3 Point Log Skidder

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Marveltone, I like your idea of using the boxblade for skidding logs, for a lot of reasons. It keeps the load low, makes a good backstop if the log pushes against you, and if it doesn't eliminate a wheelie if the load gets hung up, it should sure help to keep the front end from coming up too far.
Another good use for the boxblade.

I'm glad this method is working for you. I think I would find it problematic in that my woods are dense and something like a box blade could be an incumbrance in tight spots.

 

[Tkblacktail]

Marveltone, I like your idea of using the boxblade for skidding logs, for a lot of reasons. It keeps the load low, makes a good backstop if the log pushes against you, and if it doesn't eliminate a wheelie if the load gets hung up, it should sure help to keep the front end from coming up too far.
Another good use for the boxblade.

The box blade is a good idea; if mine wasn't as new as it is, I would certainly use it for that. I think the chokers would do "a number" on it.

 

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Trask I've been thinking about this myself. In actuality, yanking stems out of the woods with a compact for the last 35 years, I have found little problem with simply attaching a hook to the 3 pt draw bar and lifting with that. The biggest pain in the neck has not been the point of attachment but what to do with the chains not being used. You want a place behind the tractor to keep them at hand but stored and out of the way. I use a 3/8" grab hook that is able to snug two 1/4" chains. Both are 7' long with one having a slip hook and the other having a slip and grab hook at the other end to be able to "tie" the two chains together if I cannot back up close enough to the stem. Right now I have to wrap the unused chain around the three point arms so they do not get hooked to the rest of the forest on the return. It amazes me how long i can do something that bothers the piss out of me but continue to do it anyway. Whatever design you end up with, have a place for the unused chains.

 

[Tkblacktail]

The draw bar pivot is the fulcrum. The liftarms provide the lift with a shorter lever arm than the log. So the max log weight will be less than what you could pick at the end of the lift arms. Max log weight depends on your geometry. You give up weight for height. Your tractor is about 2650 lbs at the lift arms ( I think ) so even at 2:1 you got 1325 lbs available for the butt end of the log.

You don't have that trade off with your initial design.

EDIT; For reference a 16 foot green red oak that is 24" in diameter average weighs 3200 lbs. 18" dia is 1800 lbs.

I'm reading your post and using my index fingers as a method of understanding the mechanics :laughing:.

I now-see the fulcrum being where you call it at; the draw-bar, thanks.

You entire post makes a lot of sense!

If the boom floats on the spacer bar as it rises and falls; lifting the spacer-bar should shorten the boom's length; bringing it closer to the tractor as it rises, measurably increasing the lift-capability (off-setting the trade-off by 5 or 10%).

View attachment 355060

I got less pressure on the 3 point, most pressure on the draw-bar, and consider lifting trade-offs

 

[Tkblacktail]

Trask I've been thinking about this myself. In actuality, yanking stems out of the woods with a compact for the last 35 years, I have found little problem with simply attaching a hook to the 3 pt draw bar and lifting with that. The biggest pain in the neck has not been the point of attachment but what to do with the chains not being used. You want a place behind the tractor to keep them at hand but stored and out of the way. I use a 3/8" grab hook that is able to snug two 1/4" chains. Both are 7' long with one having a slip hook and the other having a slip and grab hook at the other end to be able to "tie" the two chains together if I cannot back up close enough to the stem. Right now I have to wrap the unused chain around the three point arms so they do not get hooked to the rest of the forest on the return. It amazes me how long i can do something that bothers the piss out of me but continue to do it anyway. Whatever design you end up with, have a place for the unused chains.

Moving through the woods like the ghost of Christmas Past? I'm hanging them on my chainsaw carrier now and they swing from side to side. I also tie them together; if my 3 point is in use, I store them in that 3 point hook.

View attachment 355047

I have added several hooks and 45 degree supports since I took this picture.

 

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This year I just used my 3016 for logging for the first time. What I did find is that the 3 point doesn't lift high enough for my liking. I can understand making a short boom for your log skidder angled upward for this tractor. Although my old JD 750 could not match the pulling power of the 16, it's 3 point actually lifted higher. I was looking at the tractor today and noticed there are 3 points of attachment for the lift arms. You can see them in your pic. I should try moving the arms up to see if they go any higher. That shelf you have must come in handy for chains and of course the chainsaw..

 

[Verticaltrx]

I built something similar a few years back: Building a small 3pt hitch logging arch

I actually set the attachment point for the chains lower than the top link to reduce stress on the top link. The lower arms are much much stronger than the top link and are designed for pulling, the top link is mostly just to hold the weight of the implement. With the attachment point up so high, you are not only pulling entirely from the top link, but also also putting all the weight on it too. Just something to think about, would hate for you to rip the top link bracket out of your tractor.

 

[Tkblacktail]

That shelf you have must come in handy for chains and of course the chainsaw..

I mounted the shelf low enough to reach and high enough so I wouldn't bonk my head.

View attachment 355069 "Shop Floor" materials.


I'll check into setting the arms at a position where they would/can lift higher; another great idea!

 

[Tkblacktail]

I built something similar a few years back: Building a small 3pt hitch logging arch

I actually set the attachment point for the chains lower than the top link to reduce stress on the top link. The lower arms are much much stronger than the top link and are designed for pulling, the top link is mostly just to hold the weight of the implement. With the attachment point up so high, you are not only pulling entirely from the top link, but also also putting all the weight on it too. Just something to think about, would hate for you to rip the top link bracket out of your tractor.

That is beautiful (so glad I asked for wisdom on this thread); I didn't see that thread in the TBN search engine... Your craftsmanship is admirable; especially the right angles and welds, and you took the time to document the process.

My take-away is to measure how high my tractor will lift; make the adjustments Arrow mentioned then mount the pulling point as low as possible (and as short as possible).

 

[Tkblacktail]

So, I'm gonna set this up and use for a while and see how it goes; dimensions TBD.

I'll post what dimensions I come-up with.

The draw-bar is the lower left; I'll use HD clevises for the links, the boom will float on the spacer-bar, perhaps 2 hooks to hold the chokers at the end of the boom.

View attachment 355086

I'll also collect materials for the initial drawing and also add a trailer-receiver.

Thanks for the great discussions.