Grapple Grapple needs flow restrictor?!

[sixwarden9]

I just built a grapple for my TC 40A with a 16LA loader. I am using one of my rear remotes to control the grapple. The cylinder is a 2"x6". I need to slow the grapple down to keep it from slamming open or closed.

I did a search for "flow restrictors" and came up with the following post: flow restrictor thread

This post left me quite confused. I would not like to spend an additional $50 dollars on adjustable valves as I am already past my budget. I was hoping to use the pinhole or restricted in one direction valves available at TSC or Northern Tool.

So the question is the same as in the post:

One or two flow restrictors and where do I put them?

 

[beenthere]

It would be great to hear how 'adlertom' came out using the flow restrictor 'washers' with the tiny hole.

I've seen that done, and it works. Just not what I have used because as oil temp changes, so does the speed. Although I will admit that I don't change the setting very often.

 

[sixwarden9]

"It would be great to hear how 'adlertom' came out using the flow restrictor 'washers' with the tiny hole."

My thoughts exactly, I was unsure about creating a new post, but decided to do so because the other post is nearly a year old.

A far as fluid speed and temperature, am I correct in thinking it flows faster as it gets warmer?

 

[MadReferee]

Try reducing the size of the hoses from whatever you have now (3/8" or 1/2") to 1/4". I did this for my TNT and it greatly reduced the speed of operation. The smaller diameter hoses act just like a restrictor and depending on your circumstances, may be cheaper than adding a flow restrictor.

 

[beenthere]

Hoses reduced in size seems like a good try.
Would a reducer fitting to ¼" size and back to the hose size on now, also work? Save some $$ if it would.

 

[PoleClimber]

You can buy flow restricters at TSC,They cost around $7.00 each . You will need to buy 2,one for each side. Get the restricters with the smallest hole . Try it out and if you need more flow just drill out the restricter hole to the next size larger until you get the speed you want. I have done this to my snowblower chute motor and my FEL snow blade turning cylinders and it works fine. This will save the cost of going to smaller hose and you still may end up putting on flow restricters. Be sure to clean the restricters out good if you drill them.

Bernie

 

[sixwarden9]

Thanks for the input so for.

Question:

Should I put the flow restrictors at the cylinder, or at the remote end. Does it really matter?

A little more about my setup:

I am running 1/2" hose from the remote to the a set of quick connects. At the connection I switch to 3/8" hose to the cylinder. I do not know if this helps or hinders. I went with this because the longest 3/8" hose I could get was 8 feet and I needed 16.

Also, I noticed when the grapple is raised all the way it settles a little. Another post had mentioned using a check valve. Could this work with flow restrictors? How do they work? I should probably get my flow right before I worry about a check valve.

 

[sixwarden9]

One more note and question:

The hydraulic flow on my tractor is 9.8 gpm. Do they sell restictors by flow rate or just hole diameter.

 

[MadReferee]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Should I put the flow restrictors at the cylinder, or at the remote end. Does it really matter? )</font>

I personally would put them at the cylinder.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I am running 1/2" hose from the remote to the a set of quick connects. At the connection I switch to 3/8" hose to the cylinder. I do not know if this helps or hinders. I went with this because the longest 3/8" hose I could get was 8 feet and I needed 16. )</font>

If anything it would help. You would be surprised how much a difference 1/4" hoses make. 3/8" to 1/4" makes my snowblower chute and deflection cylinders very easy to control.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Also, I noticed when the grapple is raised all the way it settles a little. Another post had mentioned using a check valve. Could this work with flow restrictors? How do they work? I should probably get my flow right before I worry about a check valve. )</font>

The leak down is from the cylinder. Double pilot operated check valves on the cylinder will fix this problem. Flow restrictors with piloted check valve cylinders are ok.

I agree that you should get your flow correct then worry about leak down as they are two different problems with two different solutions.

 

[PoleClimber]

I keep my restricters at the cylinders. I don't know that it matters . As for check valves I did not use them on any of my applicatios and have had no problems yet. I keep all my hoses 1/2 just to keep away from all the adapters.So far I have a sickle bar mower cylinder a snow plow cylinder and a snowblowerchute motor with restricters on them. Thats all I can tell you, I just experiment and see what works best.

Bernie