Wiring diagram for a Toro 8-32 Professional riding mower

   / Wiring diagram for a Toro 8-32 Professional riding mower #1  

jpilk99

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Bolton, MA
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1983 Ford 1700, 4WD, 770 Loader, Woods backhoe, Woods brush hog,etc.
Hi,

I'm working on an 'older' Toro (not exactly sure how old - looks like the one Forest Gump mowed with :)) 8-32 "Professional" and can't get the machine to spark. Model # 56150 and serial number 9000001 - 9999999.

At first, I thought it was simply the ignition coil (or magneto) so I got a new one. Still no signal being sent to spark plug. I have followed the instructions of having the mower deck disengaged, the key turned "on" and the parking brake "on", pull the recoil starter and ...no spark.

Then found the switch that is engaged when the mower deck is disengaged is broken, I jumped it --- so that shouldn't be the issue.

Then found the switch on the transmission that ...must be telling the machine when it's in Neutral, and did a continuity test both in neutral and not and each time the switch was open. So I jumped (closed) that one.

Still no spark.

Looking at wiring harness. Disconnected harness at back of starter/key switch and it's a rusty mess. Going to buy new one now. Going to clean all connector-ends of wiring harness and put on the new starter/key switch.

What's interesting is that the starter/key switch, with me sitting in the seat, engages the Starter. Still no spark.

Thinking that Something in the wiring assembly is open or closed and telling the ignition coil NOT to send ...current to spark plug. Can anyone help? Even a wiring diagram?

Thank you.

Jay
 
   / Wiring diagram for a Toro 8-32 Professional riding mower
  • Thread Starter
#4  
   / Wiring diagram for a Toro 8-32 Professional riding mower #6  
Unfortunately, that link doesn't "open" anything.

Strange. When I click on it, I get this manual:
Adjustments.JPG
Adjustments.JPG
 
   / Wiring diagram for a Toro 8-32 Professional riding mower
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Strange. When I click on it, I get this manual:
View attachment 659401
View attachment 659402

Ultra strange - I see it now ...on my phone 🤪. Thank you. I値l start trying to map the schematic to what I知 experiencing with the machine.

Just weird that nothing I try works. Even Disconnecting the 徒ill wire from the coil.

This is a confusing one. Thanks again.

Jay
 
   / Wiring diagram for a Toro 8-32 Professional riding mower #8  
Are you checking for spark in the evening or in low light conditions. In bright daylight it's hard to see a spark. Pull the plug and lay it on the engine. With the spark plug wire hooked up and the spark plug in a shadow you should be able to see a spark. Did you check the points? They are under the flywheel on older B&S engines. Newer ones are electronic and they have a magnetic trigger on one leg of the coil. Are the flywheel magnets clean and shinny? Same for the legs of the coil. Is the coil gap good? Sometimes there is a piece of paper with replacement coils for that purpose. A piece of electricians tape on the flywheel works too.

The engine stops by the kill wire grounding out the coil. The key off position grounds out the coil so if you remove the kill wire there should be spark.

Does the engine have enough compression? If you hold a finger in the spark plug hole and crank the engine and your finger gets blown out of the hole then there is enough compression. Sometimes you need to file a bit of metal out of between the lifter and the valve. You don't need to remove the valve. Just lift the valve up enough to be able to slip the file in between.
 
   / Wiring diagram for a Toro 8-32 Professional riding mower
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Are you checking for spark in the evening or in low light conditions. In bright daylight it's hard to see a spark. Pull the plug and lay it on the engine. With the spark plug wire hooked up and the spark plug in a shadow you should be able to see a spark. Did you check the points? They are under the flywheel on older B&S engines. Newer ones are electronic and they have a magnetic trigger on one leg of the coil. Are the flywheel magnets clean and shinny? Same for the legs of the coil. Is the coil gap good? Sometimes there is a piece of paper with replacement coils for that purpose. A piece of electricians tape on the flywheel works too.

The engine stops by the kill wire grounding out the coil. The key off position grounds out the coil so if you remove the kill wire there should be spark.

Does the engine have enough compression? If you hold a finger in the spark plug hole and crank the engine and your finger gets blown out of the hole then there is enough compression. Sometimes you need to file a bit of metal out of between the lifter and the valve. You don't need to remove the valve. Just lift the valve up enough to be able to slip the file in between.

Thanks pmsmechanic. Sadly, (even though I've repaired close to 1000 'small engines' and rebuild cars), I am only understanding half of what you said.

I had the idiot light in a shadow and a helper checking and there was no light. Haven't done the other test of the plug again the block, but, with no light ...there's no point. The test light works fine on my other mower.

I don't believe this machine has points, it's a 1989.

The magnets on flywheel/rotor(?) I scrubbed with wire brush. Wouldn't say they're shiny but they look ultra clean.

Brand new coil/magneto(?)/stator(?) and ...having done dozens of these, I believe I gapped it correctly. I let it slam up against the magnets and then backed em off just enough to allow flywheel to spin past without impingement.

Have tested the kill wire off, as well as on - and with all switches, 1 by 1, jumped. No spark.

Bought new starter/key switch and cleaned wiring connector to it. No spark.

Compression feels good, but, ....that shouldn't have anything to do with getting a spark or not, should it?

I'm flummoxed.
 
   / Wiring diagram for a Toro 8-32 Professional riding mower #10  
Everything you've done sounds good to me.

If there is no wire coming out from under the flywheel or anywhere else then there are no points.

The only thing I can think of at this point is that the new magneto/coil that you bought is no good. Can you remove one from a running engine and try that?

If you remove the kill wire from the coil you've removed anything that can keep the engine from sparking so then the new coil should work.

I don't think I have a spare coil laying around or I'd take a picture and post it.

What brand/model of engine are you working on? I might be telling you totally the wrong information too.
 
 
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