Robert M
Member
Interested in hearing if anybody has a Land Pride RBT55 grader blade and what size tractor are you pulling it with. I am looking at buying 100 HP 4wd Deutz and think it should handle this blade fine, but am not sure.
Rear Blade Anybody have a Land Pride RBT55 Grader Blade
- Thread starter Robert M
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MtnViewRanch
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I don't have an RBT55, but I do have an RBT45108 and I run it behind a 75hp 12,000lb machine. In heavy grading, as in making new roads from virgin soil it sort of is like the tail wagging the dog. The 45 series is rated for a 125HP 15,000lb machine. The 45 has the largest offset of any of the Land Pride blades at 35". The RBT55 series only offsets to 33". The 55 series is obviously heavier duty within additional 529lbs of weight comparing the 9 foot blades. The moldboards are the same, so the difference must be in the 1/2" larger dia cylinders and how the hitch is made. From the 45 series on up all are cat 2-3 hitches. I guess it all depends on how much your new tractor is actually going to weigh and if you are trying to go with the 120" blade.
Good luck, you won't go wrong with any of the blades that I have mentioned in my opinion.
Good luck, you won't go wrong with any of the blades that I have mentioned in my opinion.
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allen in texas
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WOW! I wanted to play in this thread too but my little bitty RBT3584 just ain't big enough.
What does the 15,000 rating refer to? From looking at the Land Pride catalogue 15,000 lb is the Max GVW. Is this the gross weight of the tractor and does it refer to the maximum tractor size that it is safe to use without damaging the machine or is it related to the size of tractor needed to handle the machine?
Our roads generally are not steep but there are some sections where there is a bit of an incline and I would not want the blade to be like "tail wagging the dog" so it would be important to have a good weight match of machine and blade. I will have a FEL that should help balance the blade.
Can you also tell me what the depth wheel does, I understand it is to getting a smoother road but am not sure exactly how this works.
Our roads generally are not steep but there are some sections where there is a bit of an incline and I would not want the blade to be like "tail wagging the dog" so it would be important to have a good weight match of machine and blade. I will have a FEL that should help balance the blade.
Can you also tell me what the depth wheel does, I understand it is to getting a smoother road but am not sure exactly how this works.
MtnViewRanch
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The 15K weight rating is that the blade should not be attached to a tractor that weighs more than 15,000 lbs. An 18k tractor could do damage to the blade. I have no problem working on my 2+ miles of roads, just when I make new roads and get carried away trying to take to big of a cut. That is usually because I get lazy and should be using my dozer.
As far as the rear gauge wheel, it makes it a lot easier to control the blade, prevents the blade from digging in as the front of the tractor goes up a bump or sudden incline of any kind. Makes it more like a motor grader. Once you get good at grading though, this option is not needed in my opinion. I will say that if you do not get the gauge wheel setup, then be sure to get the skid shoes, they do make life easier.
What are the specs on the new machine other than 100hp? Are you considering the 9' or 10' rear blade?Attachments
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
Brian.
That Case looks real nice, reminds me of using my old Deere 450. Every now and then I wish I had another small dozer.
That Case looks real nice, reminds me of using my old Deere 450. Every now and then I wish I had another small dozer.
Deutz Agrofarm 420 DT 4wd, 102 engine HP, max torque 380 Nm, constant torque range 1400-1700 Nm, hydraulic pump flow rate 56 l/min, total unladen weight 4010 kg, rear linkage lifting capacity 5200 kg (not sure if this is 600 mm or 24" behind the ball, I suspect it is not) here is the link to specs. Will our tractor handle the 10' blade ok? Specs | Deutz Tractors | German Engineering | Brought to you by PFG Australia.
Not sure whether to go for 8' or 10' blade. Our roads are about 4 m (12') wide + extra for drains. I would appeciate ideas on how to choose what size blade and an idea of how I work out if my tractor would be able to safely handle the 10' blade. Roads I will be grading are mostly well farmed but need to be repaired to improve drainage and fill pot holes. Soil is mostly granite, not many rocks, quite light soil that erodes easily. Our farm is undulating, mostly a gentle slope but a few spots where roads are steeper. Our tractor will also have a FEL that should help balance the weight of the blade. I had initially thought I would go for 8' blade but am now wondering if 10' would be better. Also is dual depth wheel better than single depth wheel?
cheers
Robert
Not sure whether to go for 8' or 10' blade. Our roads are about 4 m (12') wide + extra for drains. I would appeciate ideas on how to choose what size blade and an idea of how I work out if my tractor would be able to safely handle the 10' blade. Roads I will be grading are mostly well farmed but need to be repaired to improve drainage and fill pot holes. Soil is mostly granite, not many rocks, quite light soil that erodes easily. Our farm is undulating, mostly a gentle slope but a few spots where roads are steeper. Our tractor will also have a FEL that should help balance the weight of the blade. I had initially thought I would go for 8' blade but am now wondering if 10' would be better. Also is dual depth wheel better than single depth wheel?
cheers
Robert
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
Robert,
I think a good 8 or 9 ft blade would be a good choice if you have single rear wheels on your tractor. I had a 10ft rearblade on my old Case 1370 but it was a little wide for the narrow drives. Wish I had pictures of this blade, I set it up with hydraulic fold over caster wheels from an old combine for guage wheels, worked great.
Today I would recommend you get a good rearblade without the guage wheels and also get a good landplane setup for smoothing and finishing. With a little practice you should be happy with the results you get.
I think a good 8 or 9 ft blade would be a good choice if you have single rear wheels on your tractor. I had a 10ft rearblade on my old Case 1370 but it was a little wide for the narrow drives. Wish I had pictures of this blade, I set it up with hydraulic fold over caster wheels from an old combine for guage wheels, worked great.
Today I would recommend you get a good rearblade without the guage wheels and also get a good landplane setup for smoothing and finishing. With a little practice you should be happy with the results you get.
MtnViewRanch
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The tractor is not that heavy and DOES NOT REQUIRE a 55 series blade. Are you going to put any ballast on the tractor? Honestly this is what I would do. I would ballast the tractor front and rear, get the same rear blade that I have, an RBT45108 with skid shoes and hydraulic angle and offset. I would get top & tilt setup for the tractor and like jenkinsph said, get a good heavy land plane grader blade. You would then be pretty much set to maintain your roads.
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I am a little confused.
Firstly by the picture of your grader blade in the picture above which looks huge compared to the size of your tractor, does the blade only weigh 1166 lbs (529 kg) as it says in the catalogue?
Secondly everybody has told me and what I have read is, you get the best grading result the heavier your blade is. That is why I was looking at the RBT55 at 1753 lbs (795 kg) although I think the consensus is that an 8' blade would be better than a 10' blade which was my original thinking as well. Wouldn't I be better with a heavier blade provided the tractor can handle it?
Firstly by the picture of your grader blade in the picture above which looks huge compared to the size of your tractor, does the blade only weigh 1166 lbs (529 kg) as it says in the catalogue?
Secondly everybody has told me and what I have read is, you get the best grading result the heavier your blade is. That is why I was looking at the RBT55 at 1753 lbs (795 kg) although I think the consensus is that an 8' blade would be better than a 10' blade which was my original thinking as well. Wouldn't I be better with a heavier blade provided the tractor can handle it?