Yanmar 2210 lift arms too short for tiller

[Scoutman]

So I just go my hands on a tiller to go behind my YM2210 and turns out the tiller is a Yanmar as well. I think it's a RSB1400 but don't hold me to that. So after getting it home I hooked things up and the rear arms seem too short. The sheetmetal on the front of the tiller rubs the back tire tread and I don't see any way to change this other than to make some extension brackets. I looked at maybe shortening the top link but I don't want to change the geometry of the tiller too much and I'm not sure that would rotate the tiller out of the way enough to clear. Am I missing something here? How should this be setup correctly?






I put this in the Yanmar section instead of the attachments section, if it needs to be moved, please do.

 

[California]

You've come to the right place. Welcome!

What's missing is the special top link that belongs with that tiller. It tilts the tiller away from the wheels as it rises.

This has two parts: a 'bridge' that bolts to the tractor and goes halfway back, then a half-length top link to go the rest of the way back. I have some photos on here somewhere but don't have time to look for them at the moment.

I suggest ask the tiller seller for those components - it isn't a complete kit without those components.

 

[winston1]

I did exactly what you are talking about by fabricating a shorter top link for my 2002d and rs1300 tiller. The amount it tilts the tiller will not affect lubrication. It will also improve the drive line angle. Been running mine that way for several years. I don't have much tire clearance but as long as it doesn't hit an inch is as good as a mile.

 

[Scoutman]

You've come to the right place. Welcome!

What's missing is the special top link that belongs with that tiller. It tilts the tiller away from the wheels as it rises.

This has two parts: a 'bridge' that bolts to the tractor and goes halfway back, then a half-length top link to go the rest of the way back. I have some photos on here somewhere but don't have time to look for them at the moment.

I suggest ask the tiller seller for those components - it isn't a complete kit without those components.

I got the tiller from a friend. They never could get it set up right on their bigger JD either so when they got rid of the JD, I got it to use. Some Google searches showed me that it's also missing some wheels that go behind it but I think that's ok.

So will just rolling the top forward be enough to clear? I'm starting to make a set of extension arms out of 1/2" plate for the lower pins and to give me some space. The PTO shaft should fit as should one of my top links.

 

[Scoutman]

The red top link that's in the picts above was the shortest I had and someone had cut it down at some point (see the welds right at the midpoint handle). I guess I could cut that down some more if this doesn't work.

 

[careyo63]

I had the same prob. on my FM. I just turned my pins on the mower Inward and that cured that prob.and kept the arms away from the wheels. My Rs1400 Tiller are out and the chains must be tight with no slack at all so they don't hit. I thought of Rev. them inward but never had the need to and plus I sold it. It was a little to beat up for it to be a keeper. I Can't complain I sold it on CL. in 3 days for what I gave for it.

 

[zzvyb6]

Disassemble the main drive cross tubes and reassemble them 180 degrees so the longer arms are now forward instead of rearward. That will give you 2 more inches of clearance.

 

[California]

Ok here's how Yanmar intended their tillers to be set up. Note the special top link components. I call the tractor-side part a 'bridge'. I have it attached with pins here in this photo but there was too much slop so I then used the factory bolts that came with the 'bridge'.

I took this photo to show that the driveline provided by the importer was too short - so ignore that component. (After seeing this photo they gave me a free PTO shaft extender, no hassle).

And here's the old thread where I posted that photo. Another new tiller owner had the same questions as you. There are other similar threads here, and the correct solution in all of them is: Don't butcher the tiller, just get the correct Yanmar components (or weld up a replica of that top bridge). It is needed to tilt the tiller away from the tires as it rises.

 

[careyo63]

I was told it was a must. And I can see that it's awful close to the Rears of yours. So if It hits this is what you need to keep it away.

 

[zzvyb6]

Looks like the 'bridge' deal is for a mower to let it float relative to the tractor. My Woods rear finish mower came with this type of linkage. On a tiller, you need pitch stiffness to keep the tiller from flopping forward. This would only work on a reverse drive tiller (which makes the tiller top link pull rearward). My Yanmar tiller pulls forward, so this rig would just twist up the machine and fail the driveline.

Spin the torque tubes around to get more reach.

 

[careyo63]

Thats right I did turn them Inwards also. After they sent me the correct drive shaft. This is the correct length of one for the 2000/240. and a RS1400.

 

[California]

Looks like the 'bridge' deal is for a mower to let it float relative to the tractor. My Woods rear finish mower came with this type of linkage. On a tiller, you need pitch stiffness to keep the tiller from flopping forward. This would only work on a reverse drive tiller (which makes the tiller top link pull rearward). My Yanmar tiller pulls forward, so this rig would just twist up the machine and fail the driveline.

