What implement best for turf grading with compact tractor?

npalen

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This calls for a special attachment design: (with tongue in cheek) Need a frame about 10 feet in length (3PH or pull type?)with a pair of gauge wheels on the rear end. A mounting arrangement in the middle of the length will attach a roto tiller with a very extended pto shaft.

Run the tool over the terrain shaving off the high spots with a blade behind the tiller dragging the dirt into the low spots eventually filling them after repeated use.

P.S. I realize that the above would probably be impractical to build, its just what comes to mind when thinking about the challenge.
 

shooterdon

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I am far from expert. With all that grass, I envision a lot of clumping no matter what you use. If I were you, I would find the worst area of about an acre in size and spray it with round up. After the grass is killed, hit it with a tiller and chain harrow. Multiple passes should get you to a decent surface. Depending on your ground, a landscape rake to remove rocks might be a good idea too.

If that works, you can do other areas as you see fit and have the time.
 
  
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ukrkoz

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Geese did pretty good job this year too. They chose not to leave for winter and I had easy over a hundred of them feeding on the grass.
 
  
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ukrkoz

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Well, I'll give tiller a try. I'll practice on the flatter top level, it still has few hillocks, but in the lot back, out of sight. Pictures posted are, unfortunately, "curb appeal". If tiller works, I'll move down. If not, I'll consider going for broke and dozing it. I'll have too doze only about less than 2 acre as, legally, I can't touch 1.25 a of wet land. Will cost me about a thousand to pay someone with small dozer, maybe less. I'll report back, how tiller works.
Yes, I get the long rake design. Something has to skim the tips while staying more or less horizontal. Or, attachment will simply follow terrain.
 

nybirdman

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As stated;you can't do anything until you kill the grass on the high spots.Box blade,tiller,rear blade will not cut through grass.
Kill,plow(middle buster,potato plow) move high spots to low spots with box blade ,reseed.
 

Grapple guy

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OK, so I finally have tractor. 30Hp compact. Loader and 3 point.
I live on 6 acre, 1/4 of it is wetland with puddles and mud.
Property is 2 levels. It's all grass, with some trees.
Upper level is more or less graded flat, just bumpy.
Lower level is like as if driving on lake waves. Small hills and valleys. Killing me every time I have to mow it.
I did fence edge mow yesterday with my Cub, prepping the big mow, and seriously, I am so tired of bouncing up and down on mower...
I shall not pay dozer to come and regrade it.
Having a 30hp tractor, what manageable implement should I get, to slowly regrade that lower level? I am in no rush, I can do small lots at a time, it's on my dime and my time.
I considered land plane but found a very good feedback on it and it is not appropriate tool.
As I can't "officially" grade wetland, I am looking at about 2.5 acre to flatten and, upper 3 acre won't hurt to be smoothed either.
Thank you for advice.

Hard to show it in pic but, you can see some of those uneven areas


I had the same problem, what I was dealing with was just an extremely rough and bumpy area that I hit golf balls to and I built a set of gauge wheels for my roto tiller that set behind about 3 ft. and also took a ratchet strap and secured the rear flap closed, now it will cut the high spots and fills the low spots. I will probably seed tonight. I did have to put a live link in-line with the top link so it didn't lift the rototiller didn't just lift up right away, it was just to give me more control. Hope this helps
 

Stonehaller

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I had a similar situation several years ago. After trying several half measures to fix it, I went all in. Roundup the grass to kill it all. Rototill high spots. Use boxblade and fill if necessary, to regrade so low areas drain properly. Nothing beats a Harley rake to finish grade and prep for seed. You could rent a skid steer with a Harley rake and finish grade the whole area in a weekend.
 

Doc G

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OP: I faced exactly your situation a few years ago and have repeated this process on several 4-6 acre plots. Grassy/weedy areas that were terrible to mow, even required 4WD sometimes because of ruts left by previous property owner. I have a 32 HP tractor. What I did is similar to what has been suggested:

1.) Get a 3pt or pull-type sprayer. Kill with glyphosate. (My sprayer is electric 50 gals with a 12 foot boom. It does not take as long as you think to cover less than 10 acres, bumpiness notwithstanding.) You might have to do this twice a few weeks apart.

2.) Disc. One time I did the discing myself, another time hired a larger tractor operator with a bigger disc, but I could've done it all myself. Put weight on the disc plow if necessary so the ground really turns. There will still be some grass roots, not much you can do.

3.) Some box blade work to move dirt, but only in the worst spots.

4.) Chain harrow. I got mine from TSC, and attached additional thick steel pipes to it so it would weight more. I drove this around many times at fairly high speed. It broke up clumps and clods, pulled dirt from high to low, and smoothed. It also collects the worst grass root clumps. I pull it behind the box blade, with the blade height set to skim high spots. A good hard rain will also help.

[OPTIONAL]

5.) Spread fertilizer. I rented a fertilizer buggy from my feed store to pull with the tractor.

6.) Spread seed. Use a 3-pt seed slinger or hire out.

7.) Spray broadleaf weedkiller once the grass starts growing. (Remember the sprayer from step 1? Very handy!)

The result is not perfect, still bumpy in places but it's not a golf course. A FAR CRY better than it used to be. The grass was so thick it bogged down the mower last fall; probably a little more work and I could hay it.
 

Industrial Toys

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I Too VOTE Harley Rake. Although smaller. This is the old model that had TWO ROLLERS AND S TINES. Too expensive to make that way anymore. If you have ever used an Electric Planer over a hand one, well that's like the Harley, over a fixed rake.

BUT, For the Money, One of those spring tooth Rakes is GREAT. Bit with gauge wheels.
 

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Cataclysm

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ok
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A power (Harley) rake is the answer. Rent one or pay someone with one on a skid steer. I have a 6' PTO driven power rake I run off the back of my 55hp tractor. There is nothing equal to smooth grassed areas. No need to re-seed. The power rake will distribute the grass roots and it will re-grow pretty fast.
 
 
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