Flu temperature is important! It’s a Goldilocks like conundrum. Too cold and the VOCs volatilized from the wood condense in the chimney. Too hot and you can damage the chimney, and maybe burn the structure.
I heated my home, an old farmhouse, for 35 years, exclusively with wood. I also was responsible for the wood fired boilers that heated our dry kilns. What I learned is that wood combustion is chemical reaction that occurs in two stages. The first begins at 451 degrees and combines one oxygen molecule with one carbon molecule, that reaction results in CO and releases about 30% of the potential energy (BTUs). The second reaction occurs at 1200 degrees when a second oxygen molecule is added to form CO2, that second reaction releases 70% of the BTUs.
When you turn down a big stove so the furnace temperature is below 1200 you have incomplete combustion (think smoke).
When you look at a fire, the coals are carbon, the flame is the VOCs igniting.
Water is a byproduct of combustion. The water vapor in flu gas will be the moisture in the wood being flashed off plus the water produced by combustion. Creosote is condensed VOCs and has plenty of carbon available to burn. So ideal flu temp is between 212 and 450 degrees.
All cellulose has 8000 BTU/Lb. bone dry. Most dense Hardwood have 50% moisture green and that reduces the BTUs to 4000 BTU/Lb.
Almost impossible for your stove, fuel and ambient temperatures to be ideal all the time. My solution was two stoves, a big one in the basement and small one in the kitchen both hooked to an insulated masonry chimney with two 8’ flus (laid up with regular cinder blocks and the gap filled with vermiculite).
At 77 I got lazy, and my honey hated it when I went up the ladder to clean the chimney. Upon review…brevity is not my strong suit.