Zetor 8011-8045 12011-12045 on CD

   #1  

BertZegers

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Jan 2, 2012
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261
Location
South-West Ontario
Tractor
Kubota L2900, Zetor 8011, Kubota KX41Excavator, John Deere 4400 Combine, Case 1816C skidsteer
Today I got the 8011-8045 12011-12045 Workshop, Spares & Operator Manual. I bought it of Ebay for $ 10.00 including delivery.

I had time to go through them, and they are good value for money. Basicly they are 4 books on PDF format.

Bert.
 
   #2  

RamTruckMan

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Feb 29, 2004
Messages
56
Thanks for the link. I have ordered the CD. I was hoping I could download PDF, but it looks like I need to wait for the CD. In the meantime could you tell me what these levers do. See attached photo. This 900 Long (same as 8011 Zetor) was my fathers. He died back in 2006 and it has been setting all that time. My nephews ran it out of fuel and left it set. So I pulled it up by the barn and it has sat since. I was told the starter was bad. So I bought a new starter and put on it. It cranks over and fires but doesn't run on its own. I just need to get the fuel lines bled and I think it will purr right along, even with the old fuel. I need to know what these levers do just to make sure it is getting fuel. I move them but they none seem to move the throttle linkage. Also want to make sure none shuts off the fuel. It is the three lever on top of dash panel around steering wheel. One show rabbit and turtle, the other says stop and the other shows a gear.
 

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#3  
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BertZegers

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Joined
Jan 2, 2012
Messages
261
Location
South-West Ontario
Tractor
Kubota L2900, Zetor 8011, Kubota KX41Excavator, John Deere 4400 Combine, Case 1816C skidsteer
The lever on the right is the throttle. Put it half way to start. Turn all the way to stop, to stop.

Bleeding the fuel system is easy. Open the fuel valve on the tank, open the small screw on the filter, pump with the hand pump (pull and push)( under the injector pump ) till no air comes out. Do the same on the second filter. ( you might have to turn the hand pump to get it going )
If the tractor sat that long (without diesel), I would replace the fuel filters. There might be water in the filters. You probably will get a lot of rust out of the tank. This can plug up your pre filter.

Using the hand pump you can also check if you get fuel to the injection pump.





The lever with rabbit and turtle is for more torque. Rabbit is default. The lever with the" gear " is PTO on and off.
Hope this helps.
 
   #4  

RamTruckMan

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Feb 29, 2004
Messages
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Thank you very much, it will be a week or two before I get a chance to try it out.



The lever on the right is the throttle. Put it half way to start. Turn all the way to stop, to stop.

Bleeding the fuel system is easy. Open the fuel valve on the tank, open the small screw on the filter, pump with the hand pump (pull and push)( under the injector pump ) till no air comes out. Do the same on the second filter. ( you might have to turn the hand pump to get it going )
If the tractor sat that long (without diesel), I would replace the fuel filters. There might be water in the filters. You probably will get a lot of rust out of the tank. This can plug up your pre filter.

Using the hand pump you can also check if you get fuel to the injection pump.





The lever with rabbit and turtle is for more torque. Rabbit is default. The lever with the" gear " is PTO on and off.
Hope this helps.
 
   #5  

RamTruckMan

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Feb 29, 2004
Messages
56
Got the ole Zetor purring like a kitten. Cleaned the sediment bowl, (full of sludge) primed the pump and she kicked right off.

Now, a couple more questions. The engine oil calls for regular 10w-30 SAE.
Transmission 80 weight gear oil.
Steering - ON3 oil - What is that?
Brakes - AOO oil - What is that?
Hydraulics? Does that work off the 80 weight gear oil? Seems a little heavy to me.
I am still working to figure this tractor out. I have only been able to get out to the farm about an hour an a half in the last couple of weeks.
Enough time to get tractor running. Now I want to change or top off all fluids.

The Shop manual is very good. Just trying to interpret the nomenclature.
The manual is in English, but sometimes I feel like translation may be more for the British rather than the American. Sometimes there is a bit of a understanding gap across the ocean.
 
   #6  

rdbigfarmboy

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Jan 7, 2005
Messages
429
Location
Collinwood, TN
Tractor
MF, Same,Zetor
I have a 910 w cab. Great old tractor.
I use 15w 40 motor oil.
I use common hydraulic fluid in the transmission and lift which uses oil from the transmission.
DOT 4 in the brakes
power steering is common hydraulic fluid.
Change spin on hydraulic filter on the left side behind the step and clean the screen thing beside it.
Flush the radiator fins.
When you change engine oil change the oil in the injector pump.
 
   #7  

RamTruckMan

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Feb 29, 2004
Messages
56
Great, that makes a lot more sense than the manual. In reading the shop manual, I am really getting to appreciate the 8011 Zetor. It is really a mechanical marvel with features that I didn't expect for this old of a tractor. Hydraulic assist brakes. I need to delve further but it appears the brakes are mechanic but the brake cylinder assists.

I didn't expect the engineering, like this in an eastern european tractor. I expected it to be more like the Belarus or a Chinese tractor. When I get it mechanical fit I will get it painted up. The tractor is not beat up. It has just sat out in the weather. All the rust is just surface rust. It might take a little time to clean up and paint but don't expect any sheet metal repairs.
 
   #8  

RamTruckMan

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Feb 29, 2004
Messages
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Zetor 8011-8045

Zetor 8011, I have a fuel leak behind the injector pump, that drips off the bottom of the pump. Looks like I will have to take the pump off to find.
What could be on the back of pump that would leak.
 

RamTruckMan

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Joined
Feb 29, 2004
Messages
56
Thanks a whole lot for the info. I did get the thing pulled off. It took a little doing to figure out how to get that back bolt off. After I got that figured out it wasn't too bad.

Do you know how to fix that leak? I have don't see how to open anything up to replace a seal without getting into some pretty complicated mechanics. I may do more damage than good.

Thanks again for the reply.
 
 
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