Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,181  
Hello Waratah,

Depending on your rotor diameter you could have four or six rows of grass slicers Y blade sets and hangers using a larger diameter drum to make the mowing less taxing on the drive system assuming you wil be using a chain drive for it

The three inch grass slicers would work well giving you with a 12 inch rotor of plate steel/spiral welded pipe and then welded to steel discs.

The spiral welded pipe is very strong in its construction

The lacing would be 4 or 6 rows of 20 pairs of Y blades hanger weldments and knive hangers for the 5 foot width and one blade at the opposit ends of each row to take up the last bit of drum width.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,182  
Hi Rip, good suggestion but not sure I can deal with the cheap Chinese gear, just spent an hour today in the shed trying to rebuild my bench mounted metal shears, they kinda work but the pivot clearances are all huge and the welded in brackets are crooked etc etc. Certainly better than it was but that sloppiness is just depressing when I know I can make it better. Maybe I'm being overly pessimistic, Ive got a Chinese 200 amp TIG welder that has been fantastic. Never actually seen any of the Hanmey stuff in the flesh though, just got that feeling!

GinNB I agree about the cutter width being wider than the tracks, I'm sure Id regret making it narrower for all time! Also point taken about the motor, I'll do some more research, really need to optimize the motor for sure, would be crazy to make a dog of a machine for a few hundred bucks. My machine is pretty powerful I'm sure if I get the specifications right it will be able to do some good work.

Thanks for all the information Leonz, still trying to work out the real difference between the knife varieties, seems from the Caroni discussion that the shaft with fewer of the chain mounted cutters was the one designed for rougher cutting rather than fine mowing. I know Iron Horse was a huge fan of the P heavy cutters but I suspect he had way more power than I have to drive them.

I'll use cold drawn seamless tube for the main rotor shaft 61/2" OD and 3/8 wall.
Certainly wasn't planning on chain drive, will either be direct drive or belt drive, probably belt but thinking I may get more power eliminating the losses from the belts system - probably end up with belts though.

Really appreciate all the input guys, thanks.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,183  
I would greatly appreciate if someone, who is familiar with a flail mower shown in the pics, could drop some advices. Is that kind of used and according to a trader in good condition (just repainted) machine worth for $2600? Design convenience, effectiveness, reliability...? I have no experience with the flail mowers at all. It would be attached to the M9000 and used for bush and high grass cutting. Max power required 80 hp, width 8' (2.45 m). The trader will add missing hammers. I'm guessing its type should be KG-245HD.
Thanks in advance.
 

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   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,184  
I would greatly appreciate if someone, who is familiar with a flail mower shown in the pics, could drop some advices. Is that kind of used and according to a trader in good condition (just repainted) machine worth for $2600? Design convenience, effectiveness, reliability...? I have no experience with the flail mowers at all. It would be attached to the M9000 and used for bush and high grass cutting. Max power required 80 hp, width 8' (2.45 m). The trader will add missing hammers. I'm guessing its type should be KG-245HD.
Thanks in advance.



About your flailmower;

Number one is that it is a Krone product which is very good.

Number two is that it is a unit with the hardened duck bill hammer knives and a very large flailmower rotor which is very good.

Number three is that you can by parts for it as it is Krone Product.


Number 4 is that you have a manually adjustable rear hitch which allows you to offset the mower to mow closer to walls and fences.


Number five is that you can obtain spare parts from an authorised Krone dealer.


You have mower that will last longer than the tractor you wil lmount it on
and this is also very good.



You will be able to mow heavy brush and good grass with the same mower.

Just ask the dealer to hook it up to a tractor and grease the bearings before you run it for an hour mowing to be sure the bearings are still in good shape.

If the bearings are poor it is not difficult to change them anyway,

Have fun mowing You will be very impressed with the mowing quality of the Krone product.

Just be very ure to have the proper length drive shaft for it as a PTO shaft too long will damage the mower and the tractor(once the mower is on the ground itis at its lowest point and the PTO shaft still must be able to slide in and out with some distance when the mower is on the ground.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,185  
I've never been around a Krone but I'd carefully inspect any mower of that type that had missing hammers. Running one with even one missing hammer will shake the bejeebers out of the mower. Hard on cuttershaft bearings and the holes in the sideplates where the bearings bolt on. It's a major job to redo the sideplate mounts- BTDT. Other parts like around the 3pt frame can loosen and crack as well. Been there done that with one of ours when the operator didn't think it worth going back to the shop for parts.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,186  
Thank You all so much for excellent advices!

Concerning the drive shaft, what a distance should I leave to allow it to slide in and out? Inch or two? Taking into account offseting implement sideways.

I have already asked the trader about possible disbalance of a main shaft. They said it's OK, no disbalance available. But thanks, I'll take care about the sideplates. It's not possible to make any inspection, because the machine is in the other country (Germany). So there's nothing to do except to trust, but still considering some risk.
On the other hand if the bearings could be easily changed or cracks fixed I would do it myself.
But the reason, why a couple of hammers are missing, is unknown. It's important, I'll have to ask. Yes, it could be impossible to work without even one hammer.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,187  
About the Power Take Off shaft,

The size and length you need wil be totally dependent upon the tractor or tractors you will be mounting it on that is the limiting factor.

The type of three point hitch is also a factor as well as you needot be sure the lower links are fully extended also.


We have several how to videos here on TBN shwing how to properly size your PTO shaft which are also on Youtube.

The important thing is to remember to have enough overlap for the male and female shaft parts BUT not so much that it damages the mower or tractor when the mower is lowered to the ground. This is all explained in the video here or on Youtube.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,188  
The important thing is to remember to have enough overlap for the male and female shaft parts BUT not so much that it damages the mower or tractor when the mower is lowered to the ground. This is all explained in the video here or on Youtube.

I've already found the YouTube video with that explanation. Thank You.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,189  
I'm jumping in on an old post. I have to purchase a mower for my L4240 in the next month or so. I like the idea of a flail mover. The comments here are very interesting. I can see that these flail mowers have their commercial uses but what about in a residential setting. I have 2.5 acres to mow and would like to know if you feel it will give me a decently finished lawn, allow me to get close to trees& house. I have a large residence/property - no farm, thoughts?
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #1,190  
I'm jumping in on an old post. I have to purchase a mower for my L4240 in the next month or so. I like the idea of a flail mover. The comments here are very interesting. I can see that these flail mowers have their commercial uses but what about in a residential setting. I have 2.5 acres to mow and would like to know if you feel it will give me a decently finished lawn, allow me to get close to trees& house. I have a large residence/property - no farm, thoughts?

Actually they seem to be quite a bit more favored for residential than commercial. And yes it should do exactly what you describe :thumbsup: A 6' Caroni TM1900 would work perfectly on your L4240, & you should be able to mow your 2.5 acres pretty quickly.
 
 
 
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