Box Scraper Want to uproot scrub trees and vines

[unbidden]

I bought a Brush Grubber at TractorSupply.com
Works like a charm

 

[beppington]

I bought a Brush Grubber at TractorSupply.com
Works like a charm

I see that "Brush Grubber" sells quite a few different things: tugger chain, shrub grubber, Brush Grubber xtreme, Brush Grubber HD .... which do you have?

 

[not2old]

IT - How about a 2' long piece of a 6"x6"?

I've used an old car wheel with no tire on it to good success. A friend had a little trouble with the wheel falling over and cured the problem with welding three together. This was lighter and easier to handle than a log.

 

[IslandTractor]

I've used an old car wheel with no tire on it to good success. A friend had a little trouble with the wheel falling over and cured the problem with welding three together. This was lighter and easier to handle than a log.

An old tractor or truck wheel (one piece) would be great. The idea is obviously to convert horizontal to vertical pull so the higher the fulcrum/angle changer the better. I recall seeing A frame structures used by farmers with horses to pull up stumps and those were six or more feet off the ground.

 

[unbidden]

I see that "Brush Grubber" sells quite a few different things: tugger chain, shrub grubber, Brush Grubber xtreme, Brush Grubber HD .... which do you have?

I bought the original BG-01; $49.99 at tractorsupply.com. Purchased the chain at HarborFrieght for half what it cost at other suppliers.

 

[Neil L]

Island,
Thanks for the lesson, makes all the sence to apply different force than natural resistance.
Thanks to all,
Neil

 

[jimgerken]

Here's my version of the tree gitter (see photos). To use you lower it, back up the tractor so the tree goes into the "V". Keep backing up and start to raise the 3pt and the tree will come out of the ground roots and all. Sometimes it sticks in the tree gitter, and sometimes it falls out on its own. Works great though, and was built for peanuts. In case the phot isnt good enough, the "V" shape is sharp inside, on the bottom edges. And, for clarity, both edges are fixed, nothing moves. The flat metal is !/4". The space between them is 3 or so inches, and tapers to virtually zero.

 

[bikerdib]

The chain is obvious, just needs to be strong enough, long enough and terminate with a chainhook on the working end and be secured to your drawbar on the other. The lever part is simple and can be done in a number of ways. Perhaps the simpliest (though not most convenient) is to use a section from a large log, say two feet in diameter by three feet long and place it next to the tree to be removed lying down. The chain is then wrapped securely two or three times tightly around the tree to be removed, then led over the log to your tractor drawbar (drawbar please, not 3PT or anything attached to the 3PT or the safety police will get you). You then just pull with the tractor. The log effectively changes the direction of the force from horizontal to more vertical and therefore pops the tree out of the ground. Roots and tree structure resist lateral forces (wind or straight pulling with the tractor) better than vertical forces (falling up to the sky) so it makes it easier to get the tree or stump out.

Other devices can be substituted for the tree section. A sturdy metal frame built like an "X" will work fine if strong enough and if the feet have pads to keep it from slipping and digging into the soil. Check out this thread: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/129506-tree-puller-hard-get-trees.html Something like that would be great for you as you don't have a FEL bucket to carry around the log.

If you do use the tree section as the pivot point you can just carry it around with you in the tractor's bucket with the chain as you move from tree to tree.

I made a frame as discussed in the thread mentioned above. In fact, I posted in that thread. However, I have to say that there was no advantage for me using the frame as opposed to just using a cinch chain wrapped around the tree about 8' to 10' above the ground and pulling the tree over with a chain attached to the draw bar. Granted, I'm pulling down trees larger than brush; the trunks are 8" to 12" diameter at ground level. But even on smaller trees, say 3" diameter, I still have just as easy a time using the cinch chain wrapped around the trunk at about 5' above the ground then just pulling them over. Maybe on certain types of soil the frame would offer an advantage but in my sand/clay mix it was more work moving the frame around than it was worth.

For all the safety police (and for my own peace of mind) I bought some horse panel from TSC, cut a piece to fit the ROP and used hose clamps to fasten it to the back of the ROP. The panel I'm referring to is made from 1/4" rod welded in a 2"X4" pattern. This should stop the chain from slapping me in the back of the head in case of a failure under load.

 

[IslandTractor]

For all the safety police (and for my own peace of mind) I bought some horse panel from TSC, cut a piece to fit the ROP and used hose clamps to fasten it to the back of the ROP. The panel I'm referring to is made from 1/4" rod welded in a 2"X4" pattern. This should stop the chain from slapping me in the back of the head in case of a failure under load.

Great idea.

Regarding the A frame stump puller: I appreciate your experience. I have to think that in general there is an advantage though as old time farmers were too practical to bother using a device that did nothing to increase mechanical advantage or otherwise help when horses were pulling out stumps. Maybe it is the soil or the type of tree you were removing. I do note that when I am digging out stumps with a BH that the most effective use of the BH is to pull up rather than sideways and it does seem to make sense that tree roots have evolved mostly to support the tree against lateral rather than vertical forces.

 

[bikerdib]

Great idea.

Regarding the A frame stump puller: I appreciate your experience. I have to think that in general there is an advantage though as old time farmers were too practical to bother using a device that did nothing to increase mechanical advantage or otherwise help when horses were pulling out stumps. Maybe it is the soil or the type of tree you were removing. I do note that when I am digging out stumps with a BH that the most effective use of the BH is to pull up rather than sideways and it does seem to make sense that tree roots have evolved mostly to support the tree against lateral rather than vertical forces.

I understand the principal. I'm just saying that for me, it wasn't worth the work having to move the frame around when I had the same amount of luck just pulling the tree over. I'm removing White Oak, Live Oak and Chinese Tallow trees. It surprised me, the tree that was most difficult turned out to be the trash tree, the Tallow. A few of the Live Oaks broke off instead of coming out with the root ball. However, most of the Tallows are breaking off because even though they have a soft wood, they have MAJOR tap roots. The tap roots on the ones I've successfully removed with roots and all are as big around as the actual trunk of the tree and go down really deep. I plan on renting a BH to dig out the stumps of the trees that are breaking off.

Just in case you are wondering why I'm pulling down trees, I'm building a pond in an old creek bed that has trees lining the bank. Since I'm going to enlarge the creek bed to make the pond, the trees have to go.

Jimgerken; thanks for the pics of your grubber. I'm planning on making one similar to yours. It's always a help to see what others have come up with. Only difference I will turn the drawbar the other way so the flat is vertical. It will be stronger that way.