john deere 260 backhoe ripper

[swick1]

I've just completed the first pass design for a backhoe ripper I'm getting ready to build. I would like opinions on it before I go into production. The goal is to build a better ripper than the brotek that everyone seems to be using for the JD 260 backhoe. I want to be able to cut through roots up to 8" in diameter. To do this I have added large teeth on the back side, a tool steel tooth on the bottom, and a 60 degree knife edge on the front. The pin dimensions may have to be altered some. The mounting ears are 1/2" mild steel and the ripper shank is 1" thick. I did not draw the pin bushings yet because I haven't taken any measurements from my backhoe. It's currently at a job site.

I put a cutout in the middle to give myself something to grab onto that wouldn't be sharp while installing or moving it I think it will weigh about 100 lbs when finished.

 

[acme97]

I like the design so far. I'm looking for something to put on my L35. Some of the one's I looked at had a plate on the backside to prevent sinking in the dirt when you curled and to act as a scoop when you needed to move some dirt. You might want to do that. Will the tooth on front be bolt on or welded?

 

[swick1]

I'm thinking about using hardox 400 instead of tool steel because I have a local shop that can weld it. Tool steel seems to take more care than the hardox stuff, but I don't know how much it will cost. Another idea is to get a scrap cutting edge from one of the heavy equipment repair shops and cut it to fit, then weld it. I definitely want it welded on.

 

[wedge40]

From what I've found you will want some sort plate along the back side of the tooth to support the ripper when prying. Unless the 260 and a huge backhoe.
Check out this design.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/211702-mie-ripper-my-bh92.html
Wedge

 

[swick1]

I added a pin on scoop for the rear. It detaches just like bucket pins. I also stiffened up the mounting pins and moved them forward to allow the tractor to grasp larger objects with the thumb and also to keep the linkage / cylinder end out of the dirt.

 

[wedge40]

Dont know when you plan on starting to cut metal, but let a few more besides me comment.
The only other thing I'd change/add is the horizontal plate that the gussets are welded to.. I'd make that and inch or two wider then needed, then use this as a lip to rest the ripper on for a support frame for storage and mounting. Having this thing sitting stable with hooking up to the backhoe will save hours in the confessional. dont ask how I know.

Wedge

 

[swick1]

I'm also going to build a pin grabber so i can switch buckets faster. This should make the stand unnecessary. I'm cutting material on the 28th of September with a waterjet.

 

[swick1]

I made some more progress tonight refining the design. The hardest part was drawing the backhoe boom and dipper! I added a second optional pin hole for maximum ripping force and less articulation. I also angled the ripper a little to make it fit better without hitting anything. The big box on the dipper stick is a stand in for my north star weld on thumb. The cutouts on the ground represent 1 foot each, so the reach is about 8 feet. The boom is mounted at the same height as my backhoe sits while on its tires.

 

[Green4310TLB]

What software are you using to do your design work in? Looks good. Let us know how it goes.

 

[swick1]

I'm using alibre design professional. It's not as fancy as solidworks or inventor, but it's still pretty good, especially for the money! Alibre - Affordable 3D CAD Software, CAM, Rendering, and Document Management Software

I'm cutting at the shop now.