Water In Oil

[NCMau]

My Z134 Continental engine block has a small internal crack that allows water to slowly seep into the oil. I am not into engine replacement just yet. I tried three block sealers with no good results. I have one more suggested sealer and that is Liquid Glass which I will try that shortly.
My question is: that little water that ends up into the oil pan, can it be removed/separated from the oil? I hate to keep replacing fairly new oil often. (This will be a temporary solution).
Also, has anyone used regular crankcase oil for the cooling system? I heard some old timers using kerosine when antifreeze was not available. That would be dangerous, but oil may not be as bad.

 

[LD1]

My Z134 Continental engine block has a small internal crack that allows water to slowly seep into the oil. I am not into engine replacement just yet. I tried three block sealers with no good results. I have one more suggested sealer and that is Liquid Glass which I will try that shortly.
My question is: that little water that ends up into the oil pan, can it be removed/separated from the oil? I hate to keep replacing fairly new oil often. (This will be a temporary solution).
Also, has anyone used regular crankcase oil for the cooling system? I heard some old timers using kerosine when antifreeze was not available. That would be dangerous, but oil may not be as bad.

Are you sure it's a cracked block and not just a head gasket?

I cant comment on any other questions you asked, other than if you are operating in above freezing temps only, use just water and NO antifreeze. Antifreeze will kill the main and rod bearings in very short order.

 

[fieldserviceengineer]

Since you live in NC, do you use much antifreeze in your coolant? Antifreeze/water coolant can leak through small cracks and hose joints easier due to the lower surface tension of the liquid. Plain water has much higher surface tension thus does not easily leak through cracks. For an interim solution, you can reduce your antifreeze content to around +10F freeze point. If the tractor does not run that much, your greatest concern is the build up of coolant in the oil. Periodically, you could loosen the oil pan drain plug (but not remove) and allow accumulated water to leak past the threads. I have found this works on my John Deere B in the transmission where water seeped in. Just loosening the drain plug was sufficient to allow the water to drain with almost no lubricant lost. Finding a coolant hose that will not be easily damaged by kerosene will not be easy. Plus, the engine was developed using a glycol/water coolant. Oil cooled engines have much different coolant passages and radiator tube sizes to accomodate the heat transfer requirements.

 

[Soundguy]

i'd try the liquid glass /sodium silicate first.. and follow the directions.. it needs flushing with plain water first.

past that.. I'd try to get the engine welded / brazed if possible.. otherwise you are headed towared a wiped out set of bearings.. crank..e tc..

soundguy

 

[NCMau]

Since you live in NC, do you use much antifreeze in your coolant? Antifreeze/water coolant can leak through small cracks and hose joints easier due to the lower surface tension of the liquid. Plain water has much higher surface tension thus does not easily leak through cracks. For an interim solution, you can reduce your antifreeze content to around +10F freeze point. If the tractor does not run that much, your greatest concern is the build up of coolant in the oil. Periodically, you could loosen the oil pan drain plug (but not remove) and allow accumulated water to leak past the threads. I have found this works on my John Deere B in the transmission where water seeped in. Just loosening the drain plug was sufficient to allow the water to drain with almost no lubricant lost. Finding a coolant hose that will not be easily damaged by kerosene will not be easy. Plus, the engine was developed using a glycol/water coolant. Oil cooled engines have much different coolant passages and radiator tube sizes to accomodate the heat transfer requirements.

Thanks for the tip. I used your oil drain plug suggestion and I was able to remove half quart of pure coolant. I removed all the antifreeze and replaced it with plain water. Actually I could use plain water all year around. I just have to house the tractor inside if it gets below freezing.
One question for curiosity sake. If I would use motor oil for coolant would it cause a significant safety hazard? I understand about the different engine requirements, but I still would like to try it as a last resort. Let's face it, this engine will not make the million miles mark anyway.
BTW I noticed two small cracks between cylinder walls when I replaced the head gasket while back.

 

[Soundguy]

pretty common from wht I hear of those engines.. the cracking between cyls that is.. etc.

soundguy

 

[dodge man]

The oil for coolant doesn't sound like a good idea, but if you do, use the thinest oil you can find.

 

[fieldserviceengineer]

Using oil as a coolant can only work when the engine and radiator are designed for the heat transfer requirements of a specific oil type and viscosity. There is a company that is promoting the use of non-aqueous PG as a coolant. No engine manufacturer will sign on to propylene glycol not mixed with water. The problems with such fluids including oil would be the cold viscosity at start up. In engine oils that is a big problem even in 0W viscosity rating. Glycol water coolants do have viscosity change due to temperatures but not as extreme as oil. Engine coolants are move by a non-positive displacement pump (centrifugal pump) thus will resist circulation when the "coolant" is cold.

The only engine I am aware of that is oil cooled is a single cylinder oil well pump jack engine. I do not recall its name but it is designed specifically for a lite oil as the coolant. Engines like that run for days without shutting down. They may have a positive displacement pump (gear pump) to ensure fluid flow even in low starting temperatures.

 

[NCMau]

Thanks. Interesting info.

 

[NCMau]

i'd try the liquid glass /sodium silicate first.. and follow the directions.. it needs flushing with plain water first.

past that.. I'd try to get the engine welded / brazed if possible.. otherwise you are headed towared a wiped out set of bearings.. crank..e tc..

soundguy

Soundguy, everywhere I go I find you. Lot of guys like me appreciate your dedication. One quick question: JB Weld works wonders for external cracks, I used it before. But I was wondering how it would work for an internal crack as in my case. Will it be worth the effort?