Need advice on Plow for 75hp Tractor

[WTA]

I still use an old 2 bottom roll over plow, leftover from when we had an old MM tractor on the farm. Even though I have 95 horse and 4 wheel drive now, that darn thing is too much for my tractor. Or not enough I guess, Our dirt turns to hardpan real fast here and I break off the bolts holding the bottoms to the frame on a regular basis. These are two big grade 5 1 inch diameter bolts on each one.

I could use a 3 or 4 bottom easy in any other dirt I guess but not here. Here, I'd just be riding a wheelie across the field.

If you want this old plow it's for sale. It's a MM 2-14 rollover. Needs new bolts on both rear plows. I'm just sticking with the chisel plow from now on and not doing the moldboard anymore. If I have to plow rows in the garden then I can use my grandfathers old case 3 horse plow behind 3 horses. There's nothing to break on it really.

 

[Renze]

Fuel consumption would go up (per hr) with a bigger plow. Figure that to be a wash between the 2. All things being equal, 3 plows would be a much easier day for the tractor.

John Deere did a comparative test with some of their European models, late 80's.
The outcome was that the smaller tractor with the biggest plough it could reasonably handle, had the best fuel consumption per hectare.
A 1640 used more fuel with the same plough as a 2240 at higher speed, while the 2240 used less fuel when hooked up to a 4 bottom.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

John Deere did a comparative test with some of their European models, late 80's.
The outcome was that the smaller tractor with the biggest plough it could reasonably handle, had the best fuel consumption per hectare.
A 1640 used more fuel with the same plough as a 2240 at higher speed, while the 2240 used less fuel when hooked up to a 4 bottom.

That's interesting. Deere did tests here in the late 60's/early 70's and found just the opposite to be true. The model 4000 was released based on those findings. It was essentially a 4010 drive train with a 4020 motor. A little lighter, a lot less bells and whistles, and a lower price tag than the 4020, but packing the same power. (ie, a stripped down, light weight 4020) Theory was, take implements being used on smaller tractors and move at higher ground speeds. Roughly the same volume of work done, all the while burning less fuel.

 

[BarryinMN]

My tractor is 55 pto and 10K lbs, pulls a 4x18 on-land thru clay/sod easily. Only trouble is with large roots & boulders.

I also have an old 3 bottom 3pt JD that will ball up & pop out of the ground when trying to plow trash. Be aware that plows are designed to pull a certain centerline offset from the tractor, adding or subtracting moldboards will shift the centerline.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

My tractor is 55 pto and 10K lbs, pulls a 4x18 on-land thru clay/sod easily. Only trouble is with large roots & boulders.

I also have an old 3 bottom 3pt JD that will ball up & pop out of the ground when trying to plow trash. Be aware that plows are designed to pull a certain centerline offset from the tractor, adding or subtracting moldboards will shift the centerline.

A small 3pt plow will not have much problem with the centerline like you are talking about. A semi-mount plow that is designed for adding or removing bottoms will have adjustments for the centerline as well. Just buy a manual and set the plow up properly as well as the tractor pulling it.

 

[Deereman4020]

I have a 75 horse 2 WD tractor to plow about 15-20 acres once or twice a year in East Texas. It has not been plowed for at least 40 years. I think I need a 3 or 4 bottom plow like a JD 145 (or 1350-1450) or a 1H 720 like the one belonging to oleoz. Question: What does the group think about a JD 2755 handling a 4 bottom with 16" shares? Some people say to allow 20 hp per blade and some say 15 to 20. My thinking is to get the plow and then get a good, used tandem disk for seedbed preparation. Thanks for the information and viewpoints.

id say go for it we have had a case 700(gas) pulling a 3 pottom plow i think your 2755 would pull the plough just keep going 4-5 MPH at full throttle

 

[Red Raider]

Robert in NY-- I learned a lot from watching the plowing videos you posted and your discussion with Oleozz regarding his IH720. Regarding your thought to get a 3 bottom frame and possibly add a 4th, can I do the reverse? Can I buy a four like Oleozz's and take off a share if the tractor spins?


Barry in MN-- Are you plowing already tilled ground?


Farmwithjunk, Renze, and everyone else, I have learned a lot from your comments, here and on other threads. Thanks.

 

[Renze]

Regarding your thought to get a 3 bottom frame and possibly add a 4th, can I do the reverse? Can I buy a four like Oleozz's and take off a share if the tractor spins?

Off course you can. Many ploughs have a bolt-on 3rd, 4th or 5th share, which can be taken off in heavy soil or poor traction conditions.

There is some misunderstanding about the centerline of ploughs: The side forces of the ploughshares tipping over the "beam" of soil they cut loose, are pushed against the side of the furrow by the longitudinal strip of metal, i think its called the landslide. This keeps your plough from pushing the front axle of the tractor into the ploughed part of the field. The straight ahead stability comes from the landslides, and the centerpoint from where it is pulled, as a marginal difference.

However, to achieve this, the landslides should be perfectly parallel to the direction of travel. If you change the lower link arm stabilisers to get the first share plough as wide as the other 2 or 3, the landslides are no longer parallel to the direction of travel, and it will begin pushing you out of the furrow.

To solve this problem (working width of the 1st share without misaligning by lower link arm stabilisers) you'd need to either adapt the trackwidth of the tractor, or move the headstock of the plough aside. Not all ploughs have the option of changeing the headstock, so mostly you'll need to change the trackwidth of the tractor, to keep 1 wheel in the furrow.

I use a 3 furrow 16" reversible, and i prefer to plough with no lower link arm stabilisers at all: The plough and tractor match up perfectly and the plough can find its own way, the landslides keeping it straight.

When we had another tractor on 18.4-34 tires we did have to countersteer with the same plough, our current is on 16.9-30 so it can drive its centerline 1 inch further away from the side of the furrow, because the tires are this inch more narrow.

 

[Renze]

Theory was, take implements being used on smaller tractors and move at higher ground speeds.

From a Case history book, i recall that Case came up with this theory. (drivelines would last 6500 hrs with work at 2.5 mph, and 10.000 hrs with work at 5 mph: furthermore, you needed less weight to pull the implement, less weight is less fuel consumption to keep the weight rolling)
Maybe Deere was just hooking onto that

That's interesting. Deere did tests here in the late 60's/early 70's and found just the opposite to be true.

I found this in the books of the higher agricultural school (aka "sh*t academy" ) of a friend of my brother: its a book as old as i am, but i can look it up for you.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Robert in NY-- I learned a lot from watching the plowing videos you posted and your discussion with Oleozz regarding his IH720. Regarding your thought to get a 3 bottom frame and possibly add a 4th, can I do the reverse? Can I buy a four like Oleozz's and take off a share if the tractor spins?

Renze answered your question already. But basically, if you are looking at used plows I would get the 4 bottom and take off a bottom if your tractor struggles. Buying an extra bottom for a 3 bottom plow now would cost more then most of the plows are worth so go with the larger plow with the thought that you can always make it smaller. Just make sure the plow you buy can be made smaller easily first. Most 3pt plows can, but not all the semi-mount plows can.