Bush Hog mod question

   / Bush Hog mod question #1  

Mike9

Bronze Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2015
Messages
59
Location
Ghent, NY
Tractor
Kubota B6200HST-D, Cub 1440, Huskee 4200 LST
Is there any downside to drilling a couple of drain holes in the pan of my Bush Hog SQ48? When I took it apart because the blades were rusted to the pan the top of the pan was full of crud and of course rust. Anyone try this? I was also thinking of fab'ing a cover plate for the blade access hole to keep water out.
 
   / Bush Hog mod question #2  
I think many bush hogs come with a cover plate for the blade bolt access hole but they don't always stay put. I drilled 4 ea 1/2" holes in the deck around the gear mount which allows the water to drain out regardless of how the bush hog is setting. This part of my BH deck is completely enclosed so it needed some drain holes. I do have to keep the area cleared of grass due to the small size hole (1/2" was the largest bit I had).

I don't see anything wrong with putting some holes in the stump jumper if you want to do that as long as you keep them round so they don't propagate cracks. I didn't do mine simply because I hate drilling from underneath which is where you would need to be to get to the outside edge where the upturned lip is and where water would accumulate.
If you do decide to work under your equipment, be sure to safely block it up and wear eye protection.
 
   / Bush Hog mod question #3  
do you mean by "pan" the stump jumper? so the blades were not rotating in relation to the "pan"? doesn't sound right. when the retaining bolts are properly tightened, the blades should should still rotate freely. if you start drilling on rotational equip, you'll want to do it carefully so as not to create an imbalance. my advice is to remove the blades, clean up surfaces, and ensure everything works as intended. if the manufacturer intended drain holes, they would be in place already. apology if i misread your post best regards
 
   / Bush Hog mod question #4  
I can see the logic in fabbing a cover for the blade bolt access hole, & would think that will solve most water collecting in the stump jumper issues. As to drilling the stump jumper for drainage, you'd probably need holes large enough they wouldnt plug with grass and debris, and would be a POTENTIAL place for cracks to start.
 
   / Bush Hog mod question #5  
Those should use shouldered bolts, and I personally wouldn't drill, but a piece of flat 1/8" sheet with a bead of rtv should cover those bolt access holes water tight.
 
   / Bush Hog mod question
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Yes I mean the stump jumper. I got this unit last year and have just brought it down and crawled under - the blades were frozen in place, tail wheel frozen in place etc, etc. I got everything swinging again, but as is my style I did a complete tear down, clean, prime, paint, zerks and rebuild to the unit. I did the same to the tractor an '89 Kubota B6200HST-D @ 290hrs., Kubota 48" rototiller and this Bush Hog SQ48-3 for $1,500 I bought from a friend - it was too good to pass up and worth putting the little bit of money for parts and time into for the years of continued service they will provide. Another friend of mine has a spare slip clutch he'll give me and I bought new blades, safety decals, main cotter pin and lock washers today for $65 (it pays to shop local trust me) then painted those and the old hardware so I can reassemble, then flip and redo the top side. The savings on the slip clutch will pay for a new laminated tail wheel as mine is dry rotted.

Only problem is . . . now I want to go bigger!! Jeeze Louise - does it ever stop? ? ?
 
   / Bush Hog mod question #7  
Yes I mean the stump jumper. I got this unit last year and have just brought it down and crawled under - the blades were frozen in place, tail wheel frozen in place etc, etc. I got everything swinging again, but as is my style I did a complete tear down, clean, prime, paint, zerks and rebuild to the unit. I did the same to the tractor an '89 Kubota B6200HST-D @ 290hrs., Kubota 48" rototiller and this Bush Hog SQ48-3 for $1,500 I bought from a friend - it was too good to pass up and worth putting the little bit of money for parts and time into for the years of continued service they will provide. Another friend of mine has a spare slip clutch he'll give me and I bought new blades, safety decals, main cotter pin and lock washers today for $65 (it pays to shop local trust me) then painted those and the old hardware so I can reassemble, then flip and redo the top side. The savings on the slip clutch will pay for a new laminated tail wheel as mine is dry rotted.

Only problem is . . . now I want to go bigger!! Jeeze Louise - does it ever stop? ? ?

All that work & effort, and no pic's?? Shame on you!!
 
   / Bush Hog mod question #8  
mike 9: sounds like you've done well in refurbishing the hog and that you know what you're doing. will pass on whether to drill moisture weep holes in the stump jumper. given that you've cleaned up and have the blades rotating freely, think you will be just fine! maybe the hog sat for a long time prior unused...but, again, think what you've done is very adequate. in my own case, i just cover it during off season, keep the gear box oil in good shape, lube drive line regularly, and sharpen blades a few time a season. looks to me you're on the right path.
 
   / Bush Hog mod question
  • Thread Starter
#9  
I put it back together today so I can flip it and redo the top side. Pics as requested -

IMG_20161005_130512_zpsesqyr25i.jpg
IMG_20161006_155158_zpsgswyeypr.jpg
IMG_20161006_155209_zpstdk4glth.jpg
IMG_20161011_150618_zpskybw3ijx.jpg

Next step -
IMG_20161006_155251_zpsuednv7s6.jpg
 
   / Bush Hog mod question #10  
I need to do that also,good job
 
 
 
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