positive Ground like my Allis Chalmers CA.
Now go have a look at the wiring on the Coil. The Minus wire from the Battery
(through the switch) should be laid down on the Coil's (-) terminal and the
(+) Terminal wire should go to the Distributor, which continutes to the Points
& Condensor. If someone has changed the battery and installed it backwards
from the Factory Orientation, this can cause the problem.

Also, if your Points have a Peak on the Moveable Contact or the Fixed Contact
you can determine if the Condenser is under size or oversized. There is a pretty
good article on a Motorcycle Blog telling about this.
Dan's Motorcycle

Your Points should last for YEARS, and you shouldn't need to worry about
them for a long time, if everything is correct.

If your Battery was inserted backwards, you may want to Polarize your Generator.
After a generator has been worked on and is reconnected, it should be polarized by
connecting the fields momentarily to the battery before the engine is started.
Polarizing the generator, on most Delco and Autolite generators, you momentarily
touch a jumper wire to the "B" or "BAT" terminal of the regulator or cutout relay,
and the "A"or "ARM" or "GEN" terminal of the regulator or cutout relay. This assures
that the generator will have the correct polarity with respect to the battery it is to
charge, regardless of whether the battery is + or - ground.


lk
 
   / using up ignition points on 8N #13  
yep... 8n is a A circuit.. so polarize bat to arm.
 
   / using up ignition points on 8N #14  
Some diagnostic procedures can quickly point you to the general source of the problem on older tractors; If you suspect you have no spark, pull off one spark plug wire, stick a Phillips head screwdriver into the wire boot, hold it within about 3/16 of an inch from any chassis or engine ground, and crank over the engine. You should see, and hear, a healthy spark. If you have a spark but suspect the engine is not getting fuel, find a way to spray starting ether fluid into the carburetor intake, and crank the engine. If you have spark, the engine should run for a bit. That points to carburetor and fuel system starvation problems. ( If, however, your carburetor float needle valve is causing the carburetor to flood, the ether trick won't help.) Running an older tractor at high loads can cause oil fouling of the spark plugs and misfire, even if the plugs don't normally misfire under lighter loads. Your ignition point problem sounds like a bad or improperly sized condenser, or too much voltage getting to your coil, as others above have pointed out. If others have worked on a tractor before you owned it, you never know what wrong parts they've installed.
Condensers are odd little devices, and I've found a new condenser is just as likely to be bad as an old one. If your parts are coming from China, there's little hope.
 
   / using up ignition points on 8N #15  
Oil, lube, or grease contamination from the lubricated lobes of the distributor will burn point contacts quickly. Check to see if there is an excessive amount of approved cam lube on these contact areas and remove/ clean/replace. I have found the lube and/or oil from worn shaft or seal will work up to the points when they get hot and burn them up.
 
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   / using up ignition points on 8N #16  
that's why you should only use the approved cam lobe lubriants like synthetic and silicone or specialty molly greases.. and only a lil dab on the rubbing block so it will distribute over the life of the block as it wears slowly.

soundguy
 
   / using up ignition points on 8N #17  
that's why you should only use the approved cam lobe lubriants like synthetic and silicone or specialty molly greases.. and only a lil dab on the rubbing block so it will distribute over the life of the block as it wears slowly.

soundguy

Yes, correct. I couldn't remember "cam lube" lubriCant, but I do remember where the 2 oz ?tube is which I bought many years ago, lol and, I still have close to all of it left. lol
 
   / using up ignition points on 8N #18  
I have a tube of ML1 that will likely last me a couple decades... ;)


soundguy
 
   / using up ignition points on 8N #19  
burning up points on my old ferguson t-20 4 cylinder tractor. run for about three hours and done. changed points four different times along with condensors and still, same o. not contaminating the points, seems to be too much sparkee cross the points. installed new 12 volt internal resistor coil (twice) no change. It has a 12 volt system , negative ground and the coil is negative to the distributer. Im going to check voltage to my points tonight and was wanting to know how many volts should be comin out of the negative side of the coil? wat the heck else could be goin on to cause my points burning up? tried filing them last time and still would not start. It really likes new points!!
 
 
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