Rotary Cutter Broke turnbuckle first time using bush hog

[howie70]

I contacted my dealer. It may or may not be covered by warranty. First the guy said I need to bring the tractor in for it to be covered by warranty. A Kubota technician needed to install it so it would be installed properly. I said you’re kidding me. It is threading a nut on a rod. He said to bring the part in along with the hours and serial number of the tractor. I will do all of that tomorrow. I talked to a different guy at the parts counter regarding the beefier sway arms from the B series. Priced them to me at $21.xx each. Then he told me they wouldn’t work on my tractor. I said I know they are not an exact match, but they can be modified to fit. He told me I needed more parts but that it still would not work. I assured him that I have seen pictures of many people who had did this modification and that I wasn’t ordering right now, just checking prices. So now I will wait to see what I hear from Hodges. Although I did see a thread on a Kubota board where he said they were $110 plus the shipping costs.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

You may be on your own but even if you are out $110+ it should be a one time expense. Turning with the bush hog cutting low on hilly ground can lead me to plowing a furrow sometimes.

 

[sd455dan]

Used my Kodiak bush hog for the first time today. It is only a 40" so my BX2370 should handle it. Many on here have told me they use 48" cutters with no issues. I don't know if I set it up wrong or what. I have used a bush hog on my old 9N and Massey many times in the past, but obviously the Kubota has a little different set up. Anyway, the turnbuckle on the left side broke where it is welded on the nut. I was on some uneven ground so I don't know if I got it in a bind or perhaps it was a bad weld. I am sure this won't be covered under warranty. Any ideas on what might have caused this?


Ran into this once (another brand of tractor) and the distance was changing as the implement was raised- had to set it while fully lifted to not bind... not sure if this is what's going on with yours but it might be worth checking...Those 3 points do have a lot of hydraulic power

Just looked a little closer at the turnbuckle set up and am suprised to see that Kubota did not mount the stabilizing turnbuckle on the same axis as the lift arms pivot point, virtually every other tractor 3 point mounts the check chains or bars on or very close to the lift arm pivot points- to allow full range of motion of the 3 point lift- how does Kubota keep even tension when the implement moves up and down???

 

[howie70]

I am beginning to think it may be easier to go back to the actual chains like the old tractors used!

 

[sd455dan]

I am beginning to think it may be easier to go back to the actual chains like the old tractors used!

Wow- just looked again (pictures) is it possible that the lift arms are reversed left to right and inverted ? On most tractors normally the stabilizers mount outboard of the lift arms and to mounts that are very close to the axis of the lift arm pins- but mounted outside of them (towards the back tires) ??

I may be barking up the wrong tree - but never have seen the check chain /bars mounted anywhere near the pto...

so they don't mount like this is it possible there is a mount out of sight inboard of the lift arm mount pins? if not just can't see how the check chains or bars would not bind as the implement is raised or lowered...

 

[LD1]

Thats how they are on the smaller kubotas. Not sure about the B's, but the L's they move to the outside and the BX's are on the inside

 

[howie70]

Maybe someone can tell me why this hairbrain idea won't work. Replacing the turnbuckle assembly with chains. I was thinking I could keep the U shaped clevis that attaches to the tractor and lift arm. Attach one end of the chain to the clevis on the plate under the pto shaft. Put one of the snap type quick links on the chain and attach it to the lift arm clevis with it. The chain could be adjusted by moving the quick link up or down the chain links. When shortened there may be a couple inches of chain hanging down, but not enough to get tangled in any rear implement. This sounds to simple so I am sure I am overlooking something as to why it won't work.

 

[Scooby074]

Maybe someone can tell me why this hairbrain idea won't work. Replacing the turnbuckle assembly with chains. I was thinking I could keep the U shaped clevis that attaches to the tractor and lift arm. Attach one end of the chain to the clevis on the plate under the pto shaft. Put one of the snap type quick links on the chain and attach it to the lift arm clevis with it. The chain could be adjusted by moving the quick link up or down the chain links. When shortened there may be a couple inches of chain hanging down, but not enough to get tangled in any rear implement. This sounds to simple so I am sure I am overlooking something as to why it won't work.

You could use chain for sure. I installed chain shackles in my 3pt when i bent the stock U shackles. All I had to do was drill out the 3pt arms to fit the chain shackle (3/8" IIRC) then you could run chain in place of the turnbuckle.

Or maybe look at a heavier turnbuckle. This was the model that somebody told me would be a direct fit, I havent confirmed it myself : National Hardware® 3276BC 1/2X9 Forged Turnbuckle, Jaw/Jaw - Tractor Supply Online Store


Here's mine after installing the shackles.

 

[bcp]

Maybe someone can tell me why this hairbrain idea won't work. Replacing the turnbuckle assembly with chains. I was thinking I could keep the U shaped clevis that attaches to the tractor and lift arm. Attach one end of the chain to the clevis on the plate under the pto shaft. Put one of the snap type quick links on the chain and attach it to the lift arm clevis with it. The chain could be adjusted by moving the quick link up or down the chain links. When shortened there may be a couple inches of chain hanging down, but not enough to get tangled in any rear implement. This sounds to simple so I am sure I am overlooking something as to why it won't work.

The drawback would be not being able to adjust it less than the length of a chain link. Maybe you could twist the chain if you needed it a half-link tighter.

Bruce

 

[RoyJackson]

Well, please don't take this the wrong say, and I sure don't mean to be hateful, but I am sure not impressed with those turnbuckles. They seem very weak to me. Just a couple of tack welds on a nut?

James K0UA

I agree...pretty flimsy.
Even the older Deeres (670, 55 series, 770, 790, etc.) had robust forged anti-sway links.

As far as why this one broke...probably when you made a turn and the tail wheel may have been cocked a bit...added stress to the rather weak turnbuckle.