Water well prob, need ideas....

[studor]

You can get a shraeder valve arrangement that will screw into either a 1/8" or 1/2" port in the pump (I just bought one at Home Despot here in Canada) -- inflate to 30psi or so with a compressor and see if the line to the creek leaks down which would mean you have a leak somewhere in the suction line --this would cause the line to partially lose its prime and take a lot longer to come up to pressure. If the line does hold pressure then it is either partially blocked line or the jet venturi has been "sandblasted" enough that it is not as effective as it should be. The storage tank may be above the pump enough that the jet isn't really required and that would cause it to come up to pressure much quicker -- just some guesses based on going through some interesting pumping problems of my own Unfortunately I need the water to mix with the Rebel Yell (weak stomach)

 

[tommu56]

if you reduce the diameter it will increase the velocity

the pump is spinning and it throws out the sand with the water

Just in front of the pump in the present set up if you went to a 6" piece of pipe Vertically looking like a T with a shot vertical baffle would let the sand settle


Ill try and draw up what I am talking about
tom

 

[tommu56]

Here is my sketch


tom

 

[MotorSeven]

Thanks Tom, I can build that no prob. Stu, I am going to do a pressure check. Since I have a check valve at each end of the line, I need to tap into it between those valves. I think I'll drill & tap into one of the collars. I have a gage, just need to rig an air valve. I'll try it tomorrow......

RD

Oh, and the water level in the storage tank is about halfway up on the pressure tank........hmmmmm.

 

[tommu56]

MotorSeven

The longer you make the sand trap the better it will give you more time between emptying it.
and if you have some thing bigger in diameter ( 8, 10 0r12") even better it slows down the water and will let sand drop out

the positive head from the tank is helping with the pump head the suction from thhe creek will reduce the total head the pump Will develop

if your foot valve leaks when doing your test double up on them make sure they have a soft disk (Teflon or rubber) to seal with some sand stuck between faces brass to brass will definitely leak if any dirt is in there
or try a Hayward PVC ball check that might be better but it will have a bigger diameter.

tom

 

[Egon]

Have you considered burying a caisson and pumping from that. It would give you a water reservoir to pump out of.

You may also want to consider a lower volume pump?

 

[PILOON]

When you draw from the reservoir tank there is no problem because the level is higher than the pump eg; positive pressure.
When drawing from the well the slightest air leak will cause a lot of those symptoms.
One grain of sand in a checkvalve will allow leakdown and your pump then needs to evacuate the air before it can draw water.
Since you are not drawing very high, in theory you should not even need check valves as that pump should be able to 'self prime' itself.
All joints need 'pipe dope' to assure tight joints.(I even slightly heat PVC before clamping to assure tight seal)
The black 200PSI PVC pipe lines have a white tracer imbedded in the PVC body. That white strip when exposed to sunlight actually breaks down and becomes pourous allowing air leakage at times.
The slightest nick in a barbed pipe elbow or rust will allow air to enter the line.

The cheap 'box store PVC' (rated at 60PSI) will develop air leaks for sure if it was kinked at any time as when in use, under pressure fluctuations, the 'kink' will develop into the slighest crack and allow air to infiltrate and then cause all sorts of symptoms.

Any lakeside installation that I have done uses only brass fittings, heat on PVC b4 clamping and only blue 200PSI line and pipe dope on all threads.
When caught short I have often resorted to Flextra brand caulking as a thread sealant.

Have some that have 300 ft runs with 60 ft elevations.
One system uses 1 hp pump, 100 gal bladder tank and a manifold to supply 5 chalets.
Even the challet that sits 80 ft higher up enjoys 35PSI at the tap.

I'm not a plumber, but sure learned a lot 'on the job'.

Good luck.

 

[studor]

Like Piloon, my wild guess is that you have an air leak between the check valve nearest the pump and the end of the line in the creek. The pump maintains prime because the first check valve keeps water in it, but because the line itself leaks the pump has to resuction the line each time, then it pumps and builds pressure. the tank being nearer and high enough reprimes immediately. Frustrating ain't it

 

[tommu56]

RD
I didn't think of it till now can you use a submersible pump that might be your best solution every thing would be positive pressure.

Do you have any pictures maybe we could shed more light on it.

tom

 

[MotorSeven]

I pressurized the system today to 30psi. I did have a small leak at the priming plug above the pump. I watched the sand hole in the creek & had zero bubbles. In an hour it dropped to 10psi. Should this hold longer, or indefinatly?
Now as for the pump having to re-prime every time that is not the case. I can pump from the reservoir(40 seconds), immediatly switch to the creek, open a faucet & let the water pressure drop until the pump kicks on. It then will run over 3 min.
So can I assume that it is either the pump pr pressure tank? I am leaning towards the pump, since when looking at the impeller I have no clue as to what it should look like.

Piloon, all my fittings are hard pvc, either screwed or glued. No flex pipe or clamps at all. Egon, yes I have thought of the cassion, but this creek can rock & roll during a flood & I was worried that it would wash out. Tom, if I do replace this pump you can bet your %#@ that it will be a submersible.
Stu, frustration??? Miller High Life is taking care of that right now........

RD