WD hitch school

[Gl33kl]

A couple of links below to threads others may find of interest. I had saved these links while completing my set-up. Not so applicable to the tension/set-up discussion, but with a subject line like "WD Hitch School" this may get some looks. Lots of photos, links and good discussion in both - they've helped me out a bunch.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/trailers-transportation/104707-about-weight-distribution-hitches-pics.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/trailers-transportation/183631-weight-distributing-hitch-dump-equipment.html

And just a note on head tilt. I set up ball height & trailer hitch (height on both is adjustable) for a level ride with a full load and still needed to adjust head tilt slightly to allow adequate clearance between the bottom of the trailer frame and the WD bars. I could see too much tilt being a problem though, if used to compensate for mis-matched ball/trailer tongue height.

Hope this helps.
Greg

 

[dstig1]

Keep in mind that just because you have the WD hitch doesn't mean to always need to use it. If you are pulling the low end that you posted (~5k) then there is no need for it and you can leave the bars off and just pull in conventional mode (Weight Carrying is the technical term). Set the bars up for the mid range of where you need it (in that 8-9-10k range), or work up a couple different set points for different loads as someone else noted.

 

[Highbeam]

I use WD systems for towing an RV and my equipment trailer with an F350. Max trailer weights are under 8000 so I have plenty of truck.

Often times I have to tow an empty flat bed to go pick up a load. I don't need the WD bars but taking them off and stowing them is a PITA with all the grease and everything so I just use the loosest link. That's the only time I use a different link for the bars.

The WD system automatically adjusts for different tongue weights to some extent. Figure that additional tongue weight will try and push the ball down harder. Well, that means that the chains will pull on the spring bars harder which means that more weight will be transered to the front axle. The spring rates of both the WD bars and the truck's suspension will make up for the additional tongue weight mostly. True, it is not perfect but enough of the new weight is adequately distributed to allow you to set it and forget it.

The tilt of the hitch head is adjustable so that you can have level spring bars. If your head has to be tilted way back to some extreme angle then you have the wrong spring bars and need heavier ones. When you have done your job right on the tilt, you should have two links hanging and spring bars level with the ground while enough tension is on the bars to properly distribute that tongue weight.