Woods BH750 swing bearing

[Dataway]

Anyone know how to remove the swivel/swing bearings from a Woods BH750-3 backhoe? These are the large bearings on the king pins of the main housing which allows the boom to swivel.
It appears they might be pressed on the pins ... but there isn't much room for a puller at the top, and you can't get to the bottom without removing the top bearing first.
All advice appreciated.

 

[Dataway]

Come on really ... no one has rebuilt a woods backhoe?

 

[countrybumpkin]

I believe you have to remove the top bearing retaining cap then this should allow the boom to be raised up enough to be removed from the main frame. Once the boom assembly is removed you can then remove the bearings.

 

[Dataway]

Actually boom is off, cap is off, but the top bearing has to come off so the housing can be tilted enough to pull it out of the main frame. Going to see if I can fit a puller on the top bearing today.

 

[dfkrug]

I am in the process of changing the sleeve bearings on the primary boom pivot of my
Woods 7500 clone hoe. The sleeve bearings (aka plain bearings) are hardened steel
with teflon coating and I can not hammer them thru the pivot tubing. There are
actually three sleeves in there, so I plan to weld in some chunks of steel and pound
them out the way they went in. I will post about the project soon. My first bearing
shipment was lost in the mail, so I should have the replacement on Monday from CT.

 

[Dataway]

This BH750 I'm working on uses a semi-spherical bearing pressed on to top and bottom of a pivot pin ... just tried to pull it off .... not budging so far. The shell of the bearing has a parting line ... too perfect to be a break, not sure what the purpose of it is ... but it allows the shell to open up and would pull off the inner sphere if pulled hard enough ... this is adding a "springiness" to the puller that makes it way less effective.

Actually the proper term is "ball bushing" for this particular type of bearing.

 

[Dataway]

What do you guys think about just splitting the bearing .... grinding a slot with a cutoff wheel and use a chisel to split the races?

 

[dfkrug]

This BH750 I'm working on uses a semi-spherical bearing pressed on to top and bottom of a pivot pin ... just tried to pull it off .... not budging so far. The shell of the bearing has a parting line ... too perfect to be a break, not sure what the purpose of it is ... but it allows the shell to open up and would pull off the inner sphere if pulled hard enough ... this is adding a "springiness" to the puller that makes it way less effective.

Actually the proper term is "ball bushing" for this particular type of bearing.

I would like to see a photo of that. I am not picturing it.

What I do in general if a bearing (incl bearing race or sleeve) can not be pressed off or
pounded off, is to first try some heat. If that does not work or is not feasible, I then weld
some beads onto it with a MIG welder. If it comes off hot, great. If not, I let it cool and
sometimes the welds will shrink the bearing. Next, I try welding a bit of metal onto it,
so I can use a hammer and drift from the opposite side.

Finally, it's time for surgery. I use a plasma cutter and cut into it, hopefully not too deep.
That last has never failed me. You can use a cutting torch here, but the collateral damage
is often greater.

 

[dfkrug]

One more method is to grind a slot into the bearing race or sleeve, then whack the
slot with a cold chisel. If the steel is really hard, it breaks.

 

[Dataway]

I could use the plasma on the outer race with no problem except probably setting the grease on fire, but cut off wheel would probably be better on the inner races it's a smallish component ... 1.5" bore, 2.00" OD.

Looks like the image below. Spherical inner races pivots the outer ... it's a plain bearing, no rollers or anything.