Spin the torque tubes around to get more reach.

No. Wrong.

Look, there's a decal on the tiller showing these components that I and Carey showed you pictures of.

Just set it up the way Yanmar intended, don't turn stuff around.

 

[zzvyb6]

Ok here's how Yanmar intended their tillers to be set up. Note the special top link components. I call the tractor-side part a 'bridge'. I have it attached with pins here in this photo but there was too much slop so I then used the factory bolts that came with the 'bridge'.

I took this photo to show that the driveline provided by the importer was too short - so ignore that component. (After seeing this photo they gave me a free PTO shaft extender, no hassle).

And here's the old thread where I posted that photo. Another new tiller owner had the same questions as you. There are other similar threads here, and the correct solution in all of them is: Don't butcher the tiller, just get the correct Yanmar components (or weld up a replica of that top bridge). It is needed to tilt the tiller away from the tires as it rises.

Your tiller attachment brackets have stops welded in place to prevent the tiller from rocking forward more than a few degrees. Scoutman's doesn't.

 

[California]

Looks like the 'bridge' deal is for a mower to let it float relative to the tractor. My Woods rear finish mower came with this type of linkage. On a tiller, you need pitch stiffness to keep the tiller from flopping forward. This would only work on a reverse drive tiller (which makes the tiller top link pull rearward). My Yanmar tiller pulls forward, so this rig would just twist up the machine and fail the driveline.

Spin the torque tubes around to get more reach.

No. Wrong.

Look, there's a decal on the tiller showing these components that I and Carey showed you pictures of.

Just set it up the way Yanmar intended, don't turn stuff around.

Here's a cleaner picture of what Yanmar intended. I wish I could remember who I copied it from. Does anyone claim it? Thanks to the original poster!

 

[Scoutman]

Any idea why these were so close to the rear of the tires in the first place? It seems that even when they were hooked up correctly with the right parts they're only an inch or two from the rubber.

 

[Scoutman]

Thanks for all the responses BTW. Another question is some of these tillers are RS1400 and this one is a RSB1400. I assume 1400 cause I can't see the rest of the decal in the few pictures I took. I'll check again when I get home.

 

[California]

On a tiller, you need pitch stiffness to keep the tiller from flopping forward. This would only work on a reverse drive tiller (which makes the tiller top link pull rearward). My Yanmar tiller pulls forward, so this rig would just twist up the machine and fail the driveline.

...

Your tiller attachment brackets have stops welded in place to prevent the tiller from rocking forward more than a few degrees.

Also wrong.

The stress on the top link is a pull - trying to make the top link longer - as the tines rotate forward and meet resistance. Dunno what you mean by 'tabs'. If you disconnect the back end of the upper link at the tiller, it can rotate rotate way past 90 degrees up or down. If it hit a tab while stressed, it would get bent. There is no tab with a purpose of limiting the top link's range of motion.

Here's the factory decal on a RS1400 showing how to connect it to a YM2000. How can you argue with this???

(YM2210 might need a different bridge with three holes to match YM2210's upper link mount point. Anybody know?)

 

[California]

Another question is some of these tillers are RS1400 and this one is a RSB1400.

RS1400 is green and '1400' is the width in mm. The gear case is cast iron. RSB1400 was red which I assume indicates a later model tiller, same width.

I see in the picture there is a shield below the gear case so maybe they switched to aluminum for the gear case. And those springs for the rear cover look more sophisticated that the simple hang-chains on RS1400. I doubt there is any notable difference under actual operating conditions.


Added: And I see you commented about missing the 'trainer wheels' for the back of the tiller. With a YM2210 I don't think you need them.

A lot of people post that they run without them. Also these models were some of the last tillers to offer rear wheels at all. Modern tillers don't use them.

I found my little YM186D (15 pto hp) was too underpowered to run this tiller without the back wheels. Specifically, cross-tilling in my orchard to get close to the trees, (photo) the front tires often climb out of tilled ground onto firm ground. This often buried the tiller and stalled the little tractor. Adding the trainer wheels to keep the tiller at a constant depth alleviated this. You have 22 hp vs this 15 (and hopefully can till your garden in parallel lines) so this shouldn't be a problem.

 

[Inspector507]

The tiller is set up correctly.Nothing needs disassembled. He needs the Yanmar top link bracket that California pictured to make it work without hitting the tires.

 

[normde2001]

What is the length of your toplink? Hoye has min. 13.5" and I have seen shorter.
Yanmar Tractor Parts: Top link - 9 tube - Cat. 1 -
If you had the afore-mentioned stops you could use a length of chain. I doubt you will find the correct linkage if it did not come with the tiller.