Miller Dialarc
- Thread starter Jorville
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dragoneggs
Super Star Member
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- Jun 9, 2013
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- Seabeck, Washington
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- Kubota BX-25D, Kubota Z122RKW-42
I love charts like these. Sometimes they provide historical insight on the company if you study a bit.
Thanks for the link, according to that chart, this Miller dialarc 300, mod. JH...... was made back in January-July 87. By the looks of the front, it has extra switches for tig welding.
My son took some pics. with his smart phone but lately it's been taking 2-3 days for me to get them and he lives next door, probably the pitures have to be approved by Russian hackers first.
Found one video on youtube of a Miller Dialarc, this is the same one as I just got, must of cost $2k when new back in 87. I probably won't be doing any tig welding anytime soon but a nice option. What I don't get is what in hades is all that arcing and sparking at the bottom of the welding machine when he pushes a button up top? it's near the end of the video, WOW.
Miller Dialarc HF test - YouTube
Miller Dialarc HF test - YouTube
MinnesotaDaveChalmers
Platinum Member
That is the high frequency spark system.
That's what starts the arc on DC and AC tig without touching the metal.
Also, while TIG welding on AC for aluminum, the high freq spark is on continuously to keep the arc going as the AC sine wave goes through its zero crossing points.
The switch is usually labeled: start, off, continuous.
Turn to "off" for stick welding.
Thanks for the info wouldn't of guess that in a 100 years, those are some of the problems I run into when buying used stuff, no manual.
After a trip to the dentist went over to HD, got a 50 amp outlet and breaker, <<wonder if breaker needs to be 50 amp or should I've bought a 30 amp breaker? I have around 20' of AWG 2 entrance cable that I had on my house few years ago.
So tomorrow I'll start the big hookup, I also bought a small package 3/16 6011 rods for a test run, I'm thinking this Miller Dialarc should smoke them. Wanted some 3/16" low high DC rods but he only had them in ten lb packages, want to make sure this thing works first before buying alot of big rods.
MinnesotaDaveChalmers
Platinum Member
Just curious, why did you want 3/16" 7018 instead of 1/8" or 5/32"?
50 amp breaker may not be enough depending on how many amps you decide to weld at.
The tag on the front of your machine lists 90 amps running on 230 volts input - likely for the max 250 amps weld output.
50 amp breaker may not be enough depending on how many amps you decide to weld at.
The tag on the front of your machine lists 90 amps running on 230 volts input - likely for the max 250 amps weld output.
All the other rods were in ten lb. sealed packs, wanted something that would take about 225 amps, the 6011 was in a 5 lb, just under $18.00, this small weld shop doesn't have the selection it used to have and now he's closed on Sat. mornings, not liking that.
So if I set this Miller at 250 welding amps, think it will trip a 50 amp breaker? thought that was what I had in my old garage on my 250 amp Century welder.
I was 6 hrs. yesterday hooking up two 15' cables to a 50 amp breaker, spliced the cables together with splice kit. I was planing on hooking the other end to this 50 amp outlet>> Leviton 5378 5 Amp, 25 Volt, Surface Mounting Receptacle, Straight Blade, Industrial Grade, Grounding, Black - Electric Plugs - Amazon.com ,,,,One of the entrance cables I used is 100 amp, wouldn't fit in the 50 amp breaker, the other old cable I had spliced on the other end was a little smaller and faded but I saw where it said rated for 300 volts and that just barely fit in the breaker. Shouldn't need 100 amp entrance cable for 220 volt welder atleast I didn't on my old 250 amp Century but I are not not electrictrian.
So if I set this Miller at 250 welding amps, think it will trip a 50 amp breaker? thought that was what I had in my old garage on my 250 amp Century welder.
I was 6 hrs. yesterday hooking up two 15' cables to a 50 amp breaker, spliced the cables together with splice kit. I was planing on hooking the other end to this 50 amp outlet>> Leviton 5378 5 Amp, 25 Volt, Surface Mounting Receptacle, Straight Blade, Industrial Grade, Grounding, Black - Electric Plugs - Amazon.com ,,,,One of the entrance cables I used is 100 amp, wouldn't fit in the 50 amp breaker, the other old cable I had spliced on the other end was a little smaller and faded but I saw where it said rated for 300 volts and that just barely fit in the breaker. Shouldn't need 100 amp entrance cable for 220 volt welder atleast I didn't on my old 250 amp Century but I are not not electrictrian.
Fallon
Super Member
Depending on your welder, you can oversize the breaker compared to the wiring. But that's with a welder with a lower duty cycle. I doubt that Dialarc counts & probably has a 100% duty cycle at max amperage.
Breakers don't protect devices, they protect wire. Make sure all the wire has a greater ampacity rating than your breaker. Re-wiring cords & outlets or putting in bigger breakers is a great way to burn your house down. And when you do insurance wont cover it because your wiring wasn't to code & will call it willfull negligence.
Breakers don't protect devices, they protect wire. Make sure all the wire has a greater ampacity rating than your breaker. Re-wiring cords & outlets or putting in bigger breakers is a great way to burn your house down. And when you do insurance wont cover it because your wiring wasn't to code & will call it willfull negligence.
That sounds like good advice. Funny how the copper cable coming out of the welder is a lot smaller than the aluminum cable I ran from the breaker to the outlet, and that stuff is sooo hard to work with, plus have to have that messy anti oxide grease on it and on my fingers and everything else. Wonder if it's worth messing with aluminum cable, maybe I should get a new copper cable instead.