driveway back blade.
- Thread starter docsfarm
- Start date
PILOON
Super Star Member
What works for me is to grade with my back blade going in reverse.
Theory is that your wheels are on a flat surface so that the blade has a flat reference to work from otherwise every dip and bump is magnified with impossible results.
I generally reverse the blade when going backwards so as to have a cutting action but not too much of a bite.
For my final finishing passes I leave the blade reversed but drive forwards at an increased speed. \
The end results are a super nice finish.
Theory is that your wheels are on a flat surface so that the blade has a flat reference to work from otherwise every dip and bump is magnified with impossible results.
I generally reverse the blade when going backwards so as to have a cutting action but not too much of a bite.
For my final finishing passes I leave the blade reversed but drive forwards at an increased speed. \
The end results are a super nice finish.
How long does it take you to do as in your linked thread? I felt like I just couldn't take as much as I'd like with each pass.
Doc,
It probably takes me a couple of hours. I make a pass up each side with the blade set to drag the gravel out of the ditches, then another pass up each side to grade to the center. Finally a pass or two with the blade reversed to knock down the windrow in the center. Maybe a little more touch-up in some difficult places.
But I am just working with six months to a year's worth of traffic "damage" and washes from heavy rains, not several years of abuse as you describe.
One challenge is getting the blade set for each pass. After some years of this I often get it right the first time for each pass, occasionally have to stop to make an adjustment.
I find the horizontal angle of the blade (how much the leading edge cuts into the ditch) is best set by adjusting the top link, which I can do from the seat if I don't get it right the first time. I know some favor using the adjustment to level one arm of the 3-point, but I don't find my tractor has enough adjustment there to get the job done, and if you use that you have to adjust again when you swing the blade to the other side (I only grade going up hill to try and work the gravel back up the hill). After setting the angle for one side with the top link it's already set when I swing to the other side.
I always wait until after we've had some rain because the driveway is too hard to cut with my feeble old blade when it's dry, but also to make it pack better after I'm done. Grading when dry leaves it loose and it quickly becomes washboarded by traffic.
BTW, I just noticed you are in Williamsport PA. My ancestors lived Turbut and Lewis Townships in the mid to late 1800's before their descendants mostly headed west.
It probably takes me a couple of hours. I make a pass up each side with the blade set to drag the gravel out of the ditches, then another pass up each side to grade to the center. Finally a pass or two with the blade reversed to knock down the windrow in the center. Maybe a little more touch-up in some difficult places.
But I am just working with six months to a year's worth of traffic "damage" and washes from heavy rains, not several years of abuse as you describe.
One challenge is getting the blade set for each pass. After some years of this I often get it right the first time for each pass, occasionally have to stop to make an adjustment.
I find the horizontal angle of the blade (how much the leading edge cuts into the ditch) is best set by adjusting the top link, which I can do from the seat if I don't get it right the first time. I know some favor using the adjustment to level one arm of the 3-point, but I don't find my tractor has enough adjustment there to get the job done, and if you use that you have to adjust again when you swing the blade to the other side (I only grade going up hill to try and work the gravel back up the hill). After setting the angle for one side with the top link it's already set when I swing to the other side.
I always wait until after we've had some rain because the driveway is too hard to cut with my feeble old blade when it's dry, but also to make it pack better after I'm done. Grading when dry leaves it loose and it quickly becomes washboarded by traffic.
BTW, I just noticed you are in Williamsport PA. My ancestors lived Turbut and Lewis Townships in the mid to late 1800's before their descendants mostly headed west.
Soldier415
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2016
- Messages
- 693
- Location
- Vermont
- Tractor
- 2001 Kubota L3010GST. 2005 Kubota L3430HSTC
I have 1/4 mile of steep driveway with multiple grade changes. I had a top n tilt installed and picked up a heavy rear blade with hydraulic angle. It is worth every penny. I can adjust on the fly to each change without leaving the seat.
oosik
Super Star Member
I have a mile long, straight as an arrow - gravel driveway. Recently purchased a new Rhino 950 - 8' rear blade. Makes all the difference in the world on summer driveway maintenance. At 1000# its heavy enough to cut smoothly rather than chatter like my lighter rear blade does. I use three implements to maintain my hard as concrete driveway - rear blade, land plane grading scraper & roll over box blade.
BTW - three years ago I added a Fit Rite hydraulic top link. What a wonderful piece of equipment - adjustments made on the fly. Its a true lifesaver.
BTW - three years ago I added a Fit Rite hydraulic top link. What a wonderful piece of equipment - adjustments made on the fly. Its a true lifesaver.
airbiscuit
Super Member
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2004
- Messages
- 5,850
- Location
- NW Wisconsin
- Tractor
- New Holland T2310, Kubota L3010 GST, New Holland TC21DA, Farmall H *** Previously - 1941 John Deere B, Shibaura SD1500, John Deere 850, Bobcat 642, New Holland 1925
Heavy and with a rear gauge wheel. The gauge wheel really helps eliminate the whoops!
oosik
Super Star Member
I now have two rear blades. Land Pride RB3596, 8 ft, 566# - - Rhino 950, 8 ft, 1000#. For my driveway, that becomes concrete after the spring rains - there is little choice. Due to its lack of weight the Land Pride drags along behind and simply chatters. The Rhino also due to its weight, gets to business, digs in and cuts a nice clean swath - no rip, tears, or chattering.
I have a cast cube of cement - 485#. I was thinking of simply setting it on the Land Pride and lashing it down. Many advised against this - the structure of the lighter Land Pride is not built for that weight and could easily fail. Besides the new Rhino is such a fine looking beast.
I've never tried a rear gauge wheel but I can see how that could help also.View attachment 518575
I have a cast cube of cement - 485#. I was thinking of simply setting it on the Land Pride and lashing it down. Many advised against this - the structure of the lighter Land Pride is not built for that weight and could easily fail. Besides the new Rhino is such a fine looking beast.
I've never tried a rear gauge wheel but I can see how that could help also.View attachment 518575