Quick Hitches Quick Hitch Options

[GeneD14]

I am sick and tired of wrestling implements as I'm trying to hook up to the tractor. I am thinking of buying a quick hitch attachment to make it easier.
Here are the options that I am currently pondering:
1. Pat's easy change
2. Can I buy a JD I-Match? If so how much $ ?

I have read through the threads on Pat's easy change so I have a good understanding of the pros and cons. Can any one tell me about the JD I-match, pros and cons? Which system is "better? Thanks

 

[Bob_Skurka]

Which system is "better? Thanks

I have PAT's and absolutely LOVE it however, I think the fixed Quick Hitch systems like the JD iMatch are superior. Now that said, I would buy Pat's again.

The main reasons to buy a Pat's system is if you regularly use a post hold digger -or- if you implements that will not work with the fixed width of the iMatch type Quick Hitches.

Not all 3pt implements will work with an iMatch type quick hitch. Before you buy a quick hitch, you would be well advised to measure all your implements to make sure they will work with the hitch you would like. You might find that all of yours will work fine, but you might not. In my case, my RFM would not fit and I also use a PHD frequently, so my choice was pretty easy, I went with Pat's. Your situation my be very different.

 

[GeneD14]

Bob,

Thanks for the advise. I hadn't even thought of how a post hole digger would attach. I would have to take the I-Match off to use a PHD.

 

[Bob_Skurka]

I use a PHD to plant bushes and small trees. And I seem to do it frequently. A PHD is one of the hardest implements I know of to hook up unless you have some sort of a stand to hold it. With a Pat's system, you drive up to the back of it and drop the lower link pins into Pat's hooks (a little bit of wrestling but usually not enough to break out a sweat). You then tip it up and connect the top pin directly to your tractor. I can do it alone, even with an auger bit attached to the PHD and I'm a middle aged arthritic desk jocky.

With an iMatch or similar unit, you have to take it off. Then you have to go through the process above but with the added grief of lining up the lower link pins to the ball eyes, and of course inserting them and getting the pins in. Not too bad if you have the PHD hanging by a rope from a tree.

Make sure all your other implements are iMatch compatible before you buy one! As I said earlier, an iMatch (or even better one of the triangle type Delta or Freedom hitches) would be easier to use than a Pat's system, but you need to make sure you implements work with it, and you are not a frequent user of a PHD.

 

[Hard]

I use a Speeco Quick Hitch I bought at Tractor Supply ($196). It fits with my full size Woods 5' rear blade, full size Woods 6' rear blade, Woods 5' landscape rake estate series and a Woods 4' box scraper. It works great and no more implement wrestling!

I do have to remove it when using my Woods PHD25.

 

[canoetrpr]

My dealer let me try a Landpride QH15 QH for a few days. I decided to return it.

I figured that two brand new implements would be QH compatible. I have a Woods BB60 bush hog which is but my Kubota ballast box was not. I did not want to get into modifying stuff and I also found that being a short guy myself, it wasn't easy for me see the lower links getting hooked - the top of the QH blocked my view.

I plan to go for a Pat's instead. I don't care about getting off the tractor at all. I'd just like something that does not require me to muck around with a wrench to get the lower link arms wide enough to get the hole into the lower pins on the bush hog and have to tighten them up again and so on.

Another thing to bear in mind is that a Pat's will allow you to buy the he odd old implement at an auction without needing to modify it to fit your QH.

 

[3RRL]

I plan to go for a Pat's instead. I don't care about getting off the tractor at all. I'd just like something that does not require me to muck around with a wrench to get the lower link arms wide enough to get the hole into the lower pins on the bush hog and have to tighten them up again and so on.

Another thing to bear in mind is that a Pat's will allow you to buy the he odd old implement at an auction without needing to modify it to fit your QH.

I have Pat's and they are great. Very robust and versitile. Just keep in mind you MAY still have to adjust the width for different implements...depends what you got. Also, you'll have to attach/remove the top link for switch-overs.

 

[canoetrpr]

I Just keep in mind you MAY still have to adjust the width for different implements...depends what you got. Also, you'll have to attach/remove the top link for switch-overs.

I'm assuming that you would have a harder time, if anything, if you had to adjust the width on the lower links for an implement with a non Pat's QH. Can you even do it on a regular QH? Don't think I've seen one that can be adjusted this way. I think you would have to resort to just taking the QH off if this was the case .

The bottom links seem to be pretty regular in their width - at least on my stuff. The top link is where the problem is and once you have the bottom pins hooked up, hooking up the top link just takes seconds. Not much more effort than hooking up the pto shaft (for PTO driven equipment).

 

[Bedlam]

Ive also noticed with mine that the lower pins are all the same but as with yours the top ones vary.This makes the use of the HF quick hitch not work on most of mine. Here is a link to a post about the HF hittch.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79288
Good luck.Al

 

[SPYDERLK]

Quote from Bob Skurka: A PHD is one of the hardest implements I know of to hook up unless you have some sort of a stand to hold it.
Agreed. I have found a convenient way around this that does not involve any hardware. I hang my PHD from the overhanging limb of a tree. I use a nylon motorcycle tiedown with the camlock adjustment so you can just pull it to change loop length. With the PHD suspended from the gooseneck so that the auger and lower links just touch down it becomes a fairly compliant beast. Once you have this setup tuned you just back up to the appropriate spot, lift the toplink connection of the PHD to the top position on the tractor and pin it. This can vary from a little bit difficult to very easy - the swing and swivel inherent in the suspension allow you to accomodate errors in positioning easily. Once the top is attached the lift arms should go right on. Then lift and release the suspension. Youll embarrass yourself if you dont.
Larry