What Size/Type Brush Hog for a B2910??

[Don_Curley]

Well, my B2910 was delivered on Tuesday ... so now I can legitimately post on the "Kubota Owning" forum ... allright!! I plan to post separately on my delivery experience ... which started out shakey, but ended up OK (all the while restoring my faith in my dealer).

In any case, although I also got a post hole digger, box scraper, rear blade, and backhoe with my 2910 ... it looks like I need another rear implement (but of course) ... a Brush Hog. This was based on the sales manager looking at my property and commenting that it was very similar to his, and that it looked like I could use a Brush Hog. He thought a 5' or 5 1/2' unit (versus a 6') would do me just fine. Since I can still benefit from the dealer's 10% discount on implements (as long as they're purchased within 2 weeks of the package deal for the tractor), I would like to move on this (and the "boss" has pre-approved the buy, so I can't pass this up!). Since I know zip about Brush Hogs (and other such "tractor things", being the newbie that I am), I would really appreciate some advice from those of you in the know. Specifically, what size Brush Hog would you recommend for a 2910 and roughly what do they cost? If it's helpful, I live on 4 acres of essentially flat land in the high desert of southeastern Utah. Untended, the existing vegetation is primarily prairie-like ... with a variety of very tough grasses, sage brush (amazingly tough wood even at small diameters), rabbit bush, black brush, mustard, and a variety of weeds and sticker bushes. Given the size tractor and vegetation, what size/type of Brush Hog would you recommend?

Thanks in advance,
Don

 

[Anonymous Poster]

A 5' would be about the limit for a 22 PTO HP tractor. I have a 4' on a 22.5 PTO Satoh and she bogs down, but I'm cutting brush not grass...

 

[glennmac]

Don,

Congratulations. You will have a lot of fun. I have a 2910 and have done a lot of brush cutting with it. Aside from the brand, you have to think of four primary things when buying a cutter.

1. Width. Your owners manual for the 2910 will say that you should use a 4' cutter. Dont believe it. Many people here, including me, productively use a 5' cutter on 2710s and 2910s. That is what I would recommend. 4' would be too small, and smaller than your tire tread width. 6' would be too big for a 2910.

2. Strength. Cutters are made in light, medium and heavy duty models. What gets stronger as you go up the scale is: the gauge thickness of the sides and top of the cutter, the size and thickness of the blades, and the mechanical strength of the gearbox. If you are primarily cutting grasses and other soft vegetation, a lightweight will be fine. If you will be cutting heavy woody brush, a medium duty may be needed. Heavy duty cutters are so large they are way beyond the capability of a 2910. From your description, I think a light duty would probably serve you. A brand new line from Woods, called the Brushbull, has an introductory cutter that is about halfway between the light duty and medium duty of their previous line. I would highly recommend it. I have the older medium duty model and it is great, and the Brushbull model has some real improvements.

3. Weight. This goes along with the width and strength of the cutter. You have to have enough 3ph lifting capacity to lift the cutter. You have enough for all lightweights and most medium weights (but probably not the new Brushbull medium weight).

4. Slip clutch or shear pin. When your cutter blade hits an immovable object your gear box will break unless their is a protective device that protects it. The standard and cheapest device is a shear pin. It will break before the shock reaches the gearbox, and then you must replace it with spares that you will carry. A more sophisticated and expensive device is a slip clutch. Nothing breaks. The clutch just slips and life goes on. Most times you wont even know it happens. They usually add about $100 to the price. Do you need a clutch? No, if you are mowing just grass and light brush. Probably, if you are going to hit a lot of hard wood and rocky ground. In my mind, it sort of goes along with the decision to get a lightweight or medium weight cutter. If you need medium, get a clutch.

By the way, don't get stampeded by that 10% offer. You should routinely be able to get that as a minimum discount on all implements. I get 20% on all Woods implements here in CT without even asking.

Brush hogging is my favorite tractor activity.

 

[Von]

Glenn,
I haven't used my 5' Howse rotory cutter yet on my B2710, I was wondering if you leave your FEL on when cutting? I did on my B8200 but was thinking of leaving it off with this tractor. I do have some weights that I can hang off the front if I need to. I have quite alot of hills to cut, and will be doing it on monday when it cools down some. So let me know what you think.

 

[Alan L.]

Glenmac pretty much covered it. I have a light duty Rhino SE5 and have cleared about 14 acres of brush up to 1" and sometime bigger. Other than some dents in the deck the light duty rig has been fine. I wouldn't think of using a 4' cutter with my 2710 - the 5' covers the width of the tractor and it handles it fine. 6' is too big, but my brochure from Kubota listed a 5' cutter and my dealer recommends the 5'. The 2710 frankly would look pretty silly pulling a 4'.

I'm happy with my Rhino which was about $800, but the dealer now sells a Rhino that looks even better made than mine. I would buy it if I was in the market. Seems like $850 was their price.

About 80% of the use of my tractor is brushhogging.



Alan L., TX

 

[glennmac]

Von,

I have always cut with my loader on for two reason, which may not apply to you. First, since my land was wildly overgrown with woody bushes and brambles, I used the loader as a necessary shield to protect me and the tractor. Second, my medium duty Woods cutter with Freedom Hitches means I have over 800 lbs. hanging off the back.

Now that I've cleared the woody stuff in most areas, I was going to try the cutter without the loader to see how it balances. Havent got to it yet.

I distinctly remember Bird saying he mows without his loader and I also know he has a Howse. I would think that weight balance wouldnt be such a problem when the cutter is resting on its wheel. But when you lift it up or when you go up a hill, or both, you would be increasing the imbalance.

What else can you do except experiment.

 

[ronjhall]

Don
I'm in the market for a new Rotary Cutter. My 25-year-old 5' Ford has finally worn out. Gearbox and Slip-clutch are still good but sheet metal has holes in it from hitting to many rocks over the years./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif
I have looked at 4 different models. Land Pride, Wallace (TSC Stores), King Kutter, and <font color=green>JD</font color=green>.
The Land Pride is the most expensive of the light duty models. But may be the best made. Over $1000 with Slip-Clutch and Chain guards.
Wallace is the lightest weight and constructed. $539 at TSC stores here in Michigan. I Slip-clutch cost another $300. Chain guards are another $140. I could order a Slip- clutch from ASC for $57 plus shipping. But this adds length to the PTO shaft and may mean the PTO shaft will have to be cut.
King Kutter has a decent cutter. $549 at Farm & Fleet stores. None of the Dealers around here have the Slip-clutch or safety chains. They have to be ordered. Both of these items can be ordered at ASC They will add over $200 plus shipping to the cost.
The <font color=green>JD</font color=green> 513 is $895 delivered. It comes with Slip-Clutch and chain guards.
After using my 5' light duty Ford Rotary Cutter with my 2910. I don't think a 5' Rotary Cutter above light duty should be put behind it. They weigh too much. If you require a medium or heavy-duty model then the 4' size should be used.
I would recommend the slip-clutch and chain guards./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[GlueGuy]

Von,

I've got a 4' Woods on the back of my B7500. I've mowed with and without the FEL. At first I went without, and for some areas I mow, that's required for turn-around clearance.

However, for the majority of my mowing, I need the FEL for a counter-balance. Hardly any of my property is level, and I have noticed that when you get in certain positions without the FEL, the front tires loose their grip. It's a little bit nervous when you turn the steering wheel, but the tractor keeps going straight! /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif

The 4' Woods is 400 or 500 lbs (don't recall the exact number). That's easily within the lifting range for the B7500, but it sticks out there a long way. This affects the moment around the CG.

The GlueGuy

 

[Don_Curley]

Thanks Everyone

As usual, I have received a lot of good advice from the good folks on this board. From looking at all of the input, it looks like I should stick with a 5' light duty cutter for my 2910. I don't know their full line of available brands, but my dealer does carry Brush Hog and Land Pride (but they don't have any Wood's products). I will also inquire about the slip-clutch and chain guard options.

By the way, the 10% is an additional "package" discount above and beyond my dealer's "normal" discount pricing (and I have found their implement prices to be very good ... as compared to their tractor prices, which were not so good ... but still somewhat better than Internet prices with shipping factored-in for delivery to my remote area). In any regard, I will be looking into purchasing some 5' unit next week.

Thanks again,
Don

 

[teherzog]

Re: Thanks Everyone

A little input, I just got a Woods 5' bush hog and spent last week clearing about 6 acres, I didn't have any tight spots so I left the FEL on and I'm glad I did. A few spots I hit were swampy and overgrown so I could not see all of the wet spots, with the FEL set low as a bush gaurd I did hit a few places where the front tires sunk-in but the FEL kept them from going to deep which made it easy to back out. My b2710 had no problem with pulling the 5 footer around, I would have kicked myself had I got anything smaller.
Tom H