Trying to construct a 3rd function

[aerojunkie]

Well after reading what others have done and recommended in this matter I have decided to look into assembling my own kit instead of buying premade. I just need some help with what parts I need. Here is what I have so far.

The valve:
12 VDC 1 GPM OC DA SOLENOID VALVE | Solenoid Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

Subplate:
1 STATION DO3 SUBPLATE OPEN CENTER | Subplates | Hydraulic Adapters & Fittings | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

Connectors (x2):
HIRSCHMANN CONNECTOR | Valve Parts & Accessories | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

Quick connects (3 sets):
Ag Hydraulic Quick Connect Couplers, Poppet Valve, 7/8-14 ORB Thread - Summit Hydraulics

I still need hoses and looked at discount hose and came up with around $150 there. Also need a switch and still researching where and what to get for that. Is there anything else I am missing, or should change? I was all set to order a complete kit.......I just can't bring myself to spend that $900 total for few easy to order parts.

 

[jcummins]

Use a switch for atv winch. Waterproof and can be cable tied to your regular handle.

 

[LD1]

Valve and sub plate look good. Step one is to get it and get it mounted.

Why do you need 3 sets of couplers? Do you have two front end attachments?

Regarding couplers.....you can really use whatever you want. As long as all your attachments are the same. But the 1/2" body couplers with 5/8" ORB thread arent what I would choose. For starters, that would mean you need hoses with a -10 ORB end. And those are more $$$. And 1/2" coupler body is overkill for your tractor (but the universal size for rear attachments).

For my front, I chose to go with 1/4" body size couplers of the ISO b 7241 series. Same thing that is on all my meyer snow plows. So I always have couplers on hand, and can throw any one of my plows up on the FEL and be set.

For hoses, you will likely need one short one, and two long ones.

The power beyond out of the loader, needs unhooked. Now basically you are putting the new valve between the loader valve and that power beyond hose (splicing it in if you will). So you need a short hose to go from your current loader valve to the new D03 base. It "might" be possible to mount in a location that the hose you took off the FEL power beyond will still reach the new valve outlet. (saves a hose). If not you will need a short hose there.

Then you need two long hoses to go from the work ports of the 3rd valve to your front couplers.

The short hose(s) that you are splicing in the valve with, Id go 3/8". For your D03 plate you will need a pair of -06 ORB to JIC adapters.

For the loader hoses running up front, No need to go more than 1/4" IMO. So for these hoses (of whatever length required), I'd get one end with 1/4" NPT male threads (tho thread on a 1/4" coupler), and the other end 1/4" JIC female. To hook into a JIC-ORB adapter at the valve.

But all these fittings and hoses, depends on where you mount the valve. Are you going to need 90 degree or 45 degree fittings to get hose routing where you want???

And if your current PB hose coming off the loader valve is long enough to reach the new 3rd valve....what type of fitting is on the end of it? You would need the appropriate adapter to go from it to the -06 ORB of the DO3

I guess what I am getting at is in a case like this, unless you have installed this setup on that same tractor many times.....dont try to order everything at once. Because the odds of you getting everything you need, to run it how you want, without alot of extra parts....slim to none.

Get the valve and sub plate. Get it mounted. Then see if the PB hose will reach....and what type of hose end it has. IF it does reach...what adapter do you need? Straight, 45, or 90 degree. IF it dont reach....what do you need for a short hose to make it reach.

Same thing with all the rest of the hoses. Wont know if you need straights, 90's or 45's til its mounted.

Cannot help on the button. I went diverter and got a joystick with buttons included

 

[aerojunkie]

Thank you for all the info LD1, your post has been read through quite a few times today by me. My goal was to get just the valve, subplate, and a few fittings ordered. Then measure hoses and order them and go from there. I thought the typical setup has 3 sets of connectors, one set for the grapple end on the loader, and one set to make each connection at the valve so the loader could be removed if needed.

I was looking through Northern Tool's website for some odd pieces and ran across this valve, looks a little cleaner without the hirschmann connectors mounted on top. Just not sure if its as well made as the one from surplus.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200329586_200329586

 

[LD1]

Thank you for all the info LD1, your post has been read through quite a few times today by me. My goal was to get just the valve, subplate, and a few fittings ordered. Then measure hoses and order them and go from there. I thought the typical setup has 3 sets of connectors, one set for the grapple end on the loader, and one set to make each connection at the valve so the loader could be removed if needed.

I was looking through Northern Tool's website for some odd pieces and ran across this valve, looks a little cleaner without the hirschmann connectors mounted on top. Just not sure if its as well made as the one from surplus.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200329586_200329586

Yea, I guess I overlooked unhooking it from the tractor.

Not used to walking through a step by step of a 3rd. With the diverter, and it mounted to the loader, the only thing that changed with the loader removal process is a single electrical plug.

 

[N2DFire]

I was looking through Northern Tool's website for some odd pieces and ran across this valve, looks a little cleaner without the hirschmann connectors mounted on top. Just not sure if its as well made as the one from surplus.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200329586_200329586

Looks exactly like what I used from Fremont Industrial Supply. Valve was made by "Power Valve" - Probably the same one at Northern with a different label.

fremontindustrialsupply.com
D03 hydraulic solenoid valve 4 way 3 position, P open to Tank with ports A & B blocked 12 VOLT DC
SKU: HD-3C6-G02-LW-F-DC12*

 

[oldnslo]

On the directional valve. When it is called out OC does that mean all ports are common in the center condition or are "A" & "B" (work ports) blocked with "P" & "T" common? Also check on the tank port pressure capabilities of the D03. I believe the Vickers DG4V 3 are good to 3,000 PSI but some models are only good to 1,500 PSI or less.

 

[LD1]

"technically" what you want is called a tandem center.

P open to T when in neutral

A and B blocked.

A "true" open center has P, T, A, B all common. Meaning your hydraulics wouldnt hold position (pressure) when in neutral.

But many refer to a tandem center valve as open center

 

[aerojunkie]

How reliable are these solenoids? I have seen quite a few brands out there and since this is the main component in this I should go by more than just price. Any particular brand recommended? I like the simpler look of the Northman but I know Eaton is a good name.

 

[LD1]

Not much experience with cheaper ones. They do seem to be popular though. I put a cheap one on my tractor for my diverter, but it's only been a year.

In industry, Eaton, Vickers, rexroth
, And Parker seem to be the too few