show your homemade splitter pics here

[DiskDoctr]

I went back and done the math agin. when I was posting I was working off memory, which isnt as good as it once was. Yea, I was way off.

The chain speed is based off the rpms X the circumference of the sprocket. The dia of the 12 tooth sprocket is 2.75 xpie'=cic of 8.639 inches. Multiply this times 3000 rpms=25917inches per min/by 12in=2160fpm. A 5000rpm motor would yield a speed of 3600fpm and i believe this to be the number I was actually trying to remember when I originally posted.

Just for info, the dia of the 14tooth sprocket is 3 5/16 or 3.3125 x's Pie=10.406x's 3000rpms=31218 ipm/12=2601fpm and at 5000rpms=4335fpm

I am not sure of the max rpms of the cross motors, the 3000rpms is based on 15gpm flow, you may or maynot be able to increase the speed of the motor by throwing more flow at it, but i dont know how safe that might be or how long the motor would last.

Also, if you choose to use the 14tooth sprocket, keep the bar as close to the sprocket as possible to reduce the likelyhood of chain throw. Use a bar with a width similar to the diameter of the sprocket. A narrow bar will cause the chain to rideup out of the guide rail of the bar and jump off the sprocket. A wider bar will also allow for more ajustability when you start to encounter chain stretch.

Muddstopper-

Thanks for the updated info. I'm glad there was an error in your figuring. I certainly wasn't trying to be know-it-all or anything. I am going based on what I've read- and OPW (Other People's Work), so I was asking about your calcs.

What you posted now seems to be pretty consistent with the other info. I was a bit concerned my info was wrong

I may be looking at a smaller hydraulic saw setup. I'm planning to go see one of the saws "in action" next month- thanks to a very generous offer to allow me to drool over...uhm...look at :drool: someone else's project

I'll keep you all up to date on how we make out!

Thanks again for everyone's input.

- JC

 

[KYErik]

I built this splitter last fall. It has a 4" x 24" cylinder with 2" rod.

It uses the tractor's hydraulic pump and remotes (a bungee cord holds the tractor hydraulic control valve lever in position). I also used a splitter valve that locks in the retract position until the ram is fully retracted (then it kicks out). This 63 gas Ford 4000 has a hydraulic system that is only rated at 4-5 gpm so the splitter is pretty slow, but it worked well on a large blackjack oak (this species has a very wavy grain and is really tough to split).

The splitter I beam is bolted to a 3 pt. carry all and uses a 12v 1000 lb. electric winch and some swivel tipped log tongs (from northern tool) to lift large rounds up onto the splitter. I typically leave the tongs hooked to the large piece as I am splitting it (I extend the cable a bit through the stroke) so that one half is still hanging and can be easily maneuvered back onto the splitter (the other half falls back onto the ground and is picked up by the crane later).

The "crane" swivels 360 degrees. The crane's vertical pipe is 2.25 inches in diameter and thick walled.

I also have a removable catch table (not shown) that "plugs into" the pipes welded onto the bottom of the I beam below the wedge but it isn't strong enough for the huge rounds.

The angle iron strips were welded onto the wedge after I noted that the thin wedge doesn't pop the pieces apart very well. Now, the thin edge of the wedge gets things started and when the wood hits the angle iron it forces the wood apart much more quickly (which keeps me from having to wait for the pusher to travel through the whole stroke).

I used a 1" think 8" tall wedge (from northern tool), but I wish I would have used a 12" wedge (also sold by NT)- that way I could build a slide on 4 way wedge and use it for easy splitting species.

The 1/2" thick moving pusher plate has no extra welded beads/studs on the face to prevent slip of the end of the wood. When the wood's grain was twisted, the pieces would slide/tilt on the pusher plate to relieve strain and this allowed the wedge to follow the grain of the wood. I never had any pieces explode or fly off so I'll likely just leave it this way.

I typically use a jack stand positioned under I beam below the wedge to keep it from putting a twisting strain on the carry all when I have a large round up on the splitter.

The wooden cross beam and large casters were just bolted on this afternoon- they are only for long term storage. I unbolted it from the carry all and rolled it into the storage shed right after I took these pics.

 

[Inter674]

Here's one I built this year mainly from scrap.

Has a Kubota 30hp diesel (cost Au$300), twin 25gpm tandem pumps (cost Au$125), 5" cylinder (2.5" rod), lifting table with seperate hydraulics, 2nd hand (300 buck) elevator etc.

Has a 10 sec cycle time enabling 2 people to cut and load @ 3t per hour, from rounds on the ground. One operson can do @ 1.5-2t per hour.

 

[YesDeere]

Now that's a wood operation!!!!

 

[iahsatcs]

Inter674, I would like to see some video of that!!

 

[uncleaddy]

Here's the one I built. Nice and simple but works great...

 

[Paul Heijndijk]

Her's my log splitter

 

[IC Smoke]

still a work in progress.

thread: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/276243-overkill-log-splitter.html

 

[BethelHntr]

still a work in progress.

thread: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/276243-overkill-log-splitter.html

Very nice splitter :thumbsup:

 

[plumbstraight]

like the ford with the electric picker. Built mine many years ago with the same idea but with hyd winch. Love it. The knife is in a T fashion so it takes two off the bottom leaving the main block in one piece