what rpm's to use the clutch?

[namesray]

i have a kubota b7800 with a hydrostat transmission. my question is what is the proper rpm's to use the clutch? i bush hog and sometimes need to change ranges from medium to low and back again and also have a 3 point hitch winch that i need to put the pto into and out of gear quite a bit. i set the throttle up (at least 2000 rpm) while operating these attachments and wonder does it wear the clutch more if i use it at these higher rpm's or should i throttle it to idle each time i need to use the clutch? i am sure this has been asked before and i tried to search, but thought this would be quicker and easier. thank you all for your responses.

 

[bp fick]

The manual for my B2320 says to idle down to 1200-1300, IIRC, when engaging PTO and THEN idle up to speed.

I think kicking in the PTO at 2000 RPM is a rather harsh shock to the system and isn't particularly wise.

 

[TripleR]

Unless I am reading this improperly, it seems you have twp separate issues:

1. RPM during change from Low/Medium/High while bush hogging.

2. RPM during PTO engagement/disengagement.

I don't usually reduce RPM during change in gear or range on HST or gear provided I do it quickly enough so the bush hog speed doesn't drop significantly. I actually don't even use the clutch on my 5030 HST for range changes any more.

As to the PTO; same as bp fick.

 

[bp fick]

On my B2320, one MUST engage the clutch to change gears. Wow, if you just touch the range lever with your hip or knee, inadvertently, it lets you know immediately!! The grinding sound is gosh awful.

I'm sure the need for a clutch on the B series to change range, 4x4, or PTO no doubt simplifies things in the design and is a cost saver for this line? It's second nature to me and I don't even think about while doing it, but I guess a lot of guys seem to wish for all this to be "modernized".

 

[k0ua]

Unless I am reading this improperly, it seems you have twp separate issues:

1. RPM during change from Low/Medium/High while bush hogging.

2. RPM during PTO engagement/disengagement.

I don't usually reduce RPM during change in gear or range on HST or gear provided I do it quickly enough so the bush hog speed doesn't drop significantly. I actually don't even use the clutch on my 5030 HST for range changes any more.

As to the PTO; same as bp fick.

Same here for my L3400HST no clutch for changing ranges just make sure you are dead stop, hydro pedal centered in Neutral. so throttle left at wherever it was.. Now PTO , throttle down to about 1000 or so, clutch in, engage PTO lever, and slowly release clutch, and when cutter is up to speed, then throttle up.

James K0UA

 

[TripleR]

On my B2320, one MUST engage the clutch to change gears. Wow, if you just touch the range lever with your hip or knee, inadvertently, it lets you know immediately!! The grinding sound is gosh awful.

I'm sure the need for a clutch on the B series to change range, 4x4, or PTO no doubt simplifies things in the design and is a cost saver for this line? It's second nature to me and I don't even think about while doing it, but I guess a lot of guys seem to wish for all this to be "modernized".

Yes, things do cost money, the bxx20 Series has a live PTO while the Bxx30 Series has independent etc.

 

[bp fick]

The electronic PTO engaging clutch on our lawn tractor went out a couple years back. List price? $200 just for the part. The older model simply had a big old manual lever which engaged the mowing deck. Bullet proof. But ain't it grand to just push a button on the dash? I guess, but one pays for that convenience.

As per most of history. Simple and it works? Fairly inexpensive. Automatic and electronic assists? More costly, more complex and more expensive to repair.

But I'm still not buying a car without power steering and A/C though.

 

[TripleR]

The electronic PTO engaging clutch on our lawn tractor went out a couple years back. List price? $200 just for the part. The older model simply had a big old manual lever which engaged the mowing deck. Bullet proof. But ain't it grand to just push a button on the dash? I guess, but one pays for that convenience.

As per most of history. Simple and it works? Fairly inexpensive. Automatic and electronic assists? More costly, more complex and more expensive to repair.

But I'm still not buying a car without power steering and A/C though.

I am one of those guys who lamented the change from the lever to the push button PTO. Our BX2660, L5030, M8540, Massey Ferguson, Case 995 etc. have the levers and our John Deere 2305 has the electronic knob.

In all fairness though, we have used JD mowers for 20+ years and never had one fail, I just don't like them.

It is funny how quickly a "frill" becomes commonly accepted as "standard" ie power steering, AC etc. I remember my dad's concern when they stopped putting hand cranks with new cars and mine when they left kick starters off motorcycles.

 

[k0ua]

I remember my dad's concern when they stopped putting hand cranks with new cars and mine when they left kick starters off motorcycles.


Ha, I had one of the last with a kick starter, my 79 KZ650 had it and the 80 model did not... I think I used the kicker maybe once or twice. The bike was pretty reliable, but it was nice to know that if your battery was low, you could still get her going.

James K0UA

 

[TripleR]

I remember my dad's concern when they stopped putting hand cranks with new cars and mine when they left kick starters off motorcycles.


Ha, I had one of the last with a kick starter, my 79 KZ650 had it and the 80 model did not... I think I used the kicker maybe once or twice. The bike was pretty reliable, but it was nice to know that if your battery was low, you could still get her going.

James K0UA

Yep, my 80 KZ didn't have one and the way those things were jetted, I probably couldn't have spun it fast enough to start anyway